I've spent the past week in Paris entertaining family visitors and now that they've left it’s now high time I turned my attention to finishing up my Cathedral Tour – especially as I will soon be off on another short tour.
Now where was I - oh yes, on the road to Reims.
It was predicted to be another hot day, with temperatures even higher than yesterday. In consideration of the heat, I’d plotted a route to Reims that minimized changes in elevation, thinking that a slightly longer, flatter route would make for a shorter day in the blistering heat. It may have been faster, but by the end of the day I regretted my choice and yearned for the undulating but shaded terrain to my west.
The day started promising enough, as I descended from Laon and traveled east along tree-lined roads that took me through a number of small towns of the Ainse department. There was not a lot to see, save the occasional cow or church, but I did pass a large German Memorial Cemetery that reminded me yet again of the bloody history of northern France.
Wonderful morning cycling along quiet tree-lined roads
German Military Cemetery located on an isolated stretch of road between Mauregny and Montaigu. A plaque indicates 7,192 German soldiers are interred here. From the little information I found on web, the site has an underground chapel and the names of those buried here. But all was quiet today and the gate was locked.
After about twenty miles of enjoyable cycling, I dropped down into an agricultural plain of expansive fields and tall silos. As I crossed under the autoroute and turned south for Reims, the temperatures rose and the landscape became dry and forlorn. I passed through a series of seemingly empty towns in a vain search of a cold beverage. I had high hopes when I rolled into Villeneuve-sur-Aisne at lunchtime – my timing was right and it was one of the larger towns on today’s route. I was so astounded to find both the Carrefour and the Tabac shuttered tight that I actually Googled to see if this was some obscure French holy day – but no, it was just August in France.
After leaving Villeneuve-sur-Aisne, I crossed the Aisne River and continued south through an arid landscape that was sorely in need of rain. I also was thirsty – nothing near critical but I was craving a cold carbonated beverage. I got a water refill at cemetery outside Berméricourt, and shortly thereafter passed an open bar adjacent to the La Loivre Canalway where I purchased a cold coke and enjoyed the long cold drink while sitting on the edge of the canal watching fish circle in the waters below.
...and then bounded off across the field, slowing to a walk before entering the woods at the edge of the field. She had a noticeable limp, similar to a deer I'd seen yesterday. I don't know what was more improbable - that it was the same deer, or that there were two individuals with the same distinctive limp. The third possibility was a case of heat-induced hallucination
A short two-mile stretch along the La Loivre Canalway led me to D966, one the larger, high-traffic departmental roads that I generally try to avoid. The traffic was moderate but steady, and after a few miles I was traveling through the streets of Reims towards my hotel. Only it wasn’t my hotel. There I stood, slack-jawed with sweat dripping down my face as it slowly sunk in that I had mistakenly entered the wrong hotel into RWGPS. I corrected the mistake, got back on Vivien George, and we made our way to our booked lodging. I collapsed on the bed, finding a bit of relief in the slightly cool room. Eventually I rose, showered and headed out on the town where I enjoyed an early dinner of burger, fries and a chocolate shake. Then it was off to visit the cathedral before turning in for the night.
The last half of this route is one I would not recommend
My cathedral tour has come to an end. It was my first themed tour and I rate it an overall success – the cathedrals were magnificent, even for someone who eschews ornateness. I did not spend enough time in each city to give a full report, but most had an established historical area and thriving restaurant scene. It is an area of France that may not get a lot of touring cyclists, but it is an area rich in history with a wonderful network of small roads and canalways. No doubt it would be more enjoyable if France were not in the midst of a drought and heat wave – perhaps a spring or fall visit would be best.
Today's ride: 45 miles (72 km) Total: 2,137 miles (3,439 km)
Rate this entry's writing
Heart
10
Comment on this entry
Comment
1
Rachael AndersonWhat a hard day! I’ll bet your glad to be back in Paris where you aren’t forced to go out in the heat! Reply to this comment 2 years ago
