Today was yet another extraordinary day – and one off the bikes. It might seem odd that a Cycle Blaze rendezvous would be celebrated by a day off the bikes, but the walk along the famed towpath that links Bouziés and Saint-Cirq-Lapopie is something not to be missed. And since this was Ann and Steve’s only day in the area, we’d all agreed at dinner last night that the towpath was the number one priority for the day.
After a shared breakfast, I reconvened with the Andersons and Maher-Wearys at ten am for the day’s outing to Saint-Cirq-Lapopie. Before the towpath, however, it was a trip across the suspension bridge to photograph the Château des Anglais in the mid-morning light. The Château des Anglais, or English Castle, are the ruins of troglodyte fortifications built into the cliffs that line the Lot River across from Bousiés. Dating from the 11th and 12th century, the Château served as both a refuge and point of surveillance during the Hundred Years War.
View from my hotel room - the suspension bridge into Bousiés and the limestone cliffs along the Lot River
The Lot River and surrounding cliffs - you might be able to spot the Château just above the tress on the right, notable by it's square opening and crenellations
A little closer look at the Cháteau and one in which you might appreciate the large number of caves/recesses in the limestone cliffs. The large opening below the Cháteau is a short tunnel through which the roadway passes
The towpath, or Chemin de Halage, travels along the Lot River between Bousiés and Saint-Cirq-Lapopie and historically allowed flat-bottomed boats, or “gabarres,” to be hauled along the river by draft horses or groups of men. In one section of the river, however, the cliffs fall so steeply into the river that the path had to be dug out from the stone by men using “the sole force of their arms.” The result is a 400m long tunnel-like section of the towpath in the center of which is a 30m long bas-relief sculpted into the stone by the Toulouse artist Daniel Monnier. More about the bas-relief can be found in this link from Atlas Obscura, but I thought this excerpt was of particular interest.
In 1984, Monnier had stumbled onto the path and convinced local authorities to let him carve a bas-relief into the stone. When he began, the towpath was so deserted he could camp there. By the time he returned to finish it 30 years later, it had become so popular with tourists—43,000 people walked along the path between June and November of 2018—that he decided to work at night to avoid the crowds.
Today, we were just five of the many thousands who have traversed through the half-tunnel in amazement and have experienced the work of Monnier with sight, touch, and a sense of delight.
A perspective of the suspension bridge and Château des Anglais from the level of the river
The beginning of the Monnier's bas-relief (or the end, depending on which direction you are traveling). Steve and I, pulling up the rear of our group, were instantly compelled to reach out and run our fingers along the grooves and mirrored glass
Gregory GarceauTo Susan CarpenterI had to study the picture for a minute to get that "Minnesota is expecting" joke. Good one.
I have a friend who is amazing at finding shapes & likenesses in rock formations, trees, clouds, etc. You seem to have the same skill. Reply to this comment 2 years ago
Saint-Cirq-Lapopie was first settled between the 9th and 11th centuries by noble families who built the castles and fortifications of this clifftop village. Over time, the village became home for artisans and gabariers, the folks that worked the river. Today, Saint-Cirq-Lopopie is distinguished as "Le Plus Beaux Village de France" and is a popular tourist stop along the Lot River. The five of us gathered at the turn-off from the towpath, craning our necks upward before ascending to the lower levels of the village. From there, we quickly scattered, wandering up through the maze of village streets small side alleys and/or exploring the Chapelle Sainte-Croix. Soon, we’d all gravitated to the highest point in the village, gazing down at the towpath and across the expansive views of the Lot River Valley.
Our first look at Saint-Cirq-Lapopie, from the towpath
At this late in the season, there were few tourists and the number of open shops and restaurants was limited. We found a place to buy sandwiches to supplement our picnic items and enjoyed a relaxed lunch on their quiet terrace. Then it was back to Bouziés along the upper trail, one that traveled on footpaths and took us through a series of gates – almost like an English hike. Back in Bouziés, Rachael continued her hike, almost doubling up on my 6.5 mile outing. I retreated to my room for a rest and some journaling before joining everyone for dinner at the hotel restaurant - delicious food shared with special companions.
Another memorable day with part of the Cycle Blaze family
ann and steve maher-wearySusan what a fabulous write up of our delightful day. Thank you. And especially thanks for the info on the 30m long bas-relief sculpted by the Toulouse artist Daniel Monnier. Thinking about how his artwork was instrumental in bringing the towpath back to life. It’s a great story. What a magical spot to discover and especially with wonderful new friends. Thank you! Reply to this comment 2 years ago
