I woke this morning feeling sluggish after a fitful night of coughing – in hindsight I probably should have stayed off the walls of the Moura Castle. It was to be another day of intermittent rain and cold winds in the 15-20 mph range. I filled up on breakfast and set out for Monsaraz under gray cloudy skies, hoping that splotches of sunshine would light up my day.
Shortly after crossing the Ardila River, I turned off onto the quiet N386 toward Maurão. And as I’d hope, the sun began to break through the clouds and small patches of blue sky appeared by the time I passed through Póvoa de São Miguel.
The next twelve miles north to Maurão were a mixed bag – internal misery countered by uplifting scenery. First, the good news. The gently rolling terrain, lush landscape and quiet, well-surfaced road made for an outstanding ride. I passed across sections the Grande Lago Alqueva, the largest man-made lake in Europe, a reservoir formed by “impounding” the Guadiana River. The bad news was that I was feverish, alternating between being too hot and too cold. A cloudburst hit a few miles outside of Maurão had me limping into the city, wandering through narrow, one way alleyways that are characteristic of many places in Portugal. I didn’t find the hot coffee and pastry I was seeking, but did find a sunny spot in a small park where I nourished soul and my stomach with my picnic sandwich.
The last ten miles included a long crossing of the reservoir and a steep climb up to Monsaraz. Neither was easy. The nearly one mile span over the reservoir included a bike lane separated from traffic with vertical poles. It was a bit intimidating, but I forged ahead until about a third of the way across when strong crosswinds forced me to dismount and walk the remaining distance. Soon after, the route turned off to Monsaraz and I faced the next daunting task of the day - 1.4 mi with an average 7.5% gradient, peaking at upwards of 12%. Feeling weak, out of shape, and discouraged, I pedaled, pushed, pedaled, pushed, and pedaled to a large viewing area at the base of the city.
After a brief rest at the viewing area, it was one last push up the cobbles and into the city itself. I arrived to blue sky and brilliant sunshine, but 45 minutes early for check-in. Too drained to explore the town, I parked Vivien George and myself in a warm, sunny spot across from my lodging. It was bliss -until a chill wind brought in a new cloud cover. In search of something warm, I happened into a cozy and inviting coffee shop, filled with upholstered furniture and cats. I scanned the light menu, not knowing what among the offerings would satisfy my many cravings – thirst, warmth, sweet, savory? I ended up with a decadent selection of Fanta, hot cocoa, and chocolate mousse. I guess the chocolate craving won the day.
The hot cocoa and chocolate provided some warmth and energy, though I was still pretty chilled and exhausted. After checking in, I went immediately to bed, wrapping myself in the duvet I took from the cupboard. Finally, I had found warmth and rest.
