September 12, 2019
Saint-Junien
Le Château de la Redortière is a quite interesting place – a little run down in spots but the rooms were spacious and clean, the staff were very accommodating, and the food was great. I had a good long sleep and awoke to a glorious day – bright blue skies and sunshine. I was the only overnight guest at the Château, my last night's dining companions only here for the evening meal. There was a nice breakfast spread with more of their farm-made cheese. I took the remaining bread, ordered some cheese to go, and soon on my way a few minutes past ten.
After passing through the town of Lésignac-Durand, I circled round the north end of Lac du Mas Chabon and then headed east. I made a short stop at Pressignac – where flags and a banner remained from a mid-summer festival. As I continued on, the sun climbed higher and the temperature s rose, but there were enough trees lining the road to provide some welcome shade. My tourist destination for the day were the Gallo-Romans thermal baths at Cassinomagus, the ancient name for the present-day town of Chassenon. The ancient baths date from the first century and are some of the best-preserved European monuments from Roman times.
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I arrived at Cassinomagus a little before noon and spent the next hour marveling at the engineering feats of the ancient Romans as well as their propensity for self-indulgence. In addition to the two large thermal rooms, the complex includes two frigidariums where bathers could cool off, and a tepidarium that was a large area where one could acclimatize to the increased temperatures as well as play games and engage in social discussions and activities. Heat was provided by both hot water and hot air, and there was an elaborate system to circulate hot air through a series of brick towers. A separate latrine was built at the lowest part of the site, with a sewage system designed to remove wastewater and recirculate clean water. After absorbing all that information and more, I found a shady spot under an awning to enjoy my lunch of bread and cheese. I then explored a little more of the site, where archeological excavation continues today.
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Leaving Cassinomagus and Chassenon, I left the Charente and entered the Haute-Vienne region. The area along the Vienne River was more industrialized and populated, with newer houses that reminded me of the small tract houses you might find in the US southwest. There was quite a steep climb away from the river as I passed through Saillat-sur-Vienne. Seeming to go on forever, I pulled over and searched for a route to Saint-Junien that would follow the river. Thinking I found one, I went back down to the river, past the large paper mill, and crossed the river on a divided bridgeway flanked by curbs. I pulled over as soon as I had crossed, letting the big buses and trucks go by. Looking ahead, it was clear that this was a highly-trafficked road with a curb for a shoulder – not for me. I found another route that avoided town, but as I climbed up I realized that it connected with my original route. Soon, I was back on track, but pretty hot and tired from the mental and physical exertion.
I finally reached Saint-Junien and made my way up toward the city center just as the church bells were tolling four pm. I was looking forward to a cold drink and rest on the town square. However, my route turned right before reaching the center and, after a bit, I remembered that my lodging for the night was a few miles outside of town. I turned around and found the square, ordering both a Schweppes and an espresso. I took my time with each, taking in the local color but too tired for photos. After a bit, I headed out of town to my highway hotel, located on an access road to the national highway. I was a bit heat-addled, and did not comprehend that bike storage was in a large green trailer parked alongside the hotel. It eventually became clear that a large group of cyclists was also staying at the hotel, and the trailer was a great bike storage solution for those situations. The hotel did have a restaurant, and served a decent plat du jour of brie croquette, chicken with green beans, and a fresh fruit tart. I left before the other cyclists arrived for dinner, but from the table arrangement there appeared to be about 18 in the group.
Despite my weariness, sleep was slow in coming – highway noise being a major contributing factor. I needed my rest, for tomorrow I will visit the Orador-sur-Glane memorial and face the emotional challenge of remembering one the great atrocities of WWII.
Today's ride: 29 miles (47 km)
Total: 119 miles (192 km)
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