To Gravina in Puglia

April 20, 2022

Today promised to be an excellent cycling day – along small roads of the Murgia Plateau with lots of sunshine, moderate temperatures, and low winds. I had planned an indirect route to Gravina in Puglia, heading north then west through Altamura. I made my way off the hill of Matera and, after a few hiccups, found myself on a dirt track in an open expanse of old ruins and small farms.The dirt track didn’t last long, but the expansive vistas persisted as I made my way north on low-traffic roads. The going was slow - more like a stroll on a bike - due in part to the road surface but mainly to the frequent photo stops.

The road got a little dicier before I found pavement

The road was so isolated, this truck stopped by to see if I was okay

After ten miles, I bid a fond farewell to Basilicata and crossed back into Apulia. I was in need of some nourishment – not due to strenuous cycling but rather to the meager breakfast offerings. The landscape was pretty bereft of shade, but I found a nice semi-shaded spot under a dead tree for a bite of cheese and some almonds.

I continued north, climbing past the former railroad town of Casal Sabini and onto a higher region of the Murgia Plateau. It was there I met two pellegrinis, Alessandra and Sylvie, on their way to Altamura along the Camino Materano. We had a most enjoyable conversation using Google Translate and they encouraged me to have lunch at the nearby Masseria Scalera, about a kilometer off my route. Since I had the time, I followed their suggestion, which led me down and up a steep and rocky track to an enclave of buildings where I was welcomed by assortment of dogs – none too threatening. There was a small building that appeared to be the restaurant, but when I poked my head in there was no one home. I lingered a few minutes and was about to cycle off when the owner appeared, a friendly woman who spoke excellent English and offered me beer, wine, cheese….not exactly the lunch menu I’d expected. She told me a bit about the farm and the Camino Materano and then I headed off to Altamura.

Susan, Alessandra and Sylvia - travelers on the Murgia Plateau

Outdoor dining at Masseria Scalera, complete with dairy cattle and dogs

Looking east, toward the Camino Materano

I had half a mind to detour along the Camino Materno route west to Altamura, saving me a few miles from my original route. But after a brief exploration of the Camino, I chose to stay on course. I was second-guessing myself as I continued north, but then I turned west onto a wonderfully sealed road that rolled to the outskirts of Altamura. I climbed up to the Cathedral where I stopped for a coke, espresso and more of my cheese and nuts. The final stretch to Gravina in Puglia were the least enjoyable of the day – along the smaller of the two state roads that ran between the two towns, but still busy with a steady stream of cars and large trucks. I was delighted to reach my B&B and find that I’d been upgraded to a very large and luxurious suite.

Ornate door of the Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta

Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta - construction in the surrounding area made it difficult to get an expansive view

Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta, from down the street

After chores and a bit of rest, I set out to explore the town. There was a lot to see, so I’ll share in a separate post.

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Today's ride: 35 miles (56 km)
Total: 374 miles (602 km)

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