October 9, 2022
To Figeac
Today was moving day – after two extraordinary day rides from Gramat, our Cycle Blaze trio headed to Figeac where we would stay one night before moving on for a three-night stay in Bouziès. It has been a joy to spend time with Scott and Rachael, both on and off the bike, and I feel quite fortunate to be tagging along through one of their favorite areas of France.
It was a short ride to Figeac, so we lingered a bit after our final breakfast at Le Heurtoir Rouge. We thanked Marc for his generous hospitality, especially for going out of his way to pick me up at the Souillac train station and after farewells and photos, we headed off under sunshine and blue skies. We followed yesterday’s route for the first few miles heading east out of town before heading southeast in Bio, following small roads through the Parc Naturel Régional des Causses du Quercy, a UNESCO Global Geopark. The route was a bit lumpy and terrain was varied, a wonderful mix that combined with the weather and company to make for a splendid ride.
A boulangerie in Themines caught my attention so we stopped for a small pastry break, enjoying a variation on pain au raisin in the late morning sun when who should pull up but the three cyclists we met in Rocamadour – Jean-Luc, Daniel and Michele. Rachael was beside herself with surprise and delight – her third rendezvous with Jean-Luc. They were continuing their five day tour of the area, on their way to Saint-Cérés, and after lots of laughs and photos we parted ways – à prochain fois – until next time.
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A few miles and scores of sheep later, we passed through the town of Assier, home of Église Saint-Pierre d'Assier and Château d'Assier, both of which honor the exploits of Galiot de Genouillac. Once the fencing master for King François I, Genouillac was a Grand Master of the Artillery of France and a renown military tactician whose concept of a mobile, fast and precise field artillery played a decisive role in French military victories. The exterior of Église Saint-Pierre d'Assier is wrapped in a carved frieze over 100 meters long that depicts the military exploits and victories of Genouillac.
As we left Assier, Rachael biked ahead looking for a good lunch spot while Scott and I dawdled along taking pictures. I stopped to share an apple with a couple of donkeys, then waited for Scott to catch up, knowing he was tracking Rachael on the Garmin. The area was pretty heavily wooded, but Rachael found a small clearing on the side the road for our picnic. As we were finishing up and about to start the long downhill to Camburet, Scott mentioned that we could bypass the steep climb/descent just before entering Figeac if we rode an extra few miles, including a stretch on what might be a busy road. Also, his brakes were rattling and feeling a bit squishy. We quickly agreed that the highway was best – safety first. There was still the long descent to Camburet, but similar to yesterday, the grades were gentle and, for me at least, required minimal braking.
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There was a nice bike trail on the outskirts of Figeac that bypassed much of the highway and provided a stress-free route into town, although the traffic was light. We were all booked into the same hotel, and after checking in Rachael and I went out for a brief exploration of Figeac, a town of narrow side streets and small plazas. After a fine meal at a nearby restaurant, we closed the book on another splendid day of cycling.
Today's ride: 29 miles (47 km)
Total: 3,080 miles (4,957 km)
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