June 20, 2024
Day Ride to Dro
The early morning sky showed a promise of blue, but the day turned out to be another hazy day with temperatures uncomfortably warm. No worries, I had a free day of unloaded cycling to explore a wonderful area of northern Italy. I enjoyed breakfast on the terrace overlooking the lake and surrounding mountains, feasting on one of the most lavish spreads I’d seen – they even offered omelets made to order if you so desired. I stuck with my usual muesli and yogurt, supplemented with lots of fresh fruit and date bread. Then I was ready to head down the hill and see what the hub-bub about Riva del Garda was all about.
I retrieved Vivien George from the locked cage where she had spent the night surrounded by eBikes. We sped down the hill, a straightaway that I took more cautiously than most though I did pass a few souls more timid than I. The road steepened at the bottom, curved a bit as the surface turned to cobbles and I was suddenly disgorged into the chaos of a summer tourist town teeming with bikes, cars, and pedestrians, each vying for their own spot of turf. I crossed over to a plaza along quai to catch my breath and then set off in the wrong direction around the lake. After a bit of self-correction I found the bike path to Riva – it was just a matter of following the slew of bikes headed that way.
Travel along the bike path was slow, dodging walkers, dogs, strollers and cycling newbies. Throngs of people were out enjoying a wide variety of water sports and the beachfront was filled with swimmers, sailors and windsurfers. I took it all in, not in a hurry and realizing that late June may not be the best time to visit the popular towns along Lake Garda. I found my way into the pedestrian area of Riva del Garda but for some reason chose not to linger, instead continuing north to Arco.
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2 months ago
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The bike path to Arco followed along busy commercial road and once in town I found a nice park and a bench where I stopped to get a better orientation of my surroundings. I headed on foot toward some nice-looking buildings and then followed other cyclists to a wonderful little square with some sort of Bici Café, as suggested by the filled bike racks and patrons in chamois. I found a spot for Vivien George and took a table, indulging in a Fanta and a piece of strudel for my elevenses break. It wasn’t hard to decide where to go next – I just followed the near constant stream of cyclists – some single riders, some in pairs, and some in larger groups with a guide. I passed through though a lively pedestrian/bike zone and reached the Sarca River where I turned north to Dro.
The ride to up the river to Dro was wonderful, the best part of the day. I stopped on occasion but mainly just enjoyed the cycling and my surroundings. Bliss. The cycle path itself ended in Cienga but clearly marked signs directed me into Dro, a small village on the banks of the river. The bike-friendly Centrale Café looked like a great place for lunch, but I was still full from my strudel and so settled for a cold-bottle of water. The waitress addressed in German, a clear indication that I was nearing South Tyrol.
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The wind had picked up on the trip back to Arco, where I elected to continue along the Sarca River rather than retrace my morning route from Riva del Garda. It was a much more enjoyable route, taking me directly into Linfano where I again made a slight deviation from my morning route and followed the coastal route to Torbole. I was soon in the heart of wind-surfing mecca. The wind and choppy waters delighted those skilled in the sport who raced back and forth the across the lake at amazing speeds. But conditions were a challenge for the less competent whose sail dipped and then bobbled on the water. I empathized those poor souls –I tried wind-surfing once and had to be rescued by boat when I couldn’t figure out how to get back to my starting point.
I eventually tore myself away from the wind-surfers and tackled the big climb back to the hotel. There was one short rest stop after the steepest section then a long grind up, all the while glad to not be carrying my panniers. Thanks again to the Classens. I retreated to my room for some relaxation and walked across the street for an early dinner. Pasta tonight, and homemade tiramisu with raspberries on top. The joys of cycling and dining in Italy.
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Today's ride: 21 miles (34 km)
Total: 1,352 miles (2,176 km)
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2 months ago