Au Revoir Paris

October 2, 2024 to October 5, 2024

Catching up and closing out

My escape from the dreary weather in Dole did not work – the weather in Paris was chilly, grey and rainy. I spent the first few days organizing, cleaning and packing up for my return to the US. Then it was time to say au revoir to my friends and neighbors in Paris. I got my last Paris haircut, made the final visits the cheese shop, bakery and fruit stand, and enjoyed a belated birthday celebration with Alex and Carla. Each farewell was accompanied by a promise to be back in the spring, at least that is my plan/hope.

William and Madame - my favorite fromager/fromagére

A farewell/birthday dinner with Alex and Carla

Carla and Alex - homeward bound on Velib

On my last day in Paris I was gifted with clear blue skies and a city basking in bright sunshine. Weather and circumstance coalesced into the perfect conditions for engaging in my favorite Paris activity – flâneuring, an activity best described as “wandering without a goal…open for everything while committed to nothing.” I wasn’t totally without a goal, however, as I wanted to spend the day on the right bank, wandering through the arrondissements on the north side of the Seine. The metro took me north and the rest of the day was spent slowly making my way back home on foot and bike.

The first stop was Montmartre Butte and the Sacré-Cœur Basilica, located in the 18th arrondissement. I took the metro to the Abesses station and, as is my norm, opted to exit the station via the stairs - not realizing that the station is the deepest in the Paris Métro. I ascended 118 feet up a steep and narrow spiral staircase whose walls were decorated with classic scenes of Paris, a nice distraction from the labored breathing of a young woman struggling up behind me. Once at street level, there was another climb to the top of the butte. I followed signs to the funicular, a mechanical rail car for those not able/willing to climb the 197 steps to the foot of Sacré Coeur. I took the stairs.

The Basilica of Sacré Coeur de Montmartre sits at the highest point in Paris and is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Paris, second only to the Eiffel Tower. Sacré-Cœur has long been a source of controversy, seen by members of the French left as a symbol of the suppression of the Paris Commune, a revolutionary group that arose in Montmartre and briefly seized control of Paris in 1871. It was not until 2022 that Sacré-Cœur was formally approved as a national historic site by the National Commission of Patrimony and Architecture.

You can take the funicular to the top of Montmartre Butte (right) or climb the 197 steps (left)

The Basilica of Sacré-Cœur de Montmartre, the south facade

The white stone of Sacré-Cœur is a type of travertine limestone that has a hard, fine grain that releases calcite when dampened by rainwater, a feature that maintains the white color of the Basicilla.

Bronze statue of King Saint Louis IX atop the porch of the south facade of Sacré-Cœur

The altar and choir of Sacré-Cœur - the mosiac over the choir, entitled The Triumph of the Sacred Heart of Jesus, is the largest of the many mosaics in the church

A closer look at The Triumph of the Sacred Heart of Jesus mosaic

Mosaic of Joan of Arc in the Chapel of the Archangel Michael, also known as the Chapel of the Armies

Leaving Sacré-Cœur, I wandered the cobbled and colorful streets of Montmartre, a quartier that has a long and rich history as a haven for artists – including many renowned painters, performers and poets. The artistic tradition continues today, with many galleries and ateliers tucked into the narrow streets of the quarter. Among the most well-known is the Place du Tetre, is a large square where artists set up their easels for the thousands of tourists that pass through each day.

Saint-Pierre de Montmartre, the second oldest surviving church in Paris

I continued down the hill to Pigali district, home to the famed Moulin Rouge whose iconic windmill had recently tumbled to the ground. I was getting hungry and found a nice restaurant to celebrate my time in Paris with a special mid-day meal: an entrée of beechwood smoked mashed potatoes with seaweed butter and house cured caviar; a main of salmon marinated in white miso with sautéed and steamed greens; and a savory/sweet dessert of grilled cheese and sorbert. All excellent.

