I am usually nervous at the start of a long tour, and was especially so today. Not only has it been a ten months since I’ve last toured, my body is feeling a bit sluggish and out of shape. Not to mention some lingering injuries in key appendages. The good news is that the first few days are relatively flat, though they aren’t too short on miles. The best remedy for my anxiety is to just get out and ride – and so the spring tour begins.
The hotel breakfast was pricey, 20€, but it was convenient and came highly recommended by the helpful women working the desk. On entering the small breakfast room, I noted limited buffet options, but each table had a menu listing first and second courses, each with a variety of sweet and savory options. A waitress brought me coffee, juice, yogurt, and a small bowl of fresh fruit, and then indicated I could choose one first course item and one second course menu item. So many options – ranging from a croissant to scrambled eggs with bacon and sausage to a poke bowl with quinoa and tofu! Rather than overstuff myself at breakfast, I asked if the “toast with peanut butter, sliced bananas and jam” could instead be a peanut butter sandwich that I could take on the road. Done! All said, the price for the breakfast seemed reasonable, considering time, convenience, and the fact that I got both a hearty breakfast and a tasty lunch.
El Rocio, a unique town with horses, hitching posts, and streets of sand is a place I’d wanted to experience ever since first reading about Scott and Rachael’s visit in 2019. Subsequent trips by the Grampies in 2023 and earlier this year did not dampen my enthusiasm, so El Rocio was the first stop on my spring tour. The day’s journey could best be described as a three-act play. The first act was characterized by urban landscapes, bike lanes, and more traffic than I enjoy. Getting out of Seville was fairly straightforward, following a series of bike lanes across the Guadalquivir River – twice – toward San Juan de Aznalfarache. Shortly after the second crossing, the route took me south through Coria del Rio on a mix of dirt track, ephemeral bike lanes, and city streets. Traffic lessened south of La Puebla de Rio, and it wasn’t long before I turned off the A8050, leaving traffic and morning anxiety behind.
A friendly local tried to convince me to take the unpaved Pilgrims route that ran between Seville and El Rocio. I listened patiently through three light changes before we both decided it was best to keep with planned route
The next seven miles were a magical ride through natural preserves famed for their abundance and variety of wildlife, though a welcoming sign warning of wild lynx was at first disconcerting. The small road traversing through the Reserva Natural Concertada Dehesa de Abajo seemed to be a stork super-highway – they were everywhere, either nesting, perching, flying, or even poking about the fields. I skirted a small lake teeming with waterfowl, and the air filled with their squawks and sounds of wings flapping on water. There was an occasional vehicle, sometimes stopped on the side of the road to admire or photograph the birds. I too stopped numerous times, inhaling my surroundings and capturing a few photos of the various species of birds and animals – there were storks, of course, as well as a perching hawk, a fishing flamingo, and a blue-billed duck. I even spotted a cow or two.
The route took me through a very small section of Parc National de Doñana, an expansive ~210 square mile UNESCO World Heritage Site that is considered “one of the most important natural protected areas in Europe.” This short 1.5 mile stretch of concrete road was bordered by a small wall, a perfect spot for a short break and a peanut butter sandwich.
Welcome to Reserva Natural Concertada Dehesa de Abajo - but beware of lynx
This sign was a little more disturbing. I admit that a chance encountering a lynx fed into my unreasonable fear of being attacked killed by wild animals
...and a blue-billed duck. I first thought that the blue bill was an illusion created by new sun glass lenses, but google enabled me to identify it as a Ruddy Duck
Scott AndersonCongratulations! Great news that your ankle seems to be fine. Rachael and I were speculating this morning whether El Rocio would be a madhouse scene during Holy Week, but apparently not. Reply to this comment 8 months ago
Susan CarpenterTo Scott AndersonNo, and there was nothing in El Rocio this morning or in any town I passed through today, including Huelva, to indicate it was Palm Sunday. Quite a bit different than last year! Reply to this comment 8 months ago
On exiting the short section of Doñana National Park, I found myself in a flat, agricultural landscape reminiscent of Iowa. Many miles and acres of fruits and vegetables were interspersed with the occasional large beef cattle operations. There was virtually no traffic, and nary another human being save those cultivating the fields. With just less than 12 miles to go, I passed the Venta Moura restaurant, the only commercial establishment I’d seen in fifteen miles. I paused, thinking I might stop for a midday meal - an adjustment to Spanish eating hours that has been embraced by Team Anderson. But I was still a bit full from my sandwich was keen to push on the El Rocio. So I kept pedaling.
It was about 3:15 when I reached the final turn to El Rocio, but mistakenly left the paved A483 for what I thought was a dirt side road. Alas, I was soon trapped in the famed sand of El Rocio, which necessitated dismounting and pushing a few hundred yards until I regained a paved surface. The pavement did not last long, however, and I soon found myself struggling to stay upright as I navigated the deep sand that filled the streets.
I was not surprised by streets of sand, but I was taken aback by the lack of activity. The town felt more like a Hollywood western movie set than an active tourist destination. My hotel was still a mile away at the far end of town, a realization that was both mentally and physically challenging. I finally arrived, tired and sweaty, and called my host for the keypad entry code. I seemed to be the only person inside, and after hiding Vivien George in the laundry room, I found my way up to my room where I cleaned up and relaxed before my 8:30 dinner reservation. I did spot a trio of young folks on horses as I was walking to the restaurant, a reassuring end to a great first day on tour.
Rachael AndersonAlthough we didn’t take that road we were staying in a place that required us to go through a lot of heavy sand so I feel your pain! Reply to this comment 8 months ago
Steve Miller/GrampiesEveryone seems to be staying at our choices. Either we have been coosing good spots, or the choices are limited this time of year. Enjoy your stay. Reply to this comment 8 months ago
A trio of horses and riders spotted on the way to dinner. The picture is a bit grainy, but does document that rumors of horses in El Rocio are to be believed
Rich FrasierI clicked the comment button to say the same thing as Suzanne! Great first day, and I'm glad your foot held up! Reply to this comment 8 months ago
