July 23, 2023 to July 29, 2023
RAGBRAI - One L of a Ride
A Bit of History
In 1973, two columnists from the Des Moines Register set off on a bicycle ride across Iowa, from the Missouri to the Mississippi. The idea began with John Karras, an avid cyclist who challenged his colleague Don Kaul to ride across Iowa and share his perspective in his daily Register column. Kaul agreed, but only on the condition the Karras accompany him.
A route was planned, maps were drawn, and the pair invited Register readers to join them on the ride. Approximately 300 people showed up at the start in Sioux City, with numbers swelling to about 500 on the short stretch between Ames and Des Moines. In all, 114 riders made it to Davenport, located on the Mississippi River.
The daily columns and articles documenting Karas and Kaul’s experiences generated much enthusiasm among Register readers, who clamored and for another ride the following year. The tradition has continued since then, with different routes in each subsequent year. In 1975, the RAGBRAI acronym was adopted (Register’s Annual Great Bike Ride Across Iowa) and Roman numerals were added to indicate the year.
I had not heard of RAGBRAI until I moved to Iowa in late 1988. Within two years, a friend had convinced me to join his team and he even helped me buy a bike - a 1990 Trek 520 that I still have. I optimistically registered for the ride, but as a new assistant professor I had no time to train and eventually bailed out. My bike gathered dust in the garage for the next twenty years
I experienced my first RAGBRAI in 2010. I had just returned from a trip to Europe where I’d spent three days cycling through Burgundy with my sisters. As I enthusiastically recounted our adventures, my friend Cyndy insisted that I join her team for RAGBRAI XXXVIII. It was with some trepidation that I agreed - just 2 short days through the flat terrain of north central Iowa. In contrast to 1990, I had both tenure and time to train. The Trek was dusted off and the training miles accumulated.
Biking through Iowa with 10,000+ spandex-clad cyclists in the heat of late July does not have broad appeal. But I loved it. There was a palpable energy and excitement in all participants –not just the cyclists but also the inhabitants of small town Iowa who came out to cheer us on and showcase their bucolic way of life. Unfortunately, my adventure was cut short on the second day when another rider crashed into me and I broke my leg in the fall – a fractured patella, cracked tibia, and crushed tibial plateau. Thankfully, nothing was displaced and no surgery was required, though the orthopod recited a long list of future activities that I would likely have to forgo.
I threw myself into physical therapy and with the luck of good genes and hard work the knee/tibia healed so well that the doctor exclaimed “Do everything you can until you can’t.” And so I did. The next year, I turned 60 and rode across the whole state. The following year, I completed my first century and received my Century Patch from John Karas. In all, I rode all or part of eight RAGBRAIs before I moved to North Carolina in 2020.
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RAGBRAI L, July 23-29, 2023
The 50th RAGBRAI took place this past July and it was a celebratory event that I did not want to miss. The 500 mile route closely followed the original 1973 route, and passed through my former home town of Ames. I convinced one of my NC biking buddies, Leah, to join me, although we both were concerned at the very, very large numbers of riders that were expected to participate – up to 60,000 on the ride between Ames and Des Moines. YIKES! Still, we forged ahead with our plans.
And and so it was that in late July Leah and I found ourselves setting up our tents in Sioux City, Iowa. Over the next week, we experienced all of what RAGBRAI has to offer, and then some. In addition to the swarms of people and long lines, we formed new friendships and partook of many of the iconic RAGBRAI traditions – a breakfast pork chop, homemade pie, and close interactions with farm animals. However positive these experiences were, the lasting memories of RAGBRAI L will be the heat. On Thursday, a 90 mile day with over 4,200 feet of climbing, the heat index soared to 106°F. Riders flagged under a cloudless sky with little shade, and the SAG wagons struggled to keep up with those needing a lift. Suffering from sunburn, Leah called it quits after 50 miles, yet waited hours for a SAG to the overnight town.
Friday was the toughest day for both of us: 84 miles, over 3,000 feet of climbing and a heat index reaching 112°C. At 60 miles into the ride, we stopped for a long rest in the small town of Oxford where I cooled off in the stream of a fire hose and rapidly downed a quart of chocolate milk. Leah opted to wait for the SAG while I soldiered on for the last 24 miles, up and down the endless rollers of eastern Iowa. But the fun had not yet begun!
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8 months ago
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It was late afternoon before I arrived in Coralville, our last overnight town. By then, Leah had set up her tent and was headed off for the shower truck. I began setting up my tent in an elementary school playground and became vaguely aware of sirens sounding in the near distance. However, it was not until I looked up at the sky that I remembered the significance of sirens in Iowa – they are infrequent and mean only one thing: TORNADO! Just then, people began shouting for everyone to seek shelter in the school. I hurriedly grabbed my shower bag, which contained a set of clean clothes, and I ran, yes ran, into the school. I found a spot against the wall in the school hallway, next to our newfound friends Lee and Doug. Leah was nowhere to be found and we all hoped that the shower truck hadn’t been swept up by a cyclone. Thankfully, she soon appeared and we all waited out the storm in the school, hungry and anxious as to what havoc was taking place outside.
Around 10:30 we were given the all clear to leave the building and told we could spend the night in the school as more storms were predicted in the early morning hours. Heading outside to retrieve our gear, my biggest fear was soon confirmed– my tent was gone! I had staked it in the loose bark next to the swing set and the wind had just lifted it up and blown it away. I stood in the drizzle not knowing what to do, but then saw Leah coming toward me waving a large orange object. She had spotted my tent across the field – it was still assembled and contained most of the sleeping gear that I had tossed in before the storms came. Due to the heat wave we were experiencing, I had kept my sleeping bag in my Patagonia duffel bag where it remained completely dry. As lightening flashed around us, I hurriedly dismantled my tent, stuffed it in my other bag, and retreated to the school where I spent the night on the hard floor under fluorescent lights.
We made it to the Mississippi the following day, with my having completed 530 miles and over 21,200 feet of climbing. RAGBRAI L will linger as the most challenging I’ve completed, and most likely my Last.
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9 months ago
9 months ago
As a six-time RAGBRAI-er from 2006 through 2011, your story today sure brought back some memories: the friendly small towns and the hordes of cyclists walking their bikes through them, Mr. Pork Chop, the hot & humid days, the open fire hydrants, hiding indoors during a tornado warning (in my case I shared a city park storage building with about 40 other riders and a fleet of lawnmowers and other maintenance equipment) etc.
Also, like you, my first century was during RAGBRAI. My 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th too. In fact, I don't think I've ever ridden a century outside of that event.
Anyway, I had a blast there every year, but during my final year I met three guys who included RAGBRAI as part of their cross-country bike tour. Those guys were doing something I couldn't quite fathom at the time, but they sure inspired me to look into this thing called "bike touring." I thought, "hey, that looks like a combination of my two favorite outdoor activities--
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9 months ago
Looking forward to following your next adventure.
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The only thing I could identify with was the start date..July 23..it’s my birthday..However, I know I will never be in Iowa in this month..or summer. Temperatures above 70 and I do not “get along”…
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