After lunch, I made my way toward the Seine, randomly turning onto streets that looked interesting. My wanderings took me to Square d'Estienne d'Orves and the Eglise de la Sainte Trinité as well as past some familiar landmarks - Galleries Lafayette and the Palais Garnier. For the first time, I found myself in Place Vendôme, a grandiose octagonal square lined with neoclassical buildings that now house luxury stores. At the center stands the Vendôme Column, which was originally built to honor Napoleon’s wartime victories and modeled after Rome’s Trajan's Column, another war memorial. During their brief rule, the Paris Commune destroyed the original column in 1871 during “in repudiation of its perceived glorification of national chauvinism and bellicosity.” The decision to rebuild the column was reached soon after submission of the Paris Commune, and in 1874 the replica was erected in Place Vendôme.

My entrée of beechwood smoked mashed potatoes with house cured caviar

Pavillon de l'Empereur, located on the west side of the Palais Garnier

Place Vendôme, with the Vendôme Column rising in the center

Statue of Napoleon atop the Vendôme Column

Soon I was back in familiar territory, strolling among the fall colors of Tuileries towards the Louvre. I crossed the Seine and with a nod to the Tour Eiffel and Palais Royale continued on to Saint-Germain des Peres. The final stretch was by bike, the last two miles of the tour.

A big shout-out to Paris for giving me splendid farewell.

A magical fall day in the Jardin des Tuileries

Bassin Octogonal in Jardin des Tuileries

A look back at the Louvre/Pavillon de la Trémoille from the Pont du Carrousel

Return to USA

My return trip back to the US was fairly uneventful, at least in comparison to the flurry of activity and swirl of emotions that have consumed me over the last two weeks. I left France during my favorite cycling season in order to attend a family wedding in Colorado. The weekend was a great homecoming for me personally, and the wedding was beautiful and joyful - I was thankful and delighted share in the celebration of love and family.

Returning again to North Carolina, I jumped right into politics and have spent most of my time over the last week knocking on doors throughout the greater Raleigh area - stressing the importance of this election, providing literature, and encouraging folks to vote. My days spent cycling around Western Europe now seem so far away.

It is way past time to wrap up this journal. It was another extraordinary seven months of living and touring in Europe, a touring mode that really suits me. There was a bit less touring this year than I anticipated – but the chance to attend the Olympics more than compensated for lost time on tour. And the wonderful cycling roads of Europe will be there next year.

A big thanks to all who followed along, and especially to those whose comments cheered me on, offered advice, or laughed at my jokes. The CycleBlaze community let me know that I am not alone on the road and greatly added to my joy of touring. Until next tour, Susan.

Today's ride: 2 miles (3 km)
Total: 2,487 miles (4,002 km)

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Patrick O'HaraA perfect summary. Thanks for sharing your adventures with us. I'm not going to hold back though on the politics. Hope you get rid of that fascist once and for all!
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1 month ago

Kathleen ClassenFlâneuring! A new word for me and it perfectly describes my favourite way to experience a place. Thanks for your journal. I have enjoyed and learned from it. The first time I work the word flâneuring into one of my journals I will give you full credit!
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1 month ago

Mike AylingI look forward to your 2025 journal Susan.
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1 month ago

Karen PoretTo Patrick O'HaraAgreed totally with you, Patrick! 2 more weeks of biting our nails and hopefully the outcome is what you and I wish for..
On your side, Susan..Well, done and such a trooper always with a cute smile on your face. You are, truly, an inspiration!
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1 month ago

Kathleen JonesWhat a send-off you got from Paris. That city rarely disappoints. Have a great winter, thanks for your electioneering, and who knows, maybe we’ll see each other again next year in France.
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1 month ago

Tricia GrahamThank you Susan for a journal that we always enjoy. We will be in Paris on our next trip next Aug and by any luck we might even meet you
Thank you also for your door knocking. We do not live in theUSA but feel the importance of the election for the whole world and watch with apprehension 💕
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1 month ago

Rich FrasierWhat a great year! I'm looking forward to 2025's edition!!
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1 month ago

Scott AndersonHuh. Interesting that there are so many photos her of Paris than from NC.

