To Brive-la-Gaillarde

May 18, 2024

As might be obvious from those who have read my journals, I am an avowed Francophile - though I love touring most anywhere in Europe, France is decidedly my favorite. To improve my communication with the people of France, I started taking online French classes last winter through the Raleigh-Durham chapter of Alliance Francaise. From January to September last year, my teacher was Nathalie, who lives in Bordeaux. A lover of French grammar, Nathalie is/was an excellent teach who greatly improved my understanding of French conjugation, though I still struggle mightily.

Nathalie was always interested in my cycling adventures in Europe and she encouraged me to contact her when I was next in France. And so I did, telling her we would be in Bordeaux at the start and end of our trip and inquiring if she had time to get together. I didn’t expect much, and was floored when she invited all of us to dinner at her house on our last night in Bordeaux. Unfortunately, our plans called for a late arrival in Bordeaux, and we would have to send our regrets unless we could make alternate plans.

Leah and Susie were quite excited at the prospect of dinner at a private home in France, so I tweaked the itinerary and accepted Nathalie’s invitation for dinner. The changes meant one less night in Gramat, traveling instead to Brive-en-Gaillard in order to take a morning train to Bordeaux. Not wanting to miss Rocamadour, today's route included a detour that resulted in a fairly long ride and packed in some hills. But everyone felt the upsides were worth it and we all were enthusiastic about the new plan.

We were less enthusiastic at the steady rain that greeted us as we left Gramat. But there was no time to wait it out so we geared up, said a warm good-bye to Marc and headed out on a route to Rocamadour originally planned by Scott in 2022. The rain slowed to a drizzle, but my bigger concern was that a low cloud cover and mist that might prevent, or at least hinder, our view of Rocamadour. But the mist started to rise and as we descended the steep cliff on the opposite bank, Rocamadour revealed itself bit by bit, draped along a cliff that drops at a 60° angle above the Auze river valley. Truly a sight to behold.

Susie seeks a bit of shelter from the rain

The rain stopped and the clouds lifted, giving us some spectacular views Rocamador draped along the hillside

Due to constraints of time and distance, we did not plan on visiting the religious sanctuary. We crossed the Auze and headed up, resorting to hike a bike as the road steepened through a tunnel and made a sharp narrow turn that led to the Porte du Figuier. Finding ourselves at one of the main entrances to the village seemed like an omen, an opportunity too good to pass up. I watched the bikes while Leah and Susie passed through the portal and took in just a bit of what makes Rocamador such a popular tourist destination. Too soon, it was time to depart. We continued up the hill where we took a last look back at this unique village and then turned north to Brive.

Rocamador was the end point of the individual time trial on the 20th stage of the 2022 Tour de France

View of the village from the Porte du Figuier

We took our time meandering along the remaining miles to Brive, stopping for pictures, lingering in small town churchyards, engaging with other cyclists. It was if Leah and Susie wanted to give France a long hug good-bye before turning their bikes in tomorrow. We descended the causse to Floriac, stopping to visit Église Saint-Georges before crossing the Dordogne on the Pont Miret. After a ten-mile stretch of flat and a stop at a Carrefour for sustenance, we were ready for the last climb up past Turenne. The ride ended with an exhilarating four mile descent into Brive just as the sun broke through, punctuating the surrounding landscape with warm afternoon light.

Through the countryside on the way to Brive

A the little hanky-panky in this bovine herd

Distant cliffs above the Dordogne River as we descend from the causse

We took the time for a long drink of water Floriac

Leah crossing the Dordogne River on Pont Miret

We met Annet and Koan outside the Carrefour where we'd all gone for food and drinks. They're on a four month tour from the Netherlands to Santiago, planning to meet their children for a week in Bilbao

The Château of Turenne looms above the town

As soon as the bikes and gear were stowed, we headed across the street for cold beverages to celebrate our week on the road. Still in our cycling kits, we roamed the streets of Brive in search of pizza, finding a small shop with limited seating and a most genial counter man. We basked in the sunshine, reflecting on the week and all that we’d seen and accomplished. One of the best meals of the tour.

Cheers to France and the women of Raleigh

Heart

Comment

Link

Today's ride: 44 miles (71 km)
Total: 1,041 miles (1,675 km)

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	9
Comment on this entry	Comment	1

Rachael AndersonI’m glad you the weather improved when you got to Rocamador!
Reply to this comment
6 months ago