October 12, 2019
Gaillac
Before my brake woes, I had planned to head from Saint-Antonin to Albi, which had caught my attention when I was deep in the throes of shingles, laying on my couch and watching the Tour de France. The specifics of the route were a bit sketchy, but included a ride in the Tarn Gorge and stops in Cordes-sur-Ciel, Castres, and maybe Gaillac before ending in Toulouse where I would spend a couple of days before heading back to Paris on Friday.
Having already spent two days in Toulouse, I decided to go to Albi via the Tarn Valley Cycle route, thinking it would be a wonderful route through some of the old bastide towns along the river and a nice way to experience the Tarn valley. I left Toulouse just past ten and had no trouble navigating through the city on a quiet Saturday morning. However, my route took me northeast to the Tarn River on the “Albi Road”, a heavily traveled two lane road with a disappearing/reappearing shoulder. After five miles, I’d had enough of the traffic and found a somewhat less busy route that eventually gave way to the quiet rural roads that I prefer.
The landscape was a bit rolling, with farmland and pastures – the weather sunny, warm and windy. I crossed the Tarn River at the sleepy town of Buzet-sur-Tarn and cycled on a plane-tree lined main road until crossing back to the south/left side at bastide town of Rabastens-Couffouleux. Shortly thereafter, I joined the Tarn Valley vélo-route that followed small roads paralleling the river. However, the riverbank was lined with trees and I never actually saw the river except for one or two glimpses. The trees also obscured any views to the north of the river, and the land to the south was mostly flat and largely uninteresting. I did cross over the river for a brief visit to the lovely town of Lisle-sur-Tarn where I enjoyed an ice cream cone before heading off to Gaillac.
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My chambre d'hôte in Gaillac was in a medieval house reachable only by a series of cobbled stairways. It took a bit to find it, but once I did my host Cyril was very super helpful in directing me to the most bike-friendly access and helping me haul Vivien George and my bags up to our chambers. There was also a post-shower tray of fruit juice, water and treats awaiting me on the little terrace outside my room. Cyril provided me with a wealth of information about Gaillac and of things to do/see in town and in the area, including possible circuits between Albi and Cordes-sur-Ciel. Taking his advice, I explored a bit of the city and had a nice meal at his recommended establishment, an antique-decorated restaurant in which everything was for sale. All told, the day turned out to be a bit disappointing as far as the route was concerned but was redeemed by some beautiful towns, unique lodging, and a wonderful host, Cyril.
Today's ride: 45 miles (72 km)
Total: 996 miles (1,603 km)
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