Rochefort

September 18, 2019

I kept my vows from the previous night and was finished with breakfast at just past 8 am. Since it was so early, and the day so splendid, I decided to explore a bit of Saintes before heading off. I walked over to Sainte-Pierre Cathedral where a market was just getting started. Lesson learned, I stocked up with a small baguette and two nectarines.

The former convent hall now converted into the hotel Les Chambres de l’Abbaye

Sainte-Pierre Cathedral seen through the Arch of Germanicus

The most amazing feature of today’s ride was the sky – a brilliant blue with incredible cloud formations. It wasn’t until I moved to Montana in my early 30’s that I really appreciated a big sky – after all, Montana is known as Big Sky Country. Although Iowa lacks the majesty of the Rocky Mountains, it does have big skies. Now, I find myself comforted by large, expansive vistas – and this day delivered that in full. The temperatures had dropped a touch and it was a bit breezy, but nothing to detract from an excellent day of cycling though fields and woodlands. In keeping with my stress-free theme, I gave in to the Flow Vélo, at least for a large part of the day. It was calm and relaxing cycling, nothing to worry about except perhaps meeting an occasional cyclist. Just then, I was stopped in my tracks by a large tractor and farm trailer blocking my path. Actually, there was very little traffic of any kind along the Flow Vélo, even when it zigged and zagged through small hamlets or villages.

Ready to leave Saintes and take advantage of this amazing day

Wall display in one of the pass-through villages. A woman actually stopped her car in the middle of the road to wait while I took the photo

Just before reaching Crazannes, I stopped to take a look at the Château de Crazannes, an historical monument built in the 14th century. I was dissuaded by the entry fee, so resorted to viewing the castle from behind a wall, through a gate, and, eventually, from across a cornfield. Even these glimpses revealed that the Château and it’s grounds may one day be worth a proper visit. After all, it is nicknamed Castle Puss in Boots, after the famous fairy tale. In Geay, I found a another churchyard with a bench in the shade to enjoy my usual lunch of Château cheese and bread, this time supplemented with a juicy tangerine.

Château de Crazannes from across a cornfield

Church in Geay where I stopped for lunch

At times, the directional signs for the Flow Vélo were confusing and deviated from the V92 OSM cycle route. For a stretch, I resorted to using the small parallel roads that I find quite enjoyable, but rejoined the cycle path in Romegoux, near where the Flow Vélo crossed the Charente River. Although less that 30 miles from Saintes, the river was low, wide and muddy - conditions that would remain through Rocheport. After crossing, I first noticed signs for La Vélodysséé, the name given to Eurovelo 1 as it runs through France. Onward, the route was well-signed, taking me right into the port at Rocheport, a couple of blocks from my lodging. I found a small restaurant serving pizza and Italian dishes and enjoyed a very satisfying dinner capped with dynamite chocolate mousse. After a day of easy terrain and near perfect weather, I felt quite refreshed and looking forward to tomorrow’s ride to the ocean.

Approaching the bicycle bridge across the Charente River

This is not the only boat I saw "beached" by the low river waters

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Today's ride: 35 miles (56 km)
Total: 317 miles (510 km)

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Jacquie GaudetThe Charente is very tidal at Rochefort. I think that was why the hours of operation of the little pedestrian/bike ferry near the Pont Transbordeur were so odd when I was there. It probably doesn't run when the tide is really low because the ramps would be too steep.
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