I'd had a busy week in Paris after returning from Germany. In addition to Scott and Rachael passing through town, my friends Christiane and Betty arrived from Bologna last week and we’ve been gadding about Paris visiting museums and catching a couple of films at the neighborhood art cinema. In the midst of all that, I managed to plan and ready myself for a short tour in eastern France.
It was just past nine when Christiane and Betty waved me good-bye as I set off for Gare de l’Est on the now familiar route across Paris, once again marveling at the number of commuters filling the bike lanes on a weekday morning. Everything went smoothly at the station, other than the fact that I tried to get on the wrong train – the train to Nancy was on Track 26, not 25. I arrived in Nancy just before noon and though I was early for check-in I was able to leave Vivien George at the hotel while I went out for lunch and a look-see around Nancy.
Lunch was at Le 27 Gambetta, a wonderful restaurant not far from Place Stanislaus. Though it was a small place with just a handful of tables, I was seated without a reservation. They only offered two set menus, each with two options for starter, main and dessert. All three courses were well-proportioned and delicious – shrimp starter; fish main, and chocolate cake for dessert. I left happy and sated, but not stuffed.
Christiane and Betty woke early to give me a big send-off
The choice of Nancy for the start of my tour was a bit random. It was not on my radar as a destination city of interest but was chosen for its location – not far from Paris and a good starting point for a short trip through a region of France I’d yet to visit. After lunch, I headed for Place Stanislaus, a place mentioned in nearly all of the restaurant reviews I’d read on the train to Nancy. Entering the grand square was a jaw-dropping experience. It is an expansive space, rimmed with classic 18th century architecture, gilded wrought-iron gates and rococo fountains. The square was built between 1752-56 by the architect Emmanuel Héré under the direction of Stanislaus I of Poland and was the first square in France to be designate a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I spent about two hours wandering the area of Nancy near Stanislaus Place, guided only by my eyes and a bit of curiosity.
Stanislaus Square, with a statue of Stanislaus I and the spire of the the Saint-Epvre Basilica in distance. The expansiveness of the 140,000 sq ft was difficult to capture in a single photo
Nancy revealed itself to be a quite interesting city on both a grand and human scale. I only later learned that the city was a center of Art Nouveau, home to group of artisans and designers known as École de Nancy and whose works are exhibited at the Musée de l'École de Nancy. Similar to many towns and cities I’ve passed through on a bike tour, Nancy is a place that is deserving of a little more of my time.
Today's ride: 4 miles (6 km) Total: 2,243 miles (3,610 km)
