October 20, 2022 to October 21, 2022
In Sainte-Enimie
October 20
The big surprise of the day was a most generous and thoughtful gift – Scott gave me his camera. I was shocked, blown away
. He said it was on a bit of life-support, and he had a replacement that he’d been carrying around for eight months. I protested, but he would have none of it, happy to solve my unexpected need/desire for a real camera. I am extremely grateful and only hope that I do both Scott and the camera proud.
Rain was in the forecast for today, with perhaps a window of outdoor opportunity between ten and two. This was the only free day in Sainte-Enimie for Scott and Rachael, so over breakfast we strategized our plans for the day. I opted to go for a hike with Rachael while Scott was keen for a ride up to the Causse Méjean, if the weather would hold. Rachael and I were more uncertain of our route. I found a candidate on a hiking app, and after some technological frustration we set off with hopes of getting somewhere with a view before the rains came.
The trail left from town, angling steeply up a paved walkway that soon became a gravel/grass track. We paused a bit, taking stock of the situation. I am certainly not in Rachael’s league when it comes to hiking, and was a little concerned that descending back down trail would be treacherous if it started to rain – it was already a bit slippery. Rachael concurred, so we turned to RWGPS Outdoor and found a somewhat suitable alternative.
Our route started out as a gravel road, but eventually became more of a hiking trail, taking us north above Sainte-Enimie and into the wooded slopes of the Causse. As we gained elevation, the open fields of the plateau were visible just ahead, beckoning us onward. However, the trail soon disappeared and we emerged onto a small road that led to a cluster of buildings, probably Boisset. By this time the wind was howling and rain threatening. We donned our rain jackets and headed back down before we got a real soaking, making it to the Bar-Restaurant across from the hotel just before the rains came. We enjoyed our picnic lunch while listening to the patter of raindrops on the terrace awning – a lovely sound when you are safe and dry. Scott soon rolled up to join us, a little damp but a happy guy.
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October 21
Scott and Rachael hit the road today, down the Tarn Gorge and onward to warmer, dryer climes. We reminisced a bit over breakfast about what a great year it's been - both cycling together and forging a true friendship. Not sure when we'll next meet, but I'm already looking forward to it.
After Scott and Rachel left, I retreated to my room to consider route options for the coming days. My original plan had been to reverse Team Anderson’s route, cycling up to the Lot and then downriver to Cahors, where I would catch a train to Paris. But Scott had put the idea of the Ardeche Gorges in my head, so I had nixed my first plan in favor of heading east through the Ardeche and over to the Rhone, where I could easily find a train connection to Paris.
At breakfast this morning, however, Scott mentioned the weather outlook for the next four days – rain, rain, rain, rain. I was not eager to be alone in a pretty wild, unpopulated and hilly region during four days of rain. By mid-afternoon, I had abandoned the Ardeche in favor of heading west where the weather forecast was more promising.
After all that, there was still time for a short bike ride. I loaded Scott’s ride up the Causse Méjean and set out – I wasn’t sure how far I would get, but I knew I needed to get out of my room. It was a steady five mile climb up to the Causse, a little punchy in spots but generally steady at 5-6%. It was a fairly quiet ride that afforded great views, but no excitement such as a Big Horn Sheep bounding across the road. I made it up to the top of the col for a photo op, but ascended a bit higher, following Scott’s route up onto the Causse. However, I soon decided to turn around after less than a mile – it was getting a bit late and I wanted to get back before dusk.
Although I have come to enjoy climbing, I have yet to embrace descents. I’m getting more comfortable, but still find some a bit frightening. This descent leaned toward uncomfortable, in part because there was a large and deep ditch on my side of the road – no place to go should a car or truck come too close. I nevertheless made it safely back to the Auberge de Moulin where I enjoyed another fine meal, but missed the lively conversation.
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2 years ago
Today's ride: 11 miles (18 km)
Total: 3,359 miles (5,406 km)
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2 years ago
2 years ago