Zeeland is the westernmost province of the Netherlands, consisting of islands and peninsulas located at the mouth of several major European rivers - the Scheldt, the Rhine and the Meuse. Large parts of Zeeland are below sea level, and historically the land was reclaimed by creating man-made hills connected by dikes. A major North Sea flood in 1953 caused severe flooding throughout Zeeland and beyond, resulting in over 1,800 deaths in the Netherlands. After the 1953 flood, the Netherlands sought long-term solutions that would protect them against future floods. An outcome of those efforts is the Delta Works, a series of dams, sluices, and storm surge barriers that the American Society of Civil Engineers declared to be one of the Seven Wonders of the Modern World.
One of the most striking achievements of the Delta Works is the Eastern Scheldt Storm Surge Barrier (Oosterscheldekering), which separates the North Sea from the Eastern Scheldt (Oosterschelde). Lying between the islands of the islands of Noord-Beveland and Schouwen-Duiveland, the barrier comprises a system of 62 giant sluice gates that are normally kept open, but can be ompletely closed in adverse weather, protecting the Netherlands from North Sea storm surges and flooding. The artificial island Neeltje Jans, located in the estuary halfway between Noord-Beveland and Schouwen-Duiveland, was built to facilitate the construction of the Storm Surge Barrier, and all three islands are connected by a roadway and pedestrian/cycleway that traverse alongside the barrier gates.
As part of the Delta Works plan, the Eastern Scheldt estuary was closed off and in May, 2008 was designated as a National Park, the largest national park in the Netherlands. It is an environment of wind, sea, mudflats and salt marshes, replete with a range of wildlife from sea birds to porpoises. I was thrilled when Eddy proposed an outing to Zeeland to cycle around the islands and across the Delta Works, a trip they typically make once or twice a year. It was a bit far from Geel, but the opportunity to see and experience one of the Seven Wonders of the Modern World was something I could not pass up. Our planned ride was essentially a half-loop the Zeeuwse Wind Route, a 126 km cycling loop that connects several of Zeeland’s small islands, crossing both the Delta Works Storm Surge Barrier and the Zeelander Bridge.
It was an extraordinary day and I’ll let pictures tell much of story.
Zeeland, indicated in red, is a group of islands and peninsulas located in the southwestern corner of the Netherlands (indicated in yellow)
Map of the Delta Works in Zeelander. Our loop ride around the Oosterschelde (Eastern Scheldt) started at the southern end of the Zeelander Bridge, headed west along the southern shore of the Oosterschelde and across the Oosterscheldekering Storm Surge Barrier, then circled back along the northern shore of the Oosterschelde and finally crossed over the Zeelander Bridge, returning to the start
Eddy and Ria heading east along the northern shore Noord-Beveland island, south of the Oosterschelde. The white sluice gate towers of the Storm Surge Barrier are barely visible on the left, and Schouwen-Duiveland island is visible across the Oosterschelde. I am not sure what the large structure in the foreground is, but I found it visually interesting.
An old dike house atop on Noord-Beveland. Eddy wanted to be on the cycle path running along the edge of the Oosterschelde, but could not find a nearby access road
The white sluice gate towers of the Storm Surge Barrier are dwarfed by the ever-present windmills on Neeltje Jans, the artificial island. As is true on most days, the sluice gates are open, allowing salty sea water to flow into the Oosterschelde
We left our tailwind at the Seafarm restaurant, joining the Zeeuwse Wind Route as it crossed the Storm Surge Barrier - the North Sea on our left and the Oosterschelde on our right. The first span of the Barrier took us to the large man-made island of Neeltje Jans, where there is both an amusement park and a museum centered on the Delta Works project and other long-term plans for protecting the Netherlands from the increased risks of flooding due to climate change. Two smaller sections of the Storm Barrier connected Neeltje Jans with Schouwen-Duiveland via a smaller man-made island.
Our ride east along the southern coast of Schouwen-Duiveland was into a headwind of 11-13 mph, with some crosswinds thrown in for variety. To me, the winds were barely noticeable and in fact enhanced the overall experience as we hugged the shore line, cycling in the sea air between the ring dike and the water, past salt marshes and mud flats. I couldn't keep the smile off my face.
The longest section of the Storm Surge Barrier crosses over the Oosterschelde to Neeltje Jans island
Cycling past the piston towers that operate sluice gates of the Storm Surge Barrier. I remarked to Eddy that we cyclists seem to have a wider road than the cars. That is the way of the Netherlands, he replied
The waters of the Oosterschelde support a variety of boating activities - from kayaking to sailing. The arched spans of the Zeelander Bridge are visible in the distance
Oops - Ria picked up a nail on the gravel section of the Zeeuwse Wind Route. Eddy efficiently found and patched the first hole but there was a another. Repeat, and we were good to go.
Another Zeeland tradition of Eddy and Ria is a detour to the town of Zierikzee for a drink/coffee. Then it was across the Zeelander bridge and back to the car.
Along the canal to Zierikzee. Sheep graze atop the dike while trucks wait patiently as the Zeelander Bridge opens for a tall-masted sailboat
I must give a great deal of thanks to Eddy and Ria for sharing Zeeland - it was a truly unique and extraordinary experience. Sharing it with them made it even more special.
Today's ride: 39 miles (63 km) Total: 2,512 miles (4,043 km)
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Suzanne GibsonHow wonderful that you got to get to know that part of Holland. Following the coast there was one of my favorite rides, absolutely fascinating and exhilarating. Reply to this comment 2 years ago
Patrick O'HaraLove the info and maps about the Delta Works! Very interesting. Thanks for rekindling old memories of our very first bicycle tour of Europe. Reply to this comment 2 years ago
