September 9, 2024 to September 10, 2024
To Paris
With a Bonus Stroll through Strasbourg
September 9, To Strasbourg
Departure day - Suzanne and I were headed off in different directions as we made our way back to our respective homes, or home away from home in my case. Rain was predicted for much of the day and while I was fortunate to be traveling by ferry and train to Strasbourg. Suzanne faced a 17 mile ride to Lindau where she would catch a train to Munich. However, it was still dry when we exchanged good-bye hugs and posed for the obligatory end-of-the-tour photo. There was a short one mile ride to the ferry port before we finally parted ways and I found a bench to awaited the 10 am catamaran that would take me across the lake to Konstanz.
There was no hanging over the rail on this crossing - instead I found a comfortable seat in the large cabin and stayed warm for the 52 minute crossing, Within a half-hour of docking, I’d navigated the short walk to the Konstanz train station, had a mid-morning coffee and pastry, and both Vivien George and I were safely aboard the train for Offenburg. The transfer at Offenburg was easy, except for the out-of-service lift that necessitated a couple of loaded trips up the stairs.
I’d been to Strasbourg many times in transit but had never spent any time exploring the city. This time I delayed my return to Paris for a day, electing to spend an overnight in the city and have a look around town tomorrow. I arrived at Gare Strasbourg just past 3 pm, grabbed a sandwich-to-go at the station, and then headed directly to the Hôtel Tandem, a bike-friendly, eco-friendly hotel just steps from the train station. Vivien George was locked in their adjacent office and I hunkered down in my room for the rest of the day, staying dry and journaling.
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September 10, A Stroll Through Strasbourg (In photos)
I had wonderful night’s sleep at the Hôtel Tandem and an even better breakfast – in addition to the wide selection of homemade organic cakes and pastries made with locally sourced products, there were eggs, muesli, meats, cheeses, breads, fruits, veggies. I think they even cooked eggs to order. It was hard to restrain myself.
I checked out around ten, left the panniers with Vivien George, and set out in the general direction of the Strasbourg Cathedral, more properly known as the Cathédrale Notre-Dame-de-Strasbourg. A small contingent of book sellers at Place Kléber drew me in with their displays of historic maps and used books. I wanted one of the large maps of France but settled on a copy of Courrier Sud, the first book by the French author Antoine Saint-Exupéry.
I did not need a map to find the The Cathédrale Notre-Dame-de-Strasbourg - the steeple soars 466 feet above city, visible from the Vosges Mountains and from as far away as the Black Forest of Germany. The Roman Catholic church was built between 1015-1439 using reddish-brown sandstone from the nearby Vosges Mountains. Though there are some Romanesque architectural features, the cathedral is widely considered an excellent example of the refined High Gothic style of French architecture. The entrance lines were long so I contented myself with walking around the west and south facades, trying vainly to get pictures that fully captured the imposing and magnificent structure.
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The sun began to emerge as I crossed the canal and continued along the Quai des Bateliers. I stopped for lunch at Au Pont Corbeau, a small, family-run restaurant known for their authentic Alsatian cuisine fare. The place was packed and the atmosphere "vivant," with small tables and chattering diners sitting side-by-side. I decided to pass on the intestine dish, choosing instead a hamsteak covered in a tangy mustard sauce, accompanied by fries and a small salad.
It was a glorious afternoon as I continued my stroll along the canal to La Petite France, a Strasbourg quartier characterized by half-timbered houses where fishermen, millers and tanners once worked and lived. Destroyed during WWII, the area has been rebuilt and today is considered “the most picturesque district of old Strasbourg."
My short tour of Strasbourg had been a delight, but was mere scratch at uncovering what the city has to offer. Unfortunately, I had a train to catch. I retrieved Vivian George from Hôtel Tandem and walked the short distance to Gare Strasbourg where we patiently waited for the track announcement for our train to Paris. An elevator took us up to the platform and we were soon aboard and speeding westward across northern France.
I arrived at Gare de l’Est in the afternoon rush hour of Paris and was heartened by the number of cyclists on the bike lanes along Boulevard de Strasbourg, it almost felt like Amsterdam. I made my way across the Seine and in no time was back home in the 15th. I’ll be in Paris for a week before embarking on the last short tour during my stay if France. It’s hard to believe that I’ll be returning to the US in less than a month!
Today's ride: 5 miles (8 km)
Total: 2,239 miles (3,603 km)
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