Today was one of the best rides of the tour so far, if not the best. And there really is not a lot more to say. The sunshine continued, temperatures were warm but not hot, winds were light, the roads were small with very minimal traffic, the sky was big, the terrain varied, and the flowers were even more spectacular. How can that be? In a word – poppies.
Leaving the N-630 behind in Zafra, I set out on the provincial road BA-160 and quickly passed through the small towns of Puebla de Sancho Pérez and Medina de las Torres. The next ten miles to Fuente de Cantos were pure delight, winding down, up and across a rolling landscape bursting with colors and patterns. There were frequent stops for photos, but none can convey the sheer pleasure I experienced.
Morning in Zafra - looks to be another beautiful day
On a long winding downhill south of Medina de las Torres, surrounded by wildflowers. If you look closely, you might see the road continue as it swoops down and up to the left
I stopped briefly for a picnic lunch in Fuente de Cantos, where a man with two teeth tried desperately to redirect me to the Camino route – I had to tell him multiple times that I was not a Pellegrino. No, I was bound for Llerena on another provincial road, BA-068. The landscape had opened up, with more signs of agricultural activity and an expansive sky that I so love. As I neared Llerena, I entered the foothills of the Sierra Morena where the ups became a bit longer and stiffer, but nothing I would call steep. I soon passed through the Puerta de Montemolín arch and checked in to the wonderful Hospederia Mirador de Llerena where I rolled Vivien George right up the ramp and into my spacious room.
Open roads and big sky - one of my favorite cycling landscapes
Spring haying - I was reminded of the sweet smell and beads of sweat from my days of throwing hay bales onto the back of a truck. Those small rectangular bales have now been replaced by large round bales that no human can lift. I was mesmerized by the automated wrapping these large bales with plastic
Llerena was once home to Home to the Grand Masters of the Order of Saint James and the Order of the Inquisition, and the architectural styles in the old town reflect an historic past where Islamic Mudejar and Baroque styles overlap. I went for a stroll around the historic center to see some of the sites and was once again struck by the crowds of families and children gathering around the town square for early evening socializing. One of my most enduring, and endearing, memories from the last few weeks has been the social life of Iberians played out in public squares where children cavort while parents, grandparents and friends share stories and laughter over a bite to eat, a glass of wine, or a cup of coffee. Not having large houses for entertaining, these public gatherings evidence a sense of community and exhibit a joy in life that has been truly heartwarming.
Iglesia Mayor de Nuestra Senora de la Granadais, or Church of Our Lady of Granada, towers over City Hall and the portal Morales
