To Cividale del Friuli - Follow My Heart - CycleBlaze

July 2, 2024

To Cividale del Friuli

Brilliant blue sky, sunshine, some puffy clouds, maybe a little on the warm side but overall a splendid day for a bike ride! I was rested and, with no lingering effects from yesterday's fall, was raring to go.

 Before leaving Cividale, I do want to acknowledge the great staff at Hotel Da Si-Si. The place isn’t the fanciest but they took great care of me, even making me a sandwich yesterday when the kitchen was closed. It’s a popular spot for cyclists on their way down the Alpe Adria, and on both nights the garage was full of bicycles. In fact, it was while loading up our bikes that I met Martin and Maria, a delightful couple just about to finish their run down the Alpe Adria from Salzburg. They had lots of questions about touring in the US and I encouraged them to visit CycleBlaze; they encouraged me to visit and cycle the Netherlands.

 My destination for today was Cividale del Friuli, a UNESCO World Heritage site that lies on the Natisone River, close to the Slovenian border. I happened on the small town with a rich and varied history while browsing the web in search of cycle routes. Based on my findings, it seemed like a good spot to spend a few days of unloaded cycling, hiking, and perhaps some cultural enrichment. I cobbled together a route and set out energized by the sun and looking for something a bit different.

 The first miles were on provincial roads, designated SP, that took me through a string of small town that lay along the western foothills of the Julian Alps. After a brief stop for coffee and a pastry in Tarcento I arrived in Nimis, thinking I’d entered a time warp - it looked like Halloween in July. The whole town was festooned in orange – flags, flowers, banners, and costumed figures. I never did figure out what it was all about, but I certainly enjoyed the spectacle.

A very welcome deep blue sky to start the day
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You say the Netherlands is not all flat?
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A look back at Gemona del Friuli
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Another look back
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The first miles along the SP roads were not very scenic but remnants of castle towers were occasionally seen on the adjacent hillsides
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Passing through Tarcento
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In Nimis - I liked the juxtaposition of the brick and stone walls, not realizing that the orange banners seen in the far right opening were a portent of sights to come
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In Nimis - a town festooned in orange, and the letter M
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Might as well get into the orange spirit! And a window selfie to boot
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I left the provincial highway at Nimis, turning onto a small farm road that zig-zagged through corn “as high as an elephant’s eye.” The clear sky gave me striking views of the mountains, both the rocky peaks of the higher alps of Slovenia as well as the greener slopes along western edge of the Julian range. The route drifted west into the flat valley, taking me through croplands and along a short stretch of gravel on the outskirts of Cividale.

Turning onto the small farm roads that I love
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Creek crossing on an old bridge
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A closer look east toward Slovenia and the Julian Alps
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And another
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Chiesa di San Michele Arcangelo in Savorgnano
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Vineyards of the Friuli
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Transitioning to gravel on the outskirts of Cividale
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Sights along the gravel road included fruit trees, distant hay bales...
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...and a small flock in a large puddle
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I arrived in Cividale around one and took my picnic lunch on my balcony, looking across the Natistone River at the historic Lombard Temple. The lodging was quite suitable, getting very high marks for location and spaciousness as well as the balcony. After a bit of settling in, I dropped Vivien George at the bike store, wanting to make sure she was not injured in the fall. Then it was off to the grocery store for provisions and laundry detergent – oh the thrill of machine-washed clothes. I dined “at home,”  and did a little planning for tomorrow - I was liking the feel of Cividale and was looking forward to the next few days.

View from my balcony
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CiviBank - Gruppo Sparkasse - a modern structure at the edge of an ancient town
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Nearing the historic center of Cividale
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The street where I lived - at least for a few days. The entrance to the AirBnb is the brown door on the right
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Today's ride: 25 miles (40 km)
Total: 1,693 miles (2,725 km)

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