Evora/Estremoz

March 31, 2024 to April 1, 2024

March 31, 2024

A day off!

Where to start – the list included coffee, breakfast, laundry, groceries, ATM, Evora explore, and putting the rest in rest day. The coffee pod provided by the host resulted in a very, very weak cup of joe, but I bolted it down along with some warmed up naan left over from last night’s dinner. I did a quick load of wash, hung everything up to dry, and set off in search of real coffee and some breakfast.

I struck out on breakfast. It was Easter Morning and few places of business seemed to be open around Praça do Giraldo, the large square in the center of the city. Trinket vendors were starting to set up their wares in the small alleyways off the square, but there were no signs of an open café or bar. I eventually made my way to the Roman Temple where a nearby kiosk was selling coffee and pastries and enjoyed my double espresso and pastel de nata basking in the morning sun. Even with nourishment, I could only muster a bit of exploring before the cold blustery winds sent me back the apartment for a little bit of warmth and rest.

A quiet Easter Sunday morning on Praça do Giraldo

Igreja de Santo Antão and the Renaissance fountain in Praça do Giraldo

Just a few souvenir vendors out this Easter morning

During my morning wanderings, I discovered an inviting restaurant where they fit me in for a lunch reservation at 12:30. By noon, the outdoor tables of Praça do Giraldo had a scattering of occupants and tourists were beginning to fill the souvenir alleyways. As I was enjoying a nice lamb stew, a large party of three families with several children came bustling in. I surmised that the parents had brought Easter treats to disperse in the restaurant terrace – sure enough, the three small boys were soon racing around the terrace in search eggs and candy for their Easter bag.

The Easter egg hunt was the highlight of my day. I found an ATM, but the machines were all out of money. Likewise, no open grocery store was to be found in the old center of the city, as confirmed by the kind staffer at Tourist Information. Foiled and cold, I found my way back to the apartment and spent the rest of the day holed up and warm.

A little rain doesn't spoil the joy of a successful Easter Egg hunt

April 1, 2024

Today was the day when I would meet up with Suzanne and Janos for our long planned tour in Portugal and Spain. Nothing could dampen my spirits- not rain, nor a cold wind, nor even the April Fools Emoji Connections puzzle in the NY Times.

Suzanne and Janos had arrived in Estremoz yesterday, after a four-day drive from Munich - you can read about their adventures and enjoy Suzanne's wonderful photography in their journal Spring in Iberia. The original plan had been for me to bike today to Estremoz and meet up there tonight. Plans changed when they decided on a day trip to Evora to visit with their granddaughter Miriam, who was doing an internship in the nearby hamlet of Casa Branca. A new plan was hatched, one where I would join them for another off-day in Evora and then Vivien George and I would get a ride to Estremoz – it seemed like a sensible idea in the interests of keeping me healthy.

We met up at a big car park near the edge of Evora, and spent the next few hours idly walking around the city and enjoying each other’s company - a trip to “my kiosk” for espresso, literary conversation, and views of the Roman Forum followed by a nice lunch at “my restaurant.” After lunch, we drove Miriam back to Casa Branca where she showed us around and explained a bit about the cooperative program she is working with to rehab some of the old structures and reinvigorate this once thriving railroad town. Miriam treated us to an extraordinary glass of fresh squeezed orange juice straight from the tree, and after hugs all around Suzanne, Janos and I climbed back in the Skoda and headed for Estremoz.

It had been a wonderful day, reuniting with dear friends and getting to know Miriam, a bright young woman with big ideas and lots of energy. And tomorrow we ride again!

Big smiles all around as I meet up with Janos, Suzanne and Miriam in the Evora car park. Vivien George is secured to the Skoda, and we're off to explore a bit of the town

The delights of sharing a meal with old and new friends

Pondering some of the architectural features of Praça do Giraldo

The photographer in Suzanne always has an eye out for an interesting composition

Casa Branca was a once thriving railroad town that has been largely abandoned and gone in to disrepair. Miriam is doing an internship as part of a cooperative working to restore some of the town

An old school house serves as the residence for the group of seven interns now working in Casa Branca

Today's ride: 1 mile (2 km)
Total: 277 miles (446 km)

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Lyle McLeodGreat to see you back together with Suzanne and Janos. Enjoy the next few weeks together. Hope your health improves quickly.
You were not alone regarding the April 1st Connections, Kirsten was not amused as well!
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8 months ago

Laura ChiharaJust checked out your Cycle Blaze today. Looks like I have a lot of catching up to do! Enjoy your long stay in Europe.
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8 months ago

Marilyn MudgeThe Connections comment really hit home… how was I supposed to know that sheep was a ewe? 🥴
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8 months ago

Rachael AndersonI’m so glad you got a chance to rest up and get together with Janos, Suzanne and her grand daughter! I look forward to getting together with all of you!
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8 months ago