To Cordes-Sur-Ciel

October 15, 2022

My first visit to Saint-Antonin-Noble-Val was in 2019, during my second self-supported tour of significant length. I’d booked a room at a B&B that offered bike touring advice/guidance so I decided to stay three nights and take advantage of route advice from Peter, the local professional. In discussing route options, Peter strongly encouraged me to cycle through a section of the Gorges de l'Aveyron known as the Route de la Corniche. I was a bit hesitant : I’d spent most of my cycling/touring life on the flats of Iowa and France; I afraid of heights; and I was not a fan of steep, twisting, downhills. But I went for it, and I loved it. The two days I spent cycling around Saint-Antonin-Noble-Val convinced me not to avoid terrain, but in fact to embrace it. My tours over the last three years have reflected a new attitude about climbing - I still don’t like the downhills, but they are a bit less terrifying. I now regret that I started too late, and may have aged out of the classic ascents undertaken by other Cycle Blazers. But I keep pushing and enjoying it all.

The distance between Saint-Antonin and Cordes-Sur-Ciel is not great – a little over 16 miles by the direct route. Naturally, I did not want to take the direct route and so devised a pretty circuitous track that started out on the Route de la Corniche - I was looking forward to meeting her the second time around, on a loaded Vivien George no less. Before leaving, however, I took advantage of the morning sun for a short stroll around this small medieval village, then bought some provisions and headed up memory lane.

The rains were gone, leaving blue skies and a clear view of the Roc d’Anglars from the streets of Saint-Antonin

Archways to the main square of Saint-Antonin-Noble-Val

Ready for another trip up the Route de la Corniche

The first two miles after crossing the Aveyron were on a short gravel lane that wound through the woods along the Aveyron River before ending at D115 roadway. I crossed over to the turnoff for the Route de la Corniche and began the two-plus mile climb to the top – still a challenge, but not a problem. As I rounded the final curve and saw the tunnel, the overhangs, and steep drops, I recalled the awe I’d felt in 2019 and the thrill of actually cycling along the corniche – my first such experience. And it still thrilled me today, just as good the second time around.

The descent along the Route de Corniche was a bit more fun than my maiden voyage, and I was soon back cruising along D115. I continued my meander to Cordes, turning east on a small road that took me up towards Saint-Michel-de-Vax. It was a nice, steady climb that wound through the woods and opened up to expansive views near the top, on the fun side of challenge. There was a hunters cabin near the top that I explored a bit before continuing the climb, which crested in an open space where I unexpectedly saw my very own henge – the Peyralade Dolmen, said to date back to the late Neolithic period. It was the perfect spot for my picnic lunch.

Along the Route de la Corniche, with views back to Roc d'Anglars overlooking Saint-Antonin

I've travelled through many rock tunnels this past week, but there is nothing like the thrill of the first time - a short but sweet thrill

And after the tunnel, there were overhangs and steep drops, which kept my my heart racing back in 2019

Along the Gorges de Aveyron, south of Saint-Antonin

Up through a tunnel of greens, yellows, and oranges

I kept wanting a sweater knit in these various shades of tan and brown

Vivien George at Cabane Clovis, a hunter's cabin near Saint-Michel-de-Vax

In need of a few slats and fresh paint, but comfortable enough after a day on the hunt

Vincent and Ace enjoyed some sunshine during my picnic lunch at the Peyralade Dolmen

After lunch it was almost all downhill on small roads through an open countryside of meadows and farmland, my kind of landscape. I could see Cordes-sur-Ciel across the way, a bastide town perched high above the surrounding countryside. Once there, I made my way up toward the center of town, to the Cité, but was forced to dismount at the final turn when I encountered a steep and narrow cobblestone street filled with tourists. I was a little early for the four o’clock check-in, but the hotel was open and I was welcomed in. Vivien George was tucked away on the terrace and after cleaning up and went for a brief walk about town.

Had I chosen a direct route from Saint-Antonin, I could have spent more time exploring this medieval town with a rich history. But I thoroughly enjoyed my meandering route, revisiting an old friend and making unexpected discoveries on the high road. A great day.

Meandering on small roads on the way to Cordes-sur-Ciel

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Today's ride: 27 miles (43 km)
Total: 3,220 miles (5,182 km)

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Scott AndersonIsn’t it great to have the sun back?

This looks like a spectacular day. I have wonderful but very vague memories of our own ride through here 15 years ago. If we ever make it back to the gorges we’ll definitely come to the Averyron again.
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2 years ago

Rich FrasierThere’s a sweetness in revisiting old friends.
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2 years ago

Lucy MartinBeautiful!
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2 years ago

Susan CarpenterTo Rich FrasierSo true, Rich
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2 years ago