August 15, 2024
To Chablis for Lunch
My first trip to Noyers was in 2015, soon after arriving in Paris for my sabbatical in Carla’s laboratory. It was a memorable weekend that included an afternoon in Vézelay, wine tasting in Chablis, and dinner at Maison Paillot, a Noyers restaurant featured in a 2012 episode of Anthony Bourdains’ “No Reservations.” Later that spring, I brought my Trek 520 down from Paris in a friend’s car for my first solo mini-tour. After two wonderful days cycling in the area south of Noyers, I loaded my panniers for the 29 mile ride to Magny, a small town in the Yonne valley where I spent a few days renewing my friendship with Christine, who I’d first met in Montana in the 1980s. The trip ended with my first bike-train experience, a trip from Châtel-Censoir back to Paris that helped convince me I needed a lighter bike for touring in Europe.
Those few idyllic days cycling around Noyers nurtured a growing love of cycle touring and a desire to return to Noyers with Vivien George. I was especially keen explore the area north of Noyers and to return to Chablis. A lunch date with Carla in the fabled wine town seemed a perfect solution. Carla reserved the car and made a 12:30 reservation at her favorite Chablis restaurant while I planned my route – a longer outward leg through the countryside and a shorter, flatter return along the Serein River. I departed shortly after nine, giving me more than enough time to mosey along with multiple stops for pictures.
It was a brilliant sunny day with moderate temperatures and no wind – a fine day for a ride. I was enjoying myself so much that I missed the first turn out of Noyers, oblivious to my error until realizing I was on the return leg of the trip along the river. A quick backtrack and a short climb away from the river put me once again amidst mown hayfields and open vistas. I continued to happily roll along, stopping for photos at giant haystacks and taking a short detour through the town of Moulins-en-Tonnerrois. The cycling was near effortless and quite relaxing, sharing the road with only a handful of cars and a lone cyclist. I skirted south of Yrouerre and soon crossed into the domaine of Chablis wines. Made from a Chardonnay varietal, the Chablis wines of Burgandy are dry, white wines “characterized by their purity, crispness, sophistication and minerality.”
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I took a short break near Beru to fortify myself with a pain au raisin and send my location to Carla, indicating I was nearing Chablis and would arrive in plenty of time for our 12:30 reservation. I continued on, but once again got distracted by the scenery and went the wrong way at a fork in the road. I quickly realized my error and arrived in Chablis about 11:45, in plenty of time to explore the town before our lunch reservation. My first task, however, was to locate the restaurant, Au Fil du Zinc, so as not to stray too far from my rendezvous with Carla. Before I could do much exploring, Carla rolled into town.
Although we were a bit early, we were soon seated and eagerly awaiting the delicacies to come. We had splurged, deciding on the five course tasting menu that began with three small bites followed by the best of the rest – a confit and smoked tomato, herb and goat cheese dish served two ways. We took our time, savoring each course and, for Carla, a glass of exceptional Chablis wine.
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It was well after two when we finally left the restaurant in a bit of a food stupor. It wasn't long before I discovered that my water bottle was missing, lost somewhere on the way to Chablis. The most likely spot was where I stopped for my break, near Beru. Luckily, I had sent Carla a location pin from that spot, so I asked if she could swing by and take a look – and there it was, right where I’d left it.
The remaining miles to Noyers were generally flat, following close to the Serein River. The absent-mindedness of the day was a little concerning, but I attributed it to not being in touring mindset and instead focusing on the small joys of the day.
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I arrived at Carla’s about 4:30 and we began preparations for a big barbecue that evening. Alex’s brother Guy and his partner Victor were coming to dinner along with two of Victor’s friends from his days at the University of Rochester Eastman School of Music. Victor had not seen Michael and Leone in more than forty years, leading to a lively evening with tales of musical exploits and a little singing. It was a world quite foreign to me, though I did recognize many of the composers, musicians, and works that were mentioned over the course of the evening. And I was quite impressed to learn that Leone played first flute in the Boston Symphony Orchestra and Boston Pops. Unfortunately, she had brought neither her flute or piccolo so we were left with the singing voices of Victor and Michael. In all, a wonderful way to end a day filled with cycling, laughter, good food and great friends.
Today's ride: 36 miles (58 km)
Total: 2,014 miles (3,241 km)
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