When I suggested to the group that we book a two night stay in Hattonchâtel I had envisioned a lovely meandering day ride through the Woüvre Valley, one that might include a stretch along the Meuse River. But in keeping with the consistent theme of this 2024 Spring Touring season, weather threw a kink in the plans. The crew put put our heads together at breakfast to discuss various options for what, where, and when. In the end, Janos went on a solo ride to WWI battleground sites, Kathleen opted for a walking tour of the town and its environs, and Suzanne and I decided on a short loop ride toward the Meuse River in the early afternoon, when the weather was predicted to have improved.
The air was chilly and damp when I met Suzanne in the barn a little past one. Storm clouds loomed off to the west so I immediately went back upstairs for more clothes to stash in my pannier, expecting the worst but hoping for the best. We set off on a small road through the woods that after a few miles opened to long vistas across rolling fields and down to the small village of Chaillon. A steep drop took us into Dompierre-aux-Bois where we puttered around taking pictures, happy that we’d ventured out in uncertain weather.
Not sure what is in store weather-wise, but I'll follow where Suzanne leads
Within minutes after leaving Dompierre-aux-Bois, Suzanne pointed out a large black bird perched on a fencepost to our left. She kept pedaling but I stopped to take a picture, thinking it was perhaps a turkey or turkey vulture. I’d just gotten my camera out when the bird flew off and in quick succession was followed by two other birds that had been blocked from view. As they rose in the air, I saw a familiar silhouette and recognized the red legs and long red beak - was it possible I'd spotted a trio of black storks!? I pointed my camera in their direction and blindly snapped, hoping that I would capture an image that could confirm my suspicions.
I hurried to catch Suzanne and share the news, but instead stopped when I spotted a herd of cattle – I should have an “I stop for cows” sign on the back of my bike. I eventually moved on from the cows, but kept a sharp eye out for large black birds circling overhead. And suddenly, there they were – two large black birds had landed in a nearby field, just at the edge of my zoom range. I snapped a number of photos. I slowly advanced up the road for a closer shot, but they flew sooner that I’d hope. I caught up with Suzanne in Seuzey - a most appropriate town name - and we were both thrilled when the photos clearly identified the birds as black storks. This marked the day as extraordinarily successful, and no amount of weather was going to spoil that.
The weather did worsen after Suezey, the headwind increased and what had been a light sprinkle increased to a persistent cold drizzle. We pulled into Lacroix-sur-Meuse hoping to find an open café or tabac where we could warm ourselves. I was encouraged at first by the size of the town, but was told by a roadside crew that there was nothing open. We tried to shelter in the portal of the town church, noshing on our sandwiches while I donned my leggings amidst the piles of pigeon poop. It was not a pretty sight.
Susan CarpenterObviously it was totally unexpected but very exciting. I doubt I would have recognized them had I not seen one in Montfragüe Reply to this comment 6 months ago
The Lorraine countryside is filled with reminders of significant battles and long sieges that occurred here during WWI. The woods are still scarred with trenches and French and German cemeteries are somber reminders of the cost of war.
The riding conditions improved after leaving Lacroix-sur-Meuse. We had turned eastward, out of the headwind, and the sky stopped spitting at us. I found it to be the best stretch of the day, along wonderful winding road that rose fell gently toward Lamorville. I was having a great time taking lots of pictures, at one point enticing a horse and small herd of cattle over to the roadside to say hello. I ask your forgiveness while I indulge myself with a series of the cow/horse/human encounter.
I caught their attention when I crossed the road and pulled up near the fence
I dawdled a bit too much, not realizing that Suzanne was waiting for me at the turn in Lamorville. At that point we agreed to go on and meet up at the Château – it was uphill from there and I would no doubt fall behind on the climb. In fact, the climb up to the Château was not too arduous, much easier than yesterday’s approach from the north.
I spent a little time looking around the village of Hattonchâtel before passing through the castle gates and putting Vivien George to bed in the barn. As we had a car, we decided to forgo another multi-course meal in La Salle de Burgraves and instead opted for a downhome restaurant in the nearby town of Saint-Mihiel where we shared stories of our afternoon adventures and hoped for better weather tomorrow.
