To Besançon

September 24, 2024

I was leaving the Vosges today and heading down the Doubs River valley to Besançon, a city located on the Doubs River near the Swiss border. It was a relatively long mileage day on Eurovelo 6 as it travels through the Jura Mountains along the southern section of the Canal du Rhône au Rhin and the winding Doubs River – easy miles on paper but there is always the weather to contend with. Today’s mix from the skies included most of everything except snow - alternating episodes of sunshine and rain, always accompanied by strong winds. A challenging but rewarding day.

Eurovelo 6 travels from the Atlantic to the Black Sea and is one of the most popular of the Eurovelo routes, which now number 19. EV6 was the route that first enchanted me when I thought about cycle touring in Europe, almost fifteen years ago. Indeed, some of my first tours were on sections of EV6 -along the Danube from Passau to Vienna in 2015 and a stretch through the Loire Valley in 2018. My approach to cycle touring has changed since then, but on this day I was happy to cruise on the mix of canal ways, dedicated cycle paths, and small roads that comprise this section of EV6.

I left Montbéliard in bright sunshine on a cool and crisp fall morning and settled in to a moderate pace along the Canal du Rhône au Rhin. In short time I came across a touring pair of women, their bikes parked on the side of the trail while they stomped their feet in fallen leaves. I surmised that they were searching for a lost item and so stopped to see if I could help. Nuts they exclaimed or, more precisely, walnuts. Actually they replied in French, “noix,” and extended their hands to offer some of their scavenged walnuts. Anne and Brigitte hail from a small town in the Vercours, near Grenoble, and were out on a leisurely week-long tour, taking two days to reach Besançon.

We enjoyed a pleasant exchange covering the usual topics, but one topic seemed of particular interest to them, as it has been to other Europeans I’ve encountered this year. When told I was returning to the USA in early October, Anne was not the first to ask if I was going home to vote in the upcoming presidential election. Not surprisingly, there is widespread interest in the upcoming US elections and many folks I’ve spoken to are very well informed. One man, when told I live in North Carolina, asked if it was a “swinging state.”

Map of the many canalways in the eastern region of France. In May, I cycled the Metz-Jouy canal along the Moselle with Suzanne, Janos, and Kathleen while earlier in this tour I rode along the Canal des Vosges between Nancy and Epinal. Today's trip was along the southern section of the Rhône-au-Rhin canal to Besançon

Crossing the Allen River on the way out of Montbéliard

Along the Canal du Rhône au Rhin on a brisk and sunny fall day

Brigitte and Anne, munching walnuts on Eurovelo 6

Clouds began to appear as I made my way to L'Isle-sur-le-Doubs, where I stopped in a nice bakery for a hot coffee and shelter from the wind. Anne and Brigitte pulled in as I was leaving and we discussed the likelihood of rain. I glanced at the giant storm cloud heading for town and put on my raincoat – the rains began less than ten minutes later. And then the sun came out, only to be followed by another squall. Eventually, I just left my raincoat on – if nothing else it was great protection against the cold and persistent headwind.

Clouds began to build as I made my way toward L'Isle-sur-le-Doubs

At times the route ran along a small strip of land between the canal and the river

Leaving L'Isle-sur-le-Doubs and about to get wet

There were two points along the way where the route left the river and climbed through small towns before taking me back down to the river. There was a quick up-and-down through Pays-de-Cheval, but the climb to Roche-lès-Cherval was followed by a lovely stretch through farmland and then a sweeping gradual descent to the river. The scenery became more dramatic as the valley cut through the karst cliffs of the Jura Mountains. Fall colors were beginning to emerge and I could only imagine how it might look on a sunny day in mid-October.

The sky began to lighten as I passed by Baume-les-Dames, a possible overnight stop for those not intent on speeding down the Doubs valley like me. Thereafter, I continued through small hamlets on small roads that seemed more like bike paths than public roads. Occasionally, the route took me along the the Rhône-au-Rhin canal on a more direct route across a sinuous bend in the river. Mostly, however, EV6 hugged the river, making for the best miles of the day.

A welcome stretch of blue sky and sunshine

Through the cornfields, heading toward the karst cliffs of the Jura

A happy fellow who I later learned was on this way south from Finland. I wonder if he ran into Racpat

The increasing clouds and rain didn't distinguish my enjoyment

Cows and karst cliffs and brightening skies

A look back gives me hope that the rains are finished for the day

And a look ahead makes my smile even broader

A nice diversion along the Canal du Rhône-au-Rhin

Crossing the Doubs at Chalèze, only five miles to go

Besançon is located in a horseshoe bend in the Doubs river and remained hidden from view until I was less than 1.5 miles from town. The first indication that I was nearing town (other than my route tracker) was when I spied the Citadel of Besançon, a Vauban-designed fortification that is perched on ridge more than 100 meters above the river. I reached the edge of town and headed into a long dark tunnel that cut through the ridge on which the citadel sits. After my somewhat harrowing experience with the tunnels in Italy, I had my head lamp readily handy and affixed it to my helmet. I entered the tunnel and proceeded slowly and was carefully dodging pedestrians when my off-course alarm went off. There was a small pull-out area about two-thirds of the way through the tunnel where I stopped and confirmed I was off course. Oops!

My lodging was a one bedroom apartment located outside the city walls, directly under the citadel. I had been sent entry instructions via Booking, but had a bit of trouble locating the actual entrance to the building. A woman on her smoking break directed me toward a large doorway where I entered a courtyard looking for a door with a key pad. There I met a very helpful young man who not only took me to the right doorway (outside the courtyard) but showed me the small room where I could safely store Vivien George. The experience was one that I believe many of us non-camping cyclo-tourers have experienced more frequently, a trend as entry codes and key boxes have replaced in-person hosts. Some may like this transaction mode, but I always like a friendly face after a long day of solo touring.

I was pretty well spent after almost 60 miles of fighting wind and sporadic rain. I finished my chores and headed toward a small grocery for in-room picnic supplies. I regretted a bit that I had expended so much energy getting to Besançon that I none left for a climb to citadel or to explore the town. I had no one to blame but myself, and so consoled myself by reflecting on the many highlights of my long day on the road.

The Citadel of Besançon, a Vauban fortress sits more than 100 meters above the river. The city is still hidden around the horseshoe bend in the river

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Today's ride: 59 miles (95 km)
Total: 2,443 miles (3,932 km)

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Betsy EvansTerrible flooding in NC. I hope that your home is okay!
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4 months ago

Susan CarpenterTo Betsy EvansThanks Betsy for you and others who have asked.
I live in the Raleigh area my sister tells me that though there has been lots and lots of rain it is not a disaster like it's been farther west in Asheville, in the mountain area of NC. The rains have caused a lot of landslides that have taken out roads and seem to have stranded a lot of people.
I dealt with a lot of tornadoes while living in Iowa, but their effect is more localized, not like the huge swaths of destruction that hurricanes can bring.
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4 months ago