To Cahors

October 26, 2022

I awoke to a glorious day - clear blue skies, little wind, a morning chill that would wane as the day went on. In all, it was a fitting day on which to wrap up an extraordinary tour in the Causses de Quercy, one filled with friendship and inspirational displays of nature.

I couldn’t let the ride begin without some commemorative shots - of Vivien George, of us together, of the troglodyte ruins of the Défilé des Anglais (or English Château), and of the tunnel beneath. Then it was down the Lot River. The road was familiar yet the scenery still had the ability to invoke a sense of wonder – it is a ride that would never grow old or mundane.

My contribution the the collection of CycleBlaze Reflections, on the way to Cahors

This captures almost everything - blue skies, a smiling Susan, Vivien George, the Défilé des Anglais, the suspension bridge across the Lot - all that's missing is the river itself

My journey today will take me down the Lot River to Cahors

Through the tunnel of the Défilé des Anglais

A dog's life isn't what it used to be - he really seems to be enjoying the scenery!

I'll never get enough of the high limestone cliffs along the Lot River

I stopped briefly at the pharmacy in Vers for toothpaste and masks, remembering that my mode of travel would soon switch from cycling alone in the great outdoors to mingling on crowded trains, planes and the Metro – I was worried about Covid, not bad breath. Unable to buy more than a 50-pack of masks, I left with my toothpaste and crossed the Lot River just past Vers.

The route took me up and along a small road that ran above the south bank of the river. I was a sponge, absorbing all my surroundings – the intermittent sounds that broke the silence, the slight breeze, the canopy of trees, the sun-dappled road, and especially the cliff walls that reached down to the road. I stopped often for pictures, leaning Vivien George against the rock walls, determined to make this last day on the road one to always remember and cherish.

Crossing the Lot River - looking upstream toward Vers

Crossing the Lot River - looking downstream towards Cahors

As I crossed the bridge, a family was taking their excursion boat through the locks

While the children wait to swing open the gate

Rock cliffs on the north bank of the Lot River

An idyllic ride through the woods, up and along the south bank of the Lot River

In many sections, the rock cliffs descend all the way to the road

I tried to find safe spots to park Vivien George while stopping often for pictures

Looking out over the Lot River towards Vers

Today was indeed a day I will always remember and cherish. For some reason, the final days of my cycle tours in Europe have always involved some type of drama, and today was no exception. I had carefully/carelessly leaned Vivien George against a rock wall and was nearby taking pictures when I heard her fall to the ground – on her derailleur side. Alarmed, and with the memory of a broken derailleur hanger foremost in my mind, I gently picked her up, feeling a great sense of relief at finding no apparent damage to the hanger or to the derailleur itself. Promising myself to be more attentive, I got back on and continued up the road.

It was only a few minutes before I noticed the front tire was squishy. I happened to be near an intersection, so I pulled over to a grassy area where my fears of a flat tire were confirmed. It was Vivien George’s first flat tire, ever, and though I have fixed flats in the past, I have never done so with these tires/wheels. The tires I use are Schwalbe Marathon Mondial and though they are not tubeless tires, the wheels are tubeless ready – which means they have a rim that helps seal the tire when using a tubeless configuration. Unfortunately, the rim can cause difficulties when trying to remove and/or reseat the tire. Not possessing a great deal of thumb strength, I’ve always struggled reseating tires, even on my 1990 Trek 520. Therefore, my first inclination was to put air in the tire, hoping it was a very slow leak and I could limp along the remaining ten miles to Cahors. My test spin was promising, but after a few hundred yards with a loaded Vivien George, the tire had lost enough air as to be unsafe to ride.

Now I was at a decision point – change the tire or walk to Cahors. The option of hitching a ride seemed an unlikely third option, as only one motorcycle had been down the road in the last thirty minutes. I’d bought some heavy duty tire levers for just this occasion and, fearing that the long walk would damage the wheels, I convinced myself that I could successfully change the tire. But I first had to find a safe workspace – something not readily available on the narrow, winding road. I considered going back to the intersection, but my instinct is always to move forward. After about ten minutes, I came to a narrow grassy area between the road and the cliff where I upended Vivien George and began to work.

