I had a long day planned – a 90 minute train ride to Verona and then almost 30 miles of cycling to Rivalta. My train departed at 11:10, a little later than I preferred but it was the best available option. I’d been staying with Betty while in Bologna and she dropped me off at Christiane’s about 9:30 to pick up Vivien George. After a bit of last minute organizing, I was ready to go, with the nervous energy I always have when I first roll away at the start of the tour. I gave Christiane one last hug, promising to be back in a month. And then I was off, almost….
Bologna is a pretty bike-friendly city, with separated and/or designated bike lanes. These are usually well-marked but intersections often confound me as I struggle to locate exactly where the bike lane continues. Nonetheless, I arrived at the station in plenty of time for a coffee and was relieved to see the platform for the Verona train was on street level, requiring no stairs or lifts. The trip was uneventful and I emerged from the Verona train station into a sweltering mid-day heat. I bought smoothie and found a bench where I watched enviously as children danced about in the cooling waters of a nearby fountain. Then it was time to get serious about this cycling tour.
That's better! Once again I rode off without my helmet, realizing it a few hundred yards up the road when I noticed the nice breeze blowing through my hair. I turned back to retrieve it - but it was not on the curb where I left it. As you can see in the previous photo, it rested on my rear rack as I left and was still there when I got back to Christiane's house. Not the first time this has happened, and probably not the last!
My track out of Verona was pretty straightforward and quickly led me to the Adige/Etsch/VIA Cycle Path that I would follow over the next few days to Bolzano. I made a pit stop at a trailside café, downed a cold coffee, and then headed up the Adige River. It was great to be on the road again, but I was sagging in the heat. I spied a fountain in Belluganso and though the water wasn’t potable it was clear and slightly cool – perfect for soaking my buff. I placed the wet buff around my head and down my back and thus refreshed set off up the river.
There were lots of bicycles out on the Adige, including many touring cyclists who all seemed to be on their way to Verona. Day riders zipped by on light carbon bikes while eBikes were favored by the touring cyclists. There was little scenery along the canal, and little shade as well. I took a break at a small shelter, actually lying down on the bench and perhaps dozing off for a few minutes. I was aroused by Fred and Susan, a Swiss couple on their way to Verona. I felt an immediate kinship with them as Fred was the name of my father. Meeting people on the road always invigorates me, and our brief conversation was just the stimulus I needed to face the big challenge of the day.
A perfect spot for a cold shot of caffeine before starting up the Adige cycle route
I hadn’t really looked at the route map in detail, but did note a rather sharp peak in the profile just past Gaium. It was at that point where the track left the canal and began a steep climb, twisting up through the woods to a small vineyard, and then climbing some more. I stopped a few times on the way up, taking advantage of benches thoughtfully provided at several points along the way. There was a short downhill to Rivoli Veronese where I took a long rest, replenishing myself with a Clif bar and lots of water. Though it was almost five and I still had 8 miles to my hotel, I knew that a steep drop to the river was ahead, one which required me to be rested and on alert. And the rest paid off – though the descent was long, steep in parts and often winding, I took it calmly and was soon down to the roaring Adige River.
Once down along the river I was like a horse headed for the barn – looking for a direct line with no stops. For the most part, the cycle path ran adjacent to the SP11 roadway, but would often veer off through the adjacent vineyards. With about 4 miles to go, I’d had enough with the undulating vineyards route and stayed on the road – more direct, fewer ups and downs, and little traffic. I pulled into the Albergo about 6 pm – one the latest arrival times I can remember.
The Albergo staff was seemed to have been expecting my arrival. A very kind woman who spoke no English showed me where to stow Vivien George, handed me my room key, and said something to indicate the restaurant would be open at seven. After a cold coke, a hot shower, and some serious relaxing, I made it down to dinner at around 8 pm. I was offered no menu, but when I indicated I was happy to have the spaghetti was asked only what kind of sauce I wanted. My meal was brought out along with heaping bowls of spaghetti for the staff. They all sat at one table enjoying their “family meal” together. Periodically, someone would come by to check on me and ask if I wanted desert or coffee. No on the former, yes on the latter. The food was not memorable, but atmosphere and camaraderie made me feel at home - just what I needed after a long first day that was a bit tougher than I expected.
