To Bergerac

May 13, 2024

A sunny day! Perhaps the only one this week if you believe the forecast. Our destination today was Bergerac and I had plotted two routes that were fairly similar in distance and elevation. We considered the route that dropped down to Castillon-la-Bataille and followed the Dordogne River into Bergerac but instead chose a route that swung north to Montagne – it was a bit more hilly but we hoped to be rewarded with some nice clear views along the way.

It was an easy ride through the vineyards to Montagne, but a fair bit of traffic thereafter. I made an en route change onto the smaller D17 - it added a few more miles but made up for it in a more relaxed and enjoyable ride. We stopped briefly in the small commune of Puynormand for a water refill and some provisions. Surprisingly, I could find no working water spigot in the church cemetery, something I'd come the expect in France. However, we did find a small convenience store where we had a coffee and stocked up on lunch supplies.

Final checks before leaving Saint-Émilion

The Grand Cru vineyards of Saint-Émilion

The vines of Saint-Émilion warrant tender loving care

I had confidently told Leah and Susie that we could find potable water in every cemetery in France - but it seems that is not so in Puynormand

After our short break, we turned southeast and rejoined the original route in Villefranche de Lonchat where our water quest was fulfilled by animal lovers at the L’un des Sens bar and restaurant. The route continued southeast on quiet roads into a low but steady headwind as we made our way through Saint-Meard de Gurcon, our lunch stop for the day. We dropped steeply down to Le Fleix and passed through a series of small developments near the Dordogne River on the way to Bergerac. The final ten miles were flat, but seemingly endless as the headwinds increased and our bodies tired.

Leah and Susie were thrilled to cycled quiet roads in France

L’un des Sens bar and restaurant - where Susie tried to coax Leah into a game of billards

Cat lover and water purveyor at L'un des Sens

Lunch stop on the library steps in Saint-Meard de Gurcon

In Bergerac, we met our delightfully upbeat host Kti who showed us to our lodging for the night – a large two-bedroom apartment with a terrace and very well appointed kitchen and sitting room. It was an outstanding space. We headed over to the local Casino for after-ride snacks and breakfast fixings and then Leah and Susie went off to explore the town while I did some laundry and journaling. Dinner was at one of the few open restaurants, a small bistro near the square with mediocre food but a nice waitress. The rain began as we headed back to the apartment, perhaps a sign of things to come in the following days. We shrugged it off, content to enjoy a great day of cycling under mostly sunny skies.

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Today's ride: 44 miles (71 km)
Total: 935 miles (1,505 km)

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