I’m off again on another short tour, this time to visit some friends in Geel, Belgium. I met Eddy and Ria in 2018, on my first extended bike tour. I was traveling with Carolyn, a friend from the US who had joined me in Bordeaux, and we had stopped in the small town of Damazan for lunch. As we circled through town looking for open restaurants, we noticed another touring pair on a similar mission. We all arrived simultaneously at the only open restaurant and were delighted to see two free tables, saving us the awkward situation of “fighting” for a table. However, the waiter rushed over just as we were about to seat ourselves and informed us it would be at least thirty minutes before they could take our order – it was Father’s day and the restaurant was slammed with dads and their families. We considered our options – knowing that we would likely find a similar situation in the next town. And somehow, a decision was reached and we ended up with all four of us – Ria, Eddy, Carolyn and me – sitting down at the same table. We eventually got our lunch, lingering over it for the next two hours while we shared life stories and dreamed up new cycling adventures. Ria and Eddy insisted on paying for our lunch and in thanks for their kindness and generosity, I promised to keep in touch and visit them in Belgium. After more than four years, I’m heading off to keep my promise.
Once I’d committed to visiting Ria and Eddy, the next step was designing an interesting route to get there and back. There have been more than a few modifications since the original conception, but each variation began in Domrémy-la-Pucelle, the birthplace of Joan of Arc. From there, the route continues up the Meuse River into Belgium, taking me past the WWI memorials in Verdun. I’ll spend a few days with Eddy and Ria before heading back to Paris by train in time for my next mini-tour, which starts September 5. Lots of excitement in the next few weeks!!
The tour started with a train ride from Paris to Neufchâteau followed by a short bike ride to Domrémy-la-Pucelle. As usual, I enjoyed the early morning ride through the streets of Paris and arrived in plenty of time for my 8:38 TGV to Nancy. It was my second visit to Gare l’Est, and the familiarity with the layout and entry kiosks eased the stress of getting to the train. And I was thrilled that the this TGV bike car was the old-fashioned sort, with Vivien George strapped in against unoccupied seats in what was once the handicap space. I changed trains in Nancy, using the always welcome elevators to whisk us down and up to the correct platform. We arrived in Neufchâteau around noon, and after a trip to the local bakery for lunch provisions we hit the road, heading north on the Meuse Cycle trail. I may be getting more accustomed to bike/train travel, but the start of this trip was really a piece of cake.
Vivien George's favorite mode of TGV travel - no dangling from hooks or mounds of luggage piled on top. Although she is a bit conscious of her over-sized bootie.
I readily admit to my fascination with Joan of Arc – a teenage girl who convinced the future king of France, Charles VII, to allow her to dress in men’s clothes, lead an army to end the siege of Orléans, and then escort Charles to his rightful coronation in Reims. Though the English were vanquished at Orléans, Joan was later captured, tried for heresy, and burned at the stake in Rouen. At the trial, it seemed that one of her most egregious offenses was dressing in men’s clothing. Having recently visited Rouen and the site of her death, it seemed only fitting to complete a circle and visit the site of her birth in Domrémy-la-Pucelle. Along the way, I stopped at the Basilica of Bois-Chenu, a 19th century basilica dedicated to Joan of Arc.
The Basilica of Bois-Chenu lies on a wooded hillside outside Domrémy-la-Pucelle, overlooking the pastures where Joan is said to have heard the voices of angels as she was tending sheep. It was a quiet and peaceful spot with few visitors, perfect for a quick lunch before exploring the grounds and a peek inside the church. Finally sated with Part I of my Jeanne d’Arc pilgrimage, I headed down the hill to Domrémy-la-Pucelle and the second act, a visit to the Birthplace and Musee Jeanne d’Arc.
On the road, heading for Basilica of Bois Chenu on the distant wooded hillside
On the grounds of the Basilica of Bois Chenu is this statue commemorating Joan and her voices - the young kneeling Joan on first hearing the voices, and the soldier Joan flanked by the two angels Saint Margaret and Saint Catherine.
The interior of the Basilica of Bois Chenu is filled with statues, murals, and stained glass windows that honor Joan of Arc and tell the story of her life
One of the murals telling the story of Joan' life - this one depicts her vision of Archangel Michael, Saint Margaret, and Saint Catherine who compelled her to visit Charles VII and help save France from control by the English
The lintel above the doorway of Joan's childhood home. On the3 right is Joan of Arc's Coat of Arms, granted to her by Charles VII: a hilted sword under a crown, flanked by two fleurs-de-lys
Also above the lintel is a copy the statue showing a kneeling Joan of Arc, the oldest known statue of her. The original statue is behind glass in the adjacent museum
After my fill of all things Jean d'Arc, I took a short walk through the small village of Domrémy-la-Pucelle and walked back to my Chambres d'Hôte, a rambling house on the edge of town with a garage for Vivien George and a large, high-ceilinged room for me. The large windows brought in a nice breeze and I and I spent the rest of the afternoon working on the journal. I’d made some progress finishing up my post on the Reims Cathedral while on the train, but fear Reims has gotten the short straw - I need get a good start on this current tour lest I fall hopelessly behind.
Soon it was time for dinner – and my choices were limited as both restaurants in town were closed. Fortunately the Chambres d’Hôte has an agreement with an auberge in the next town for providing transport to and from dinner – my host in Domrémy-la-Pucelle will drive guests the four km to Chaussay and the restaurant owner will return them after dinner.
It turned out to be a delightful meal – the food was passable, but my unexpected dinner companion, Carole, was a delight. She was traveling alone on her motorcycle, on a two-day holiday to celebrate her birthday, which was today. Two women on separate two-wheeled adventures – of course we had a lot to share! Though she spoke virtually no English, we managed with my rudimentary French and the occasional help from Google Translate. She is quite the adventurous spirit – motorcycling and rock climbing give her thrills while yoga centers her and brings balance to her life.
We closed the restaurant, finally getting up as they were turning off the lights. Carole and I said our good-byes and I was quickly returned to Domrémy-la-Pucelle – a little too quickly, I might add. But though it was a fast trip, I had ample time to once again reflect on how much unexpected encounters enrich cycle touring. It was great to be back on the road.
Main street of Domrémy-la-Pucelle, with Église Saint Remy in the left foreground
Carole and her ice cream and birthday tart, decorated with a little EU flag. I hadn't noticed until that her table was under a photograph of a motorcycle - Bridget Bardot on a Harley Davidson. Seems appropriate.