I was quite pleased that I was able to unseat the tire without too much trouble – my big yellow tire levers did the trick! I had a spare tube so went to work on the standard procedures for replacing a tube - I ran my fingers over the inside and outside of the tire to check for debris, added a little air to the new tube, carefully inserted the new tube, and then began the process of reseating the tire on the wheel. This is where I failed. And failed. And failed. And failed. And failed again.

I spent about an hour trying to get the tire reseated in the wheel – bloodying my thumb, watching YouTube videos, using both my big yellow and small black tire levers. Finally I realized I was not up to the task – I could not do it, I did not have the strength. I sat and considered my next options, all the while keeping at bay the unsettling implications of my situation – if I couldn’t change a flat tire, what the hell was I doing cycle touring by myself. Three cars had passed in the 90 minutes since my flat, so I could wait to flag someone down to help and/or give me a lift. If I was in the US, I could call an Uber or tow truck - I wasn’t sure how that would work in France, but it seemed like the best option.

Then I looked up and saw a pilgrim walking towards me.

Pierre is a strapping man who had recently retired from the French Navy and was walking the Compostela, today on his way from Rocamadour to Cahors. Can you help me? Of course. With a big smile, he put down his pack and went to work – he was familiar with the process of changing a bike tire and started at the beginning with an inspection of the tire. Despite his size and strength, he too struggled with reseating the tire – not only using both yellow levers but breaking the small black lever. It took a while, but I was elated when he eventually succeeded. Alas, success was fleeting, as the tube would not hold air. Thinking it was a pinch, Pierre repeated the whole routine twice more, and each time the new tube would not hold air. Sweat poured from brow - I was thankful for his dogged determination, but growing concerned. Not sure if the problem was in the valve stem or the tube, I again mentioned that I had another tube, my last, in my pannier. By now Pierre was a pro at removing/reseating the tire and soon it was time for the critical test. We both held our breath as he again pumped up the tire, too afraid to pinch the wheel. But success was ours at last – the third tube held air.

A bit physically and mentally exhausted, we lingered on that small patch of grass for almost twenty minutes, talking of the ways of the world and our life’s journeys. I thanked him profusely and offered some kind, any kind, of repayment but all he said was “Today was a good day to practice my English.” In the end, we exchanged contact information and promised to get together in Paris next spring for a cup of coffee. I intend to keep that promise.

It took a while to find a spot along the small, winding, and shoulder-less road where I could safely change a tire

I found a small patch of workspace between the road and the cliff and set about changing the tire

At one point, Vivien George tumbled over - my heart stopped when I thought she was headed over the edge and down the cliff!

Despite multiple, multiple attempts, the last 12-15 inches of the tire were impossible for me to reseat

Let's get air in this puppy! I'm not sure which of the many attempts to inflate the tube this was. We did not find a puncture on site, but at home I used the water test and found that both the original and the first spare had small punctures. No insight as to the cause.

Success at last! The sweat seeping through Pierre's shirt gives some indication of the effort involved in getting the tire road ready

The two large yellow levers were essential for reseating the tire - the smaller black lever quickly broke, but was kept as a souvenir

The last ten miles to Cahors, the final miles in this eight-month journey, were a bit of a daze. My head was a jumble of discordant thoughts: gratitude and remorse; doubt and affirmation. I crossed Pont Valentré, just a few blocks from the bridge, near the train station and home to one of the top-rated restaurants in town. My emotions were running high, a consequence of both the today’s events and the ending of my tour. I stepped into the shower and suddenly decided to take a bath – it’s something I almost never do but perhaps influenced a bit by Jill Gelineau, I stopped the drain and slid into a long relaxed soak that actually put me to sleep.

The soothing bath and an excellent dinner were quite restorative, and I went to sleep thankful for all the wonderful moments and people I’ve met over these last eight months. I vowed to be back on tour in the spring, next time with tubeless tires! For now, it's back to Paris and a final week in a city that I love. I'll keep you posted.

Pont Valentré in the late afternoon light

A bit more folks out strolling along the Pont Valentré - little time for hijinks such as climbing the parapets.

