May 12, 2024
To Saint-Émilion
The cycling portion of Raleigh Does France began today and Leah and Susie were pumped, not a bit deterred by the predictions for daily rain showers. There was a great breakfast spread at Hôtel Life BG, a nice little hotel with a hostel vibe and a very helpful staff. We left under cloudy skies, crossing the Garonne and heading east on the Roger Lapébie cycle path. It was the third time I’ve cycled that stretch along the Garonne, and it was as enjoyable as ever.
We happened on a small brocante just outside Lignan-de-Bordeaux, a must-stop for Leah and Susie. Even I browsed through some of the shirts of display, but we left only with a ceramic creamer for Susie. In no real hurry, we extended the stop with a coffee from the trailside bistrot, chatting a bit with some touring cyclists headed for Toulouse. A light rain started, so we donned our rain jackets and headed up the trail. It wasn’t long before we stopped to escape the rain at the old train depot in La Sauve where we noshed on our provisions. The rain had stopped by the time we left, but intermittent light showers would continue until we reached Saint-Émilion.
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Our route left the cycle path about five miles past La Sauve and turned north toward Saint-Émilion. While stopped at the intersection, we noticed a cat cross the road and nimbly make its way along a fence and onto the roof of a small cottage. But it seemed the roof top was the domain of another cat and a real cat fight broke out - with much yeowing, hissing, clawing, flattened ears, and eventual retreat.
We said good-bye to the cats and continued to Branne where we crossed the Dordogne River and wound our way up to Saint-Émilion. The cobbled streets were filled with tourists and a bit slippery, so we dismounted and found our lodging with only a modest amount of confusion. It was a place I’d stayed at two years ago, a large apartment with a bedroom and a sleeping loft. Leah and Susie headed out for a wine tour while I washed clothes and worked on the journal.
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Our lodging was located over one of the scores of wine shops in Saint-Émilion and our booking came with a wine tasting. The wine tour was a huge success and Susie was game to try some more of the region's vintages, so she and I headed out to for wine tasting and exploration while Leah opted to rest. Though I did not partake in the tasting, I learned a bit more about the various appellations of the area wines, which may prove useful when purchasing wine in the future. Susie sampled four wines and her favorite was that produced by the store in very limited quantities – 2000 bottles a year from less than one acre. It was also the least expensive.
Susie and I continued to wander about the town – hitting the major sites such as La Tour du Roy and the monolithic church and its bell tower. Turning down a passageway, we stumbled into the Cloîtres des Cordeliers, where there was an art exhibit on one of the cloister walls. We met up with Leah at Chai Pascal where we enjoyed an excellent meal and toasted an outstanding first day on tour.
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Today's ride: 33 miles (53 km)
Total: 891 miles (1,434 km)
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