To Gramat

October 6, 2022

I woke just past six and walked over to the train station to see if I could glean some more information on getting to Souillac. I was elated when the tote board appeared to show my 7:39 am train to Limoges was running as scheduled, and asked the attendant at the Relay store for confirmation. She noted that the train was designated “supprimé,” and directed me to the SNCF office down the platform - this was not the SNCF ticket/information room but a smaller office where train folk hang out between train arrivals/departures. I waved through the window and after being admitted, I learned that the supprimé designation meant that the train route from Montluçon to Limoges would be by bus, and would arrive in Limoges at eleven, by which time I would have missed my connection to Souillac. Whether the bus would accept Vivien George was up to the bus driver. Fortunately, the driver was in the SNCF office and agreed to take us both to Limoges, should I choose to go by bus rather than wait for the four pm train.

Both the SNCF office and their App showed trains from Limoges to Souillac departing at noon and six pm; however only the six pm train showed up when I filtered the search with “add a bike.” Rather than wait in Montluçon for the four pm train to Limoges, I decided to take the bus and chance that I could get Vivien George on the noon train, which would arrive in time to cycle to Gramat. As there were limited seats left on the noon train, I exchanged my ticket to take the earlier train, checked-out of the hotel, and boarded the 7:39 bus to Limoges. Vivien George was laid gently in the undercarriage on the opposite side from the normal luggage compartment and we were on our way.

Rather than taking a direct route to Limoges, the bus supprimé wound along the small roads of rural France, stopping at each of the towns and villages on the train route. It was a route similar to what I would plot if cycling, and it was a bit surreal to view things from my perch high above the roadway. We arrived in Limoges at eleven and Vivien George seemed to have withstood the journey in fine form. The bus deposited us across the tracks from the station, which was only accessible via a walkway two stories above the tracks. Thankfully there was an elevator – but sadly it was out of order. After two trips up and down the stairs, I made it into the station and headed straight for the SNCF office where I was told in no uncertain terms that I could not take the bike on the noon train to Souillac. I would have to wait for the six o’clock train.

I telephoned Marc, the host at my B&B to let him know I would not be arriving in Gramat that evening. After inquiring as to whether my bike might fit in his car, he offered to pick me up in Souillac and drive us to Gramat. On learning he did not have a hatchback, I voiced some skepticism but he cheerfully insisted that we could make things work and would welcome me in Souillac at 7:30 pm. Feeling much better, I set off to find a good meal near the Gare de Limoges-Bénédictins.

It was a bit strange traveling along one of my typical cycle routes by bus rather than bike

The bus perspective of a cyclist on one of the larger, busier departmental roads

Arriving at the Limoges station - the next step was getting up to the walkway across the tracks

I found a cozy restaurant a few blocks from the train station, one that quickly filled up with locals on their workday lunch. I decided on a burger and fries, though I always have trouble eating the French version of an “American” burger - they are usually too thick to eat by hand and I’ve not mastered the French technique of cleanly cutting the burger/bun/fixings into nice bite-size pieces. Instead, the meat and fixings squirt out from the bun and I am left with a soggy mess on my plate. But I did the best that I could and headed back to the train station for the five hour wait – at least there was plenty of time for journaling.

The Limoges station had elevators down to each platform as well as monitors indicating where on the platform each numbered train car would stop. As soon as the track was announced, I headed down and found my spot on the platform and waited. The train was an Intercities train, similar to one I had taken on the trip to Limoux earlier this summer. The recollection that there were steps up the train car, a fact I confirmed with one of the SNCF agents, caused a little anxiety as it would require two trips during brief stop. However, I was soon joined on the platform my three jovial SNCF trainmen who were boarding the same car – part of a shift change at Limoges. After joking around a bit, they assured me that the train would not leave without me. In fact, they graciously helped me unload Vivien George and my panniers when we arrived in Souillac.

Marc was waiting at the station when I arrived, instantly recognizing me as the person with a bicycle. When he opened the trunk of car I was a bit dismayed that it did not open up into the back seat. However, I removed the front wheel and we slid Vivien George in, rear first with ffork and handlebars hanging out the rear of the car. “Splendid” declared Marc, tying a rag around the handlebars and lowering the trunk lid a bit. And off we went, on the thirty minute drive to Gramat. Though the last two car trips Vivien George had taken resulted in mishaps (broken derailleur hanger and brake malfunction), she withstood this ride like a trooper.

I thanked Marc profusely and after briefly going over the check-in procedures I gave Scott and Rachael a call to tell them I’d arrived! Scott met me in the town market hall and led me over to their apartment where Rachael scrambled me some eggs and we excitedly caught up on past and future activities. It was a joy to be back in the comfort of the Cycle Blaze family - I’m quite excited about the days ahead.

Waiting outside Gare de Limoges-Bénédictins

Yes, that does appear to be a large paint brush in her right hand

My work station in Gare de Limoges-Bénédictins - it took me about an hour to realized the power outlets were not working

Vivien George was not quite secured in the trunk of Marc's car

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Rich FrasierWhat a day! I know it must have been stressful, but think of the memories you acquired. Another example of how the French just kind of make things work out somehow...
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2 years ago

Susan CarpenterTo Rich FrasierThanks Rich - and it is always nice to have them ease that pernicious American anxiety
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2 years ago

Keith KleinHi,
A great day, all in all, despite canceled trains and absent elevators (I reread the para. and saw that you had noted that, too). That area is a splendid one to tour in.
Cheers,
Keith
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2 years ago