To Luxeuil-les-Bains

September 22, 2024

The day started wonderfully, with an ample breakfast tray from Melanie and warm good-byes from the generous hosts at La Refuge de 3M. Matthew gifted me with some bergamot candy, a specialty from the Vosges, to give me energy to for the big climb today. And then I was off, having routed myself over a steep ridge in the Hautes Vosges to spa town of Luxeuil-les-Bains.

The day was cool, somewhat overcast as I continued on the Voie Verte de Hautes Vosges, following the Moselle River upstream to Ramonchamp. It was an idyllic ride, a meander along an old railroad line that passed through a string of rural villages and communities. There was a quick stop at a wonderful bakery in Rupt-sur-Moselle to supplement provisions saved from my La Refuge dinner and breakfast trays and then a short detour into Ramonchamp, a lovely mid-mountain village known for its brass band, the Ramoncenaise Musicale, that was started in 1907 by workers at a local textile factory. I lingered a bit in Ramonchamp, and then headed up the hill.

My morning breakfast tray was full of goodies!

A great family, and a great send-off. Only the back of shy young Manon's head is visible at the bottom of the photo

A big thanks to Matthew for the bergamot candy

A sign of the limited restaurant options in Vecoux

An ode to the musical history of Ramonchamp

Église Saint-Rémy et Saint-Blaise de Ramonchamp

I hadn’t spent a lot of time planning for this last-minute tour. My pick of overnight towns was a mix of convenience and “places of interest” gleaned from the internet. Detailed route planning was a bare minimum. I wanted to spend some time in the mid-mountain area of the Vosges and had a choice among many designated cycle routes that wind through this region, some more difficult than others. Once I’d decided to cross from the Upper Moselle valley to the Haute Saône and Luxeuil-les-Bains, it was a matter of choosing which track over this section of Vosges Massif might be the least painful – most routes topped out in the 18-21% range, with sustained averages of 8-10%. I gave a higher priority to smaller roads, where I would be more comfortable on the hike-a-bike stretches.

It was a tough climb, with no real switchbacks. Instead, it wound upward with there were short, very steep sections that soon took a toll. I dismounted frequently and then had difficulty finding even moderately level places where I could safely get back on the bike. In retrospect, I probably psyched myself out a bit too much and lost the mental strength needed to stay in the saddle. I’m fairly certain that I could not have ridden it the whole way to the top, but perhaps I could have persevered through some of the less severe sections. And I will admit to entertaining a few thoughts of an ebike. However, there were few cars and the upside of my plodding pace was ample time to look back and appreciate the views, though they were never as spectacular as I’d hoped.

I was stopped near the top, taking another break when Sophie and Maxim passed by, struggling uphill on their lightweight carbon bikes. I soon caught up while they were stopped collecting mushrooms and learned that they were locals out for a weekend trip. We rode the short distance to the top together and then they were off, careening down the other side while I took time to rest and savor the moment.

A look down and across the upper Moselle Valley

Maxim and Sophie, also struggling a bit with the steepness of the climb

More self-reflection at the top of the climb

The backside of the ridge was a surprise and a delight, dropping me into the Plateau of 1000 Ponds. The road gently descended from the top into an open landscape of farms, fields and cropland interlaced with a myriad of cycling and hiking routes. The Tour de France had come through here in 2017 on their way to La Planche des Belles Filles, and cheers for Thibaut Pinot were still visible on the road. I stopped for lunch at a picnic area in Esmoulières, enjoying a little respite before the steep drop to Faucogney-et-la-Mer. The remaining ten miles to Luxeuil-les-Bains were on a flat, boring departmental road with a bit too much traffic for my liking. Better route planning was needed!

Open fields on the Plateau of the 1000 ponds

The plateau is a great cycling area, a bit hard to get up to but the rewards are many

A steep descent into Faucogney-et-la-Mer

By the time I arrived in Luxeuil, the day had become chilly with a forecast for rain. I was about 30 minutes early for check-in, so I strolled briefly around town. They were celebrating Patrimony Days and among the many activities was a small outdoor play, a broad comedy in the Shakespearean tradition, as far as I could glean. But I was tired and too chilled to explore much of Luxeuil and so settled for Chinese take-out and an early night.

Wonderful street theatre celebrating Patrimony Days in Luxeuil-les-Bains

The Abbey of Saint-Pierre-et-Saint-Paul de Luxeuil, originally founded in 590 by Saint Columban

The Abbey and the adjacent Basilica of Saints Peter and Paul

It had been a tough day, but one I very much relished - full of challenges, surprises and self-reflection. In short, another great day on the bike.

Heart

Comment

Link

Kathleen JonesTough climb. The profile looks like a snake that’s eaten an elephant. (Literary reference)
Reply to this comment
1 month ago

Susan CarpenterTo Kathleen JonesCertainly not a hat!
Reply to this comment
1 month ago

Kathleen JonesTo Susan Carpenter👍🏽 👍🏽 👍🏽 👍🏽 👍🏽
Reply to this comment
1 month ago

Today's ride: 31 miles (50 km)
Total: 2,344 miles (3,772 km)

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	10
Comment on this entry	Comment	2

Patrick O'HaraNice work, Susan! You got up into the Vosges!
Reply to this comment
1 month ago

Susan CarpenterTo Patrick O'HaraThanks Patrick. It's a place I'll likely revisit, maybe next year when I have more time to explore
Reply to this comment
1 month ago