To Charleville-Mézières

August 26, 2022

The weather forecast for today had both good and bad news. On the positive side – the heat had broken and temperatures would stay be in the high 70s. On the negative side were the predictions for rain, starting around ten and lasting most of the day. However, a closer look at the radar map suggested I might be able to avoid much of the rain if I headed north as soon as possible. So I tossed my plans for a leisurely morning spent journaling – I moved my raincoat to the top of the panniers and planned to head out with “the boys” around nine. After much picture taking and warm good-byes, we rolled out of Mouzay at a quarter past nine.

Good-bye selfies of an extraordinary group of new friends

I didn’t stay with the boys for long, detouring into Stenay to pick up some provisions at the bakery – no sandwiches but I did get a pain au raisin. Due to the possibility of rain, I considered taking a direct route north to Charleville-Mézières on D30, bypassing two loops of the official Meuse River Cycle Route. In the end, I opted for the loops and was amply rewarded. The first loop on D30B followed the west bank of the river as it wound its way north 0n a car-free road that curved up and down through fields and woodlands. It was such an enjoyable ride that there was no hesitation when I rejoined D30 – a quick hello and good-bye and then a turn onto the D30C loop.

As I made my way up the narrower D30C, I was a bit surprised when I heard rumbling up ahead. No, not thunder, it was a very large tractor hauling a grain wagon. I soon realized that I was on a “grain road” during the height of the harvest – multiple tractors/trucks filled with mounds of grain passed me from both directions. Fortunately, they made enough of a roar to give me ample time to pull off to the side, and it was much easier for them to pass me than to pass each other. The road ended with a series of sharp turns at Beaumont-en-Argonne where I stopped to enjoy my pastry on the steps of Église Saint-Jean-Baptiste - a bit high after ten wonderful miles looping along the Meuse.

Skies are a bit dark as I headed north out of Mouzay

For Lucy, the Saint of Fair Voting in Story County

The trucks just bypassed the bridge outside Beaumont-en-Argonne and made their own route across the small stream

Église Saint-Jean-Baptiste in Beaumont-en-Argonne

After a short stretch on D30, the Meuse River Cycle Route climbed north along the Joncq River to Mouzon through some of the best landscape of the day. I kept stopping for photos – of cows, of pastures, of distant farms. I’d been alone on the road for most of the day, and except for the grain trucks I’d seen few vehicles or cyclists all morning. Therefore, I was a bit startled by the sound of bells coming from behind – and elated to see it was Michael, Peter, and Norbert! After waiting for Berthold to catch up, we all headed into Mouzon for coffee and/or food.

Just a few miles after leaving Mouzon, the Meuse River Cycle Route joined the Trans Ardennes Voie Vert, and I continued on the cycle path the next twenty-eight miles to Charleville-Mézières, my stop for the night. The cycle path generally ran alongside the Meuse River and Canal, sometimes diverting into the adjacent countryside. It was fairly uninteresting stretch, and I made good time to Charleville-Mézières – staying dry the entire day.

Finally a field of yellow sunflowers! And cows!!

For dinner I headed to Place Ducale, a very large open plaza that reminded me of a Plaza Mayor in Spain. I’d scoped out an Italian restaurant online that looked promising, but they were closed for vacation. As I wandered past the tables and arcades looking for a suitable alternative, I spotted a vintage Peugot, looking very much like the 1972 model that I used on my very first ever three day bike tour around Central Ohio. I had a brief but enjoyable conversation with its owner Olivier who said it was a 1975 model that he had rebuilt/refurbished. Then I was off for a fish dinner and a good night’s sleep, ending another day on the delightful Meuse River Cycle Route.

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Today's ride: 49 miles (79 km)
Total: 2,319 miles (3,732 km)

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Rachael AndersonIsn’t wonderful when a day predicted to have rain stays dry!
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