It was another damp and dreary morning when I left Villeneuve-sur-Lot, not the sort of day I wanted to spend time exploring the town. So, nothing to report about Villeneuve-sur-Lot, its attractions and whether you might like to visit. Perhaps another time. Lest you think that I’ve sunk into the weather doldrums, the day soon took a decided turn for the better, a lift to my spirits that no amount of foul weather could distinguish.
The first six miles or stayed north of the river on small roads through unremarkable landscapes. Turning south, the route crossed the Lot River at the towns of Saint-Sylvestre-sur-Lot and Penne-d’Agenais. I’d not bought provisions in Villeneuve-sur-Lot, so I stopped in a bakery in Saint-Sylvestre. It was pretty poor pickings, so I picked up a few chouquettes and a baguette. Crossing the bridge into Penne-d’Agenais, I spied a large artisanal bakery. Not one to be left without her mid-morning croissant, I parked Vivien George and went across the street for my pain aux raisin.
As I was stowing my treat in the handlebar bag, a woman approached me from the bakery. She was a cyclist and was quite interested in my mirror – it is the type that attaches to your glasses. She was not the first to ask about the mirror – it is probably the item that I get the most questions about, that and my massage stick. At any rate, the “bakery woman”, whose name is Nicole, was so enamored of the mirror that I gave her one of my spare mirrors and showed her how she could bend it around to make it work for her. Thrilled and delighted, she asked me over to her house for a cup of coffee – now that was an unexpected treat!
We crossed the street, bike in tow, up a few doors past the bakery. She opened a beautiful blue door to an otherwise nondescript façade and I entered a bright, spacious room with tiled floor, stone walls, and views of the Lot River. After introducing me to her husband Michel, who had been born in Penne-d’Agenais, the three of us sat in the kitchen talking of cycling, fishing and Yellowstone Park while I drank my coffee. A truly delightful couple, they sent me away with Agen prunes for strength, big hugs, and warm wishes for a safe journey. I replayed those 30 minutes off and on for the rest of the day, always with a big smile on my face, and in my heart.
Don't let the gloomy weather get you down - be happy!
From Penne-d’Agenais, the Lot Cycle Route follows closely along the river, primarily on small roads and occasional dedicated cycle paths. The surrounding landscape is quite varied – passing through riverside woodlands, orchards, small vegetable or livestock farms and, as you get farther east, the Cahor vineyards. It winds through many towns as it crosses from one side of the river to the other, and the route is not completely flat, especially as you move up river. It was an enjoyable, relaxed and interesting day with just enough weather intrigue to keep me from dawdling too much. As I neared Puy-l'Évêque, the sun came out and autumn colors were starting to dominate the wooded hillsides.
The town of Fumel was home of the Metal Aquitaine factory, founded in 1847 and specializing in complex steel and cast iron parts. The foundry closed in 2018, and current plans are to make the foundry an industrial museum, complete with flowing molten steel
As I approached the medieval town of Puy-l'Évêque, I was struck by the golden color of stone buildings perched above the Lot River. I took a few photos as I crossed the bridge entering the village, and then went out to explore a bit more before dinner. A series of stairs and walkways connect various sections of the village, taking you up to the church and tower and along the small streets of the old quarter. Across the river, the sun was just beginning to set, casting its magical light across the valley and illuminating the the golden stones of the village. After dinner, I walked back across the bridge for a view of the illuminated Puy-l'Évêque. Seeing the lights reflected in the river, I thought back to a comment Nicole had made earlier that day, about how my smile had emboldened her to approach me and ask about the mirror. Keep smiling!
