June 30, 2024 to July 1, 2024
To Gemona
This was a day I’d been looking forward to for at least two years: 40+ miles of downhill through 40+ tunnels snaking around and through alpine peaks. What cyclist doesn’t love that? Me, apparently, at least not on this day.
It all started with a hard knock on the head. After leaving the hotel, I swooped down a short curve and began to climb a rather steep but short ramp up to the CAAR path. I realized too late that I wouldn’t make it. I failed in my effort to unclip fell over backward with a thunk. My head and shoulder hit pretty hard and I lay there for a few minutes, hoping I had not sustained a concussion. A kind woman and her dog came by to help lift Vivien George off me and I got gingerly to my feet. My initial assessment identified some scrapes on my legs, elbow and shoulders, but thankfully no visible damage to the helmet. I slowly walked up to the bike path, checked the bike for any damage, and took three tabs of ibuprofen. Then I pedaled off toward Gemona.
Though the fall had clearly dampened by enthusiasm for the ride, I was initially able to put it behind me and thoroughly enjoy the first fifteen miles to Pontebbe. However, I was amazed and a bit alarmed at the number of cyclists on the trail – singles, pairs, families, and groups all out for a Sunday ride. It seemed everytime I stopped to take a picture I would have to wait until there was an opening in the near constant stream of cyclists.
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My crowd anxiety increased as the tunnels beyond Pontebba became longer. I had flashing lights both rear and front but not a headlight, which resulted in poor visibility in the often poorly lit, and sometimes unlit, tunnels. A number of cyclists had no lights at all, and I could only sense their oncoming presence before making out a vague shadow approaching me. I was concerned not only for my safety, but for theirs – many had no helmets and/or were traveling with children.
The weather was becoming increasingly overcast, which matched my mood. I tried to keep calm by closely following other cyclists – a group of five Germans on eBikes were a nice leadout for a mile or so but then they pulled over for a rest. I kept going, wanting to be in Venzone as soon as possible. The crowds thinned out after Chiusaforte, many having been swept up by trailside cafés. I began to relax, but then it began to rain.
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4 months ago
4 months ago
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The rain started as I approached Venzone, following a group of six others as we navigated what appeared to be some rerouting, perhaps due to ongoing improvements to the cycle path. As the other cyclists dropped back to don rain gear, I pedaled on, stopping just briefly to stow electronics. Eventually, however, it became a pelting rain and I was forced to retrieve my raincoat from the bottom of my pannier. I rolled slowly into Venzone, past scores of cyclists huddled under café umbrellas until I reached what appeared to be a covered market place, filled with cyclists sheltering from the rain. It was an odd spectacle – the space was rimmed with bikes and cyclists while the interior was filled with folding chairs arranged for an upcoming musical event. I bought a coke from a nearby bar and found a lunch spot on one of the folding chairs.
Once a medieval and historical center, the city of Venzone sits in the Friuli region of Northern Italy on the east bank of the Tagliamento River. In 1976, the region was hit by a magnitude 6.4 earthquake centered near the town of Gemona del Friuli. Almost 1,000 people were killed, with hundreds of thousands injured and/or left homeless. The history of the earthquake and the extraordinary efforts of preservation and restoration of ancient structures is documented in the museuem “Tiere Motus. History of an earthquake and of its people.” The museum is housed the Venzone’s Palazzo Orgnani-Martina and I wandered over after finishing lunch. No one was at the reception desk, though I did see one woman leading a guided tour, in Italian. I hung around the reception area, roaming through a few of the adjacent rooms that depicted the immediate aftermath of the earthquake; however, the accompanying text was only in Italian. Still a bit chilled, I decided to move on to Gemona.
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It was a short distance to Gemona, but one that seemed longer than the remaining miles. My Albergo was at the far end of town and though warmly welcomed I was informed that the restaurant was closed. After a hot shower, I headed for the nearest eatery where I enjoyed my second of the tour pizza.
I had plenty of time to reflect on the day on the walk to/from dinner. I’m still not sure why I was so freaked out by the tunnels, something that usually doesn’t bother me. Certainly the morning fall set me up to be more cautious than usual. The fact that I did not have a functioning headlight was also unnerving, especially in conditions where several people were often coming towards me or following me in the tunnel. Would I do it again – perhaps. But never on a weekend, and always with a fully charged headlight.
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4 months ago
I woke slowly the next morning, drifting in and out of sleep to the sound of construction. At some point I realized it wasn’t construction but a raging thunderstorm. A quick look at the weather app indicated thunderstorms, lightening and heaving rain throughout much of the day. Physically and mentally tired, I decided to take a rain day.
My original plan had been to bike to Cividale del Friuli, where I had booked an AirBnb for the next five nights. Instead, I was able to book another night in Gemona and push back the dates of the AirBnb in Cividale. I spent the day at rest, emerging from my room only for a sandwich at noon and dinner in the evening. I rested, journaled, rested, watched the Tour de France, rested. It was a great day!
Today's ride: 42 miles (68 km)
Total: 1,668 miles (2,684 km)
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