Thanks again for sharing another spectacular year with us, Susan. Hopefully we’ll meet up again soon. Good luck, and pray for the right outcome next month.
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1 month ago

Susan CarpenterTo Patrick O'HaraThanks Patrick - fingers, arms, and legs anxiously crossed for Nov 5.
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1 month ago

Gregory GarceauAnother fine journal in the books. Congratulations. And thank you for your important work in that "swing state."
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1 month ago

Susan CarpenterTo Kathleen ClassenI think you and Keith definitely fit the moniker of Flâneurs on Tour
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1 month ago

Susan CarpenterTo Mike AylingThanks Mike
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1 month ago

Susan CarpenterTo Karen PoretThanks Karen for following along and for your always interesting comments
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1 month ago

Susan CarpenterTo Kathleen JonesThanks Kathleen - and it would be super to see you in France in 2025. Keep me posted!
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1 month ago

Susan CarpenterTo Tricia GrahamThanks Tricia for following along. I would love to meet-up in Paris next August. Please keep me updated on your plans - my gmail is susanlongcarpenter
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1 month ago

Susan CarpenterTo Rich FrasierThanks Rich - it was great spending an afternoon with you and Robin this year and I hope we’ll have time to do a little cycling together in 2025
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1 month ago

Karen PoretTo Susan CarpenterOh, oh…. “ interesting comments”.. hopefully not thoughts of .. not her again 😮
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1 month ago

Susan CarpenterTo Scott AndersonThanks Scott -Cary NC is definitely not Paris! But right now it seems an important place to be. I am definitely hoping/looking forward to a meet up with you and Rachael this winter. Enjoy the rest of your time in Europe and safe travels home.
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1 month ago

Rachael AndersonWhat a great way to spend your last day in Paris! You sure packed in a wide variety of experiences in 7 months.
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4 weeks ago

Betsy EvansThanks for taking us along! And extra thanks for door-knocking in a state where it really matters.
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4 weeks ago

Suzanne GibsonWhat a year, Susan! I am so happy that Janos and I got to spend part of it touring with you - in Spain, Portugal, France and Germany! Thanks for being such a wonderful traveling buddy. We have to make that happen next year, too. And as others have mentioned, thanks for your pre-election work. The outcome makes a difference to all of us.
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4 weeks ago

Jacquie GaudetWhat a trip! Maybe we will manage a titanium bike meetup next year in France. The tentative plan is the Alps in June, with a May warm-up perhaps in the Vercours.
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4 weeks ago

Susan CarpenterTo Gregory GarceauThanks Greg - and let’s hope the canvassing helps swing the state blue.
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4 weeks ago

Susan CarpenterTo Rachael AndersonIt was a full year! About the only thing missing was cycling with you and Scott!
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4 weeks ago

Susan CarpenterTo Betsy EvansThanks Betsy for following along
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4 weeks ago

Susan CarpenterTo Suzanne GibsonThanks Suzanne for all your support and for joining up for some fantastic cycling trips - touring with you and Janos was definitely a highlight of the year. I’m looking forward to where our travels will take us in 2025! As far as the election - I am just putting all my nervous energy into doing the little things I can and hoping it makes a difference.
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4 weeks ago

Susan CarpenterTo Jacquie GaudetThanks for following along Jacquie. The Vercours and Alps are definitely on my radar for next year so there is a strong possibility that we can make the titanium meetup a reality! Let’s keep in touch
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4 weeks ago

Laura ChiharaThanks for writing about your cycling experience this past year. Hope more is in store for you in 2025!
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3 weeks ago

Susan CarpenterTo Laura ChiharaThanks for following along Laura. I hope you had a good cycling summer and are enjoying your retirement
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3 weeks ago

Carolyn van HoeveLoved following your travels this year Susan which have given me lots more ideas for places to go, including the ones that we already employed on our trip. Thanks again for your train advice which we were so grateful for. Like Kathleen, the word Flâneuring is a perfect description of what we love to do in Paris too.
And good luck with your canvassing, the rest of the world is looking on very anxiously.
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2 weeks ago