Seville

March 21, 2024 to March 22, 2024

Thursday, March 21 - Traveling Day

First, a very big thanks to all those who expressed concern for my injured foot. All the good wishes that were sent my way certainly helped as the injury turned out to be much less serious than I feared on hearing the crunching as I tumbled to the floor. It remains a bit sore, with an expanding rainbow coloration, but there no acute pain when the foot is prodded, poked or walked on. So, I continued as planned and was ready at the door for my 7:45 ride to Orly for my trip to Seville.

I spent three nights in Seville last year during my spring tour of Andalusia. Why go back so soon, you might ask. Or not. I arrived in Seville on Palm Sunday, the first day of Holy Week, or Semana Santa. The day was extraordinary, one full of memories, emotion and amazement, as recounted here. Semana Santa is a very revered time in Seville and throughout Andalusia, and my experiences last spring are some I will never forget. However, the throngs of tourists and the unending processions proved an impediment to fully appreciating Seville and its great attractions. To rectify that, I decided to start/end this year’s Iberian tour in Seville.

I arrived at Orly airport in plenty of time, and enjoyed a nice chat with the Iberian agent who helped navigate me and Vivien George to the oversize baggage belt - I crossed my fingers and wished her a bon voyage. I’d booked a connecting flight through Madrid and both flights went well, though each was a little bumpy due to high winds. In fact, the flight to Madrid arrived more than 20 minutes late after opting for a longer, alternate flight pattern to avoid the wind.

We arrived in Seville around 5 pm, and baggage started rolling around the carousel not long after. But it seemed that only half the baggage was delivered – new bags stopped appearing, yet the carousel continued circling for at least fifteen more minutes as 25-30 passengers grew increasingly anxious – me being one of them! Eventually, everything showed up and a bike-friendly cabbie delivered us to the hotel where I began the process of unpacking and assembling Vivien George.

On first glance, all seemed to be in order. However, the handlebar did appear a little wonky, and when affixed to the bike, it was clear that the right hood was definitely leaning left. I was concerned as cables for the hydraulic brakes and di2 gearing run through the hoods, but a quick check of the brakes and gears indicated they were functioning properly. There was not much more I could do that evening, so I changed my clothes and headed out to dinner, enjoying some nice tapas at a place recommended by the very hospitable hotel staff.

Passing the Seville Cathedral on the way to dinner

The streets of Seville are still lively on my way back from dinner

Friday, March 22

The day started with a test ride to determine the road fitness of both myself and Vivien George. And though the distance was modest and the load was light, I’d say we both passed with at least a B. In fact I changed Vivien George’s grade to an A- after hearing from Matt, my super bike mechanis in NC. He assured me that the hood lean is not a problem, and is easily and quickly fixed. Though he sent instructions on what to do should I care to adjust it, I’m inclined to wait for a bike shop further down the road.

After such a good morning, it was time to treat myself for breakfast. I declined the hotel offerings and instead made my way back to Milk Away, a place I’d discovered last spring. They serve a healthy fare for breakfast/brunch, with a nod to those who crave sweets and/or chocolate. On my last visit, I resisted the urge for pancakes and instead settled for a healthy bowl of oatmeal with yogurt. Today, I gave in to my inner child and indulged in a sinful stack of pancakes smothered in fruit and maple syrup. Delightful.

After breakfast, I meandered back to the hotel, wanting to take in the pulse of Seville as she prepares for the big week to come. Plaza Nueva was buzzing – morning tour groups assembled at their prescribed meeting place and at least two bicycle tour groups slowly filed past. A small but energetic demonstration in front of the BBVA bank filled the air with chants, songs and an occasional blast from siren. It was energizing, but I didn’t linger as I needed to get back to the hotel and give my foot a rest.

A short break during a morning test ride with Vivian George

The Fruit Love pancakes at Milk Away were calling my name

A small labor demonstration - almost like being in France

All things seem in order for Semana Santa, which starts on Sunday

A small, one paso "training" procession with young aspiring costaleros sporting the traditional headgear

Rows of horse and their carriages await the next willing tourist

The Seville Cathedral

The Cathedral of Saint Mary of the See, more commonly known as the Seville Cathedral, is an enormous Gothic cathedral that is one of the largest churches in the world. Originally constructed in 1172 as a mosque, it was repurposed as a cathedral shortly after Seville’s conquest by Ferdinand III. Construction of a new Gothic cathedral began in 1401 on the site of the original mosque – a cathedral intended to be so grand as to have no equal.

I had booked a 2:20 entrance time and arrived at the appointed entrance just past 2 pm. I patiently waited for the posting of my entry time, chagrined as a group of about 30 adolescent girls preceded me through the gates. I made it through another line for my booked audio guide, and began my tour of the Cathedral with the Giralda, the bell tower of the Cathedral. A series of 34 sloped ramps took me to the top level, where I could step up into a window well and get a not-so-expansive view over the cathedral and surrounding areas. The small space was quite crowded and the views limited, so I soon headed back down into the body of the Cathedral.

I found the interior of the Cathedral overwhelming. The enormity of the space, the nave, the vaults, the stained glass and other architectural features were things I could appreciate. However, I am not a fan of ornate, and the ornateness of the sacristies, altars, chapels and all their contents was too much for me. I wandered aimlessly for a bit, my audio guide having stopped working. I sought relief in the open air and found solace in a gelato. I was ready to start cycling.