I woke this morning tired, too awake to go fall back asleep but feeling sluggish after a whirlwind day in Trieste. It was another hazy day with rising temperatures – summer was definitely settling in with higher temperatures and increased humidity. Feeling a bit of summer sluggishness, I considered a lay-about day, or maybe visiting one or two of the historic sites in Cividale. But I recalled that my motivation for coming to here was for the cycling. Suddenly I was energized. I put the kibosh my morning apathy, had a quick breakfast, and by 7:30 was off on a morning ride up the Natisone River.
The route was another of the PisteCicilabili tracks, one that followed the river almost thirteen miles to the Slovenian border. It started on a gravel track along the river - a bit rougher than I’d expected but I managed to avoid the bigger ruts and was soon on a double-track farm road winding through hayfields. Rays of sunshine began to poke through the clouds and I was grateful to have vanquished the doldrums and embarked on a very fine morning ride.
After almost four miles I was back on pavement and crossing the Natisone River at Ponte San Quirino. The route turned off onto a small road that ran parallel to the state highway on the opposite side of the river, a traffic-free road with just a few cyclists heading north. I cruised up the valley, passing through small towns with both Italian and Slovenian names, stopping occasionally for a picture or a water bottle refill. But mostly I was just delighting in being out on Vivien George on a summer morning in Italy. Sometimes while touring I forget how much fun it is to just ride my bike, especially when she's pannier-free.
The quiet road ended just past Pulfero where it crossed the river and joined the larger SS54 highway. There were still three miles before the Slovenian border, but reaching the border was not an important goal. So I turned around and set off for a relaxing return ride to Cividale.
It was my last day Cividale and I’d not really enjoyed a nice meal out, instead contenting myself with grab and go meals from the nearby bakery or grocery store. Not today - instead opting for a wonderful mid-day meal at a restaurant specializing in seafood. First course was an inspired potato mousse with grilled shrimp followed by monk fish à la Mediterranean. I left thinking I should definitely be eating out more often! The afternoon was spent planning the rest of the tour: biking west along the base of the Dolomites to Bassano del Grappa and then up the Brenta River to Trento, from where I’ll train it back to Bologna. When complete, it will have made for a nice loop tour of Northern Italy and parts of Southern Austria.
I didn't know what to expect when I ordered potato mousse with grilled shrimp - it was light, airy and oh so delicious
