The albergo may have scored points for their geniality last night but this morning's very meager breakfast had the opposite effect. A croissant, two dinner rolls and coffee. There was butter but no jam, so in CB parlance it would have to be a 0 jammer breakfast. A trip to the local market was obviously in order before leaving town. I stocked up with bread and cheese and was back on the Adige cycle path at just past ten.
The cycle path followed a small canal for the first four miles before dropping down to the Adige River at Mama di Sotto. About a mile later I came across BiciGrill RuotaLibera where I was drawn in by the colorful signpost and piles of bicycles filling the racks. I’d not gone far, but it was a short day with plenty of time for diversions. I lingered over my coffee as scores of cyclists passed by, many stopping for a moment and some for a more serious break. I was especially amused by macho men on their mountain eBikes. My only regret turned out to be not eating my chocolate chip cookie immediately but stowing it for a lunchtime treat – the chocolate chips melted in the heat and left a sticky mess in my handlebar bag
Looking down the Adige River as it passes through Rivalta
The route along the Adige River was stellar, a smooth ride through this section of the Adige River sometimes referred to as the Lagarina Valley. Though I was often cycling between the river and the highway, there were enough sections that diverted through vineyards to keep things interesting. Not to mention the alpine peaks, stunning even on this hazy day. Around Sabbionara, the highway crossed over to the other side of the Adige River and things became more serene, just me and the grapes. I admit to being a little obsessed with the vineyards along the route, especially with the method of trellising and training the vines.
The excellent cycle path just kept going and going
Almost twenty miles into the ride I left the Adige cycle route and turned west toward Lake Garda. In planning this tour I’d had mixed feelings about ncluding a detour to Riva del Garda but in the end found that I couldn’t pass up a chance to see such a spectacular place. The wonderful biking infrastructure continued as I made my way through yet more vineyards, interspersed here and there with some hay fields. There was a steady stream of cyclists as well as trailside cafés that catered to the cycling crowd. I passed them by, instead seeking shade at a shrine to Ave Maria. It wasn’t that I felt the need for prayer, she just happened along at an opportune moment.
As the route passed Lago di Lippio, there were multiple signs warning to walk our bikes – the reason was a short steep climb that wound through a tunnel. I obeyed, but most folks stayed in the saddle. Perhaps the Ave Marie had aroused the good Catholic girl in me? I was soon back on the bike and speeding down toward Nago-Torbole where I, and almost every passing cyclist, stopped to take in the magnificent view. Even on this hazy day, it was a view most definitely worth the detour.
CycleBlaze is full of great routes and tales of cycling adventures that provide a wealth of information for those planning a cycle tour. Today, I took a page from the Classen’s Poking Around Europe 4.0 journal describing their two nights at the Garda Hotel Forte Charme in Nago-Torbole. It seemed so brilliant - stay at a nice hotel above the lake and explore Riva del Garda and the nearby towns on a day ride, unburdened by panniers. And copy-cat that I am, I checked into the hotel and enjoyed views of the lake from the panorama decks. For dinner, I walked across the street for a salad and burger, taking one last photo as the sun began to set. A brilliant idea, a brilliant day.
Ben ParkeI’m way behind on reading your journal. I was in this same area a couple weeks earlier than you on my velomobile tour. I made the mistake of visiting the Gardasee on the south end at Peschiera. You seem to have chosen a much better spot to visit it. The cycling infrastructure on the south end is horrid. Reply to this comment 1 week ago