The end of the road for this year's adventure

Heart

Comment

Link

Today's ride: 20 miles (32 km)
Total: 3,522 miles (5,668 km)

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	9
Comment on this entry	Comment	24

Keith AdamsIt's been quite the journey. Thanks for sharing it with me.
Reply to this comment
2 years ago

Scott AndersonI’d already heard of this adventure, but even knowing the outcome I could feel the tension. It’s a reminder of how vulnerable we are regardless of how well prepared we feel. Thank goodness the right pilgrim came along.
Reply to this comment
2 years ago

Rich FrasierWell, that was an eventful last day! I've really enjoyed following along on, and briefly entering into, your amazing year on the bike. What a great adventure you've had! I look forward to whatever you do next!
Reply to this comment
2 years ago

Bob DistelbergI had a very similar experience with a Schwalbe Marathon tire a couple years ago, my first ever flat with a Schwalbe. I spent at least an hour trying to get the tire remounted, breaking two levers in the process. As soon as I tried to put air back in, it flatted again. In my case, the rim strip had shifted so a spoke hole was cutting into the tube. Ended up being a long walk home. You might want to check out something called a tire jack. Google ‘bicycle tire jack’ to see what they look like. It’s basically a handle and hook arrangement that gives you some leverage to get that last little bit of tire over the rim.
Reply to this comment
2 years ago

David MathersI don’t know if this link will help but recently I have been carrying this tire installation tool with me. Works great 👍 If the link doesn’t work search ‘bike tire installation tool’.
Thanks for the journal.
https://www.amazon.ca/Premium-Plastic-Remover-Inserting-Installation/dp/B07T3TSTPX/ref=asc_df_B07T3TSTPX/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=335268186946&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17609630949841256621&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001596&hvtargid=pla-896410144246&psc=1
Reply to this comment
2 years ago

Suzanne GibsonOh Susan, that was indeed a memorable last day of touring! A bit too much adventure perhaps... And how miraculous that the right person came by when you needed him. Phew, so glad the story had a happy end. Isn't it amazing how situations always do work out.
Reply to this comment
2 years ago

Lucy MartinWow, what a gorgeous day. Merci, Pierre, for all his roadside assistance.
Reply to this comment
2 years ago

Mike AylingSusan, I am going to miss your daily reports both well written and with great photos!
I read a number of bike forums and there are some rim/tyre combinations which do not play nicely together.
If that was your first puncture since acquiring your bike I would not be rushing to go tubeless as they can have issues of their own, one being that the sealant breaks down and has to be replaced at intervals.
Reply to this comment
2 years ago

Jacquie GaudetI was going to suggest going tubeless, since your rims are tubeless-ready, though it looks like you are leaning that way already.

Both Al and I opted for tubeless on our ti bikes and it’s been great! The initial mounting can be a pain, but that can be done by a shop. We try to mount new tires a week or so before packing the bikes for flight to be sure the bead is well sealed before reducing pressure; we leave in more than we used to with tubes. Our cases have separate wheel bags which would contain the mess if there was a sealant leak but 4 flights each so far without a problem. We didn’t replace the tires before going to Italy but took sealant to top up on arrival instead of doing so before packing the bikes.

I use Orange Seal and it’s always lasted longer than the tire, although sometimes needs to be topped up. I remove the valve core and use the dipstick method to check, first a week or two after mounting new tires, then every 2-3 months. It’s easy to add more sealant through the open valve before replacing the core.
Reply to this comment
2 years ago

Keith KleinHi,
Well done. It was a great trip, and a memorable tour indeed complete with a trail angel to see you safely home. So when do you come back?
Nice to meet you this year. Let’s do it again.
Cheers,
Keith
Reply to this comment
2 years ago

Susan CarpenterTo Keith AdamsThanks Keith
Reply to this comment
2 years ago

Susan CarpenterTo Scott AndersonYes, we all are pretty vulnerable and yet somehow there almost always seems to be a kind soul or two who helps us out when we need it most. Or even when there is no emergency, like a broken camera, for example.
Reply to this comment
2 years ago

Susan CarpenterTo Rich FrasierThanks Rich. And I'm also delighted that I got to share a part of the adventure with you and Robin, and a small bit with the rest of the TdF viewing public!
Reply to this comment
2 years ago

