I’ve been on a whirlwind schedule since returning from Burgundy two weeks ago: a week on the Mediterranean in Sète and five days on the northern coast of France in Normandy and Brittany. There is a lot to report from each visit, but little time to catch up before leaving for Germany to meet up with Suzanne for a tour in the Allagäu. Before moving on, I’ll give a brief, mostly pictorial, madcap recap of my madcap trips the coasts of France. Spoiler alert: photo dump ahead.
Sète – Aug 19-25
I first met Christine in Montana back in the mid-80s when her then husband and I were postdocs in the same NIH laboratory. We rekindled our friendship in 2015 during my sabbatical, and since then have managed to get together at least once during my visits to France. This year, we spent a delightful week at her condo in Sète, the highlights of which were a Cycle Blaze meet-up with Rich and Robin Frasier and canal-side seats at the Fête de Saint-Louis.
First on the list of things to do in Sète is a visit to Cyril, owner of the best fish stall in the Sète Market. The red tuna was divine.
The Port of Sète - viewed on our way up to the Musée Paul Valery to see a special exhibit by the painter Jean Hugo, grandson of the French writer Victor Hugo
A ceremony held to commemorate the 80th Aniversary of the liberation of Sète during WWII included wreaths placed at the foot of the Memorial by relatives of fallen soldiers. The event was sparsely attended, mostly by relatives and/or white-haired veterans who stood tall in salute, proudly displaying their medals. I was moved to tears, reflecting on the significance of the liberation and recalling my father, a WWII veteran.
The Royal Canal in Sète is the site of the Tournois de Joutes, a yearly event held since the canal was opened in 1666. It is the main event during the Fête de la Saint-Louis, which also includes concerts, fireworks and all-round merriment.
The boats approach each other, the jousters perched atop a long platform that extends from the rear of the boat. Each jouster is armed with a long lance and small shield
As they approach, other contestants sitting in the rear of the boat for ballast cover their heads for protection, lest one of the jouster falls their way
Later that night, the crowded gathered for what I would call a mini-parade, featuring a woman atop a large white horse led by a pack of white wolf-like creatures. The parade wound along the Quai, with spectators following along behind
As I’ve mentioned before, I’ve been taking online French classes through Alliance Francais in Raleigh. One of my classmates, Ellen, told me she had signed up for a September tour of France with Overseas Adventure Travel and would be in Paris for a few days before the tour began. I immediately said I would welcome her to my adopted city and before I knew it we had planned a trip to Normandy and Brittany. A number of iterations and adjustments were made to squeeze the trip in between Sète and Germany and we managed to spend five wonderful days in Mont-Saint-Michele and Saint-Malo.
Both stops were filled with lots of fantastic meals and walking in/along the sea. Highlights of Mont Saint-Michel included a morning walk in the bay and a memorable tour of the Abbaye de Mont Saint-Michele that took us into the crypts and other areas normally closed to visitors.
Our first look at Mont-Saint-Michel - we had arrived by train from Paris and took a late afternoon walk on the causeway for out first vist to the island
One woman sunk a little too deep in the quicksand and had to be dragged out by her husband and guide. She was from Italy and may not have fully understood the French guide - or perhaps she was a just a bit more daring
Archangel Michael, the inspiration and namesake of the Abbaye of Mont Saint-Michel. The guided tour of the Abbaye was wonderful in giving access to the crypts, but moved a little too fast for wandering about and taking pictures
We had two full days in Saint-Malo, but spent little time in the center city. A day trip to Dinard topped the list of our adventures, followed by a seaside lunch and an exploration of La Cité d’Alet peninsula located across the bay.
Some of the Belle Epoch mansions built by wealth English and Americans. Alfred Hitchcock spent time here and one of these houses was said to have been his inspiration for his film "Psycho"
The La Cité d'Alet peninsula has long been a strategic defensive position. The Fort de la Cité d'Alet was built in the mid-18th century and was a German base during WWIi. The Memorial 39-45 housed in one of the German bunkers depicts the depicts the history and liberation of St-Malo's during WWII
I returned to Paris just as the Paralympics were set to begin – and my train was delayed due to sabotage on the electric lines between Saint-Malo and Rennes. I had about 36 hours to get a haircut, do laundry, and pack up Vivien George for a weeklong tour with Suzanne in the Allgaü. Not to mention finishing up this recap post. Missions accomplished!
