April 2, 2024
To Elvas
Suzanne had chosen a wonderful hotel in Estremoz from which to start our time together – Pateo dos Solares Charm Hotel. It is located just outside the historic center and offers large comfortable rooms, an excellent restaurant for dinner and generous breakfast. And it you’re interested, a swimming pool. It was so nice we didn’t venture outside the hotel until this morning – so I’ll have to return if I’m to appreciate the history and heritage of this white town of the Alentejo.
After four days traveling by car, it was time for Janos and Suzanne to transition to life on two wheels. The weather, which has played such a big role in my tour to date, promised grey skies but little chance of rain until late afternoon. It was just past 10 when the tour’s inaugural photo was snapped and we were on our way. After an initial ~1 mile climb out of Estremoz, the route leveled out and for the next 17 miles were enjoyed a gently undulating ride through cork-oaks, small towns, vineyards and pasture land.
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We stopped in the small town of Santo Aleixo to pick up some provisions, and on the way out of town I had an almost too close encounter of the bovine kind. Both Suzanne and I had commented that the cattle and sheep in Portugal are not the friendly sort we’ve met in France. Rather than approach us with curiosity, they either eye us warily or run off, usually both in rapid succession. There was a small field of cattle grazing on the outskirts of Santo Aleixo – many were close to the road so I felt compelled to approach them for photos. One big mama with a large calf was none too happy with me. She stood and with nostrils slightly flared did a few pawing motions while I snapped away. It was only when I saw the whites her eye that I remembered Miriam’s story of a cow that chased a cyclist on a road near Casa Branca. I pocketed the camera and pedaled off.
As we left Santo Aleixo, we turned southeast toward Elvas and into a bracing crosswind. It wasn’t of the level I’d experienced last week, but was enough to keep attention focused on the road and not the surroundings. A modest but steady six mile climb took us over the autoroute and to the outskirts of Evora, where I was stunned and awed to see the high walls and arches of the Amoreira Aqueduct. I pulled over to wait for Suzanne and Janos, hoping to get an unobstructed view of this monumental work.
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Once we’d all assembled, we followed Janos up to the center square of Evora and split off to our separate lodgings, meeting up again for dinner where we were the only diners on a cold, wet evening. But the curry rice and shrimp were tasty and warming. Though Janos doesn’t believe in toasting with water, we all raised our glasses to a special day on the road together. And to sunshine tomorrow!
Today's ride: 29 miles (47 km)
Total: 306 miles (492 km)
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