Susan CarpenterTo Bob DistelbergThanks Bob - I'll definitely check it out.
Reply to this comment
2 years ago

Susan CarpenterTo David MathersThanks for the suggestion David - I'll check it out for sure
Reply to this comment
2 years ago

Susan CarpenterTo Suzanne GibsonHi Suzanne - yes, it was another dramatic finish to a long tour, one that once again showed me how selfless and good-hearted people can be.
Reply to this comment
2 years ago

Susan CarpenterTo Lucy MartinThanks Lucy - and thanks for following along. I'll be back in US soon and will give you a call after elections to talk RAGBRAI. Stay sane.
Reply to this comment
2 years ago

Susan CarpenterTo Mike AylingThanks for you nice comments Mike and for following along.

The Mondiale tires have held up remarkably well and handle a variety of terrains - this is my second set, new when I came over this year. I've gotten a lot of suggestions re the tire reseating problem that I'll investigate/implement before my next tour, and probably won't rush into anything. Thanks for adding to the discussion.
Reply to this comment
2 years ago

Susan CarpenterTo Jacquie GaudetThanks Jacquie for your info and experiences about a tubeless set up.

I went tubeless when I did part of the Great Divide MDR last summer on WTB Raddler 44 mm gravel tires. I had no issues - it was only an 8 day tour, though it did involve air travel to Wyoming. When I changed to my touring tires last fall, I went back to a tubed set up. I'm wondering, what tubeless tires do you/Al use for touring?
Reply to this comment
2 years ago

Susan CarpenterTo Keith KleinHi Keith - thanks for following along. I've really appreciated all your comments, even the ones I didn't respond to.

It was wonderful meeting you and Susan and I definitely would enjoy seeing you both again. Unless something unforeseen happens, I'll be back the first of March and stay til late May. Thinking now I will not get another long stay visa for 2023, but that may change.

I'll keep in touch.
Best, Susan
Reply to this comment
2 years ago

Jacquie GaudetTo Susan CarpenterAl really likes his Panaracer GravelKing SK 700 x 32. He is limited to 32 as a maximum width due to the SRAM front derailleur on his Dean Torrey that he uses for bikepacking/touring (long story) but I suspect he would get the same tires in a slightly wider width if he could. He uses these tires for touring, gravel, and day rides that don't call for his light carbon bike. He has Enve carbon wheels which are apparently really nice to ride but a pain (imo) when it comes to mounting tires.

I use Panaracer GravelKings (no following letters) for touring for a couple of reasons: I want light tires suitable for the mostly-road riding we do (light for less rolling resistance and so I have a better chance of keeping up with Al) and these are one of the few options available in a 650b diameter. I use 650b x 38 because this width is a nice balance of speed and cushy and because my fenders fit (they don't with the next width up). For winter riding at home, I have Teravail Cannonballs (650b x 40) which still fit inside the fenders and have better grip but are noticeably more work than the Panaracers.

We both use fenders most of the time and always when touring. They keep the bike, especially its drivetrain, much cleaner.
Reply to this comment
2 years ago

Jacquie GaudetTo Susan CarpenterI forgot to add: the fenders mean any sealant spray doesn't go everywhere. I've only had a couple of occasions where sealant sprayed and both times, the tire sealed. I've never had to use a plug. Al has used plugs a few times. We each carry a spare tube and I carry a curved needle, some heavy thread, and a small tube of super glue on tour just in case. I hope we will never need this tire first aid, but it might have been helpful on that memorable ride to Domme (https://www.cycleblaze.com/journals/france2019/sarlat-to-cenac-et-saint-julien/) but that was before we switched to tubeless.
Reply to this comment
2 years ago

Susan CarpenterTo Jacquie GaudetThanks for the detailed info - it's great! Lots to think about over the winter. I usually ride the Moots with a 700x37 tires - not sure if I have fender mounts!
Reply to this comment
2 years ago

Rachael AndersonEven after talking to you about the flat tire, I can’t believe you had such bad luck turning to good luck! How amazing that Pierre came along and was so resourceful and patient with fixing the tire.
Reply to this comment
2 years ago