Exploring Ile de Ré

September 20, 2019 to September 22, 2019

Friday, September 20

After a leisurely morning of coffee and journaling, I headed out to explore some of the villages of the island. Dominique had an old beater bike that I opted to use, knowing that I wouldn’t be riding a great distance. My first stop was the wonderful market in La Flotte, located pretty much across from Sainte-Marie-de-Ré on the other side of the island. Though I got a fairly late start, I hoped to get there before the 1 pm closing time. Ile de Ré is a cycling haven, with numerous bike paths running the length and breadth of the island. There are signs pointing you to all the towns and landmarks, so I easily found my way to La Flotte. However, I often fall into the trap of thinking every cyclist is going to the same place I am, and so I took a few wrong turns following folks not sharing my destination. When I finally arrived at the market several of the vendors were already packing up. Leaving the bike, I strolled over to the port which was encircled by numerous restaurants filled with lunch-goers. I briefly considering dining in La Flotte, but as I wasn’t ready for such a long break and I headed over to Sainte-Martin-de-Ré.

Sainte-Martin-de-Ré is encircled by several fortifications, reflecting the past role of Ile de Ré in the strategic defense of La Rochelle. Today, it has a lively scene and may be the most touristy town on the island. After an okay lunch at a semi-randomly chosen restaurant, I visited the church and wandered through some of the streets beyond the tourist alleys full of postcards, tee shirts, and tchotchkes.

In Sainte-Martin-de-Ré, I left the beater bike and helmet locked to the chain, like scores of others. I'd mistakenly left my water bottle in the basket, but it was still there when I returned after lunch.

It was almost five by the time I headed back across the island to the sleepy town of Le Bois-Plage-en-Ré, arriving hot and thirsty. My next stop was Plage du Grand Jonc, but in I moment of confusion at seeing directions for a Plage, I made a wrong turn and arrived back in Le Bois-Plage-en-Ré. I got back on track, this time not confusing my “Plages” and ended up on an expansive beach filled with sunbathers, swimmers, and those who like me are content to walk at the water’s edge. With shoes slung around my neck, I waded in, felt the wet sand squish between my toes, and headed up the beach. For some reason, idly walking along a beach evokes powerful memories of other such excursions – of long ago times with my mother, and of more recent times with my nieces and their children. I finally came out of my reverie and headed home, bombing away on an old city bike, just like when I was a kid.

Dogs can sleep undisturbed on the main thoroughfare of Le Bois-Plage-en-Ré

A more rocky section of Plage du Grand Jonc

Saturday, September 21

My plans for Saturday were to ride to the end of the island to Le Phare des Baleines, the Lighthouse of the Whales. However, the morning was cloudy, windy and cold and I was craving some more rest. I did some journaling and little bit of bike maintenance, including oiling the chain on the old beater bike. By the time Dominique returned from her morning errands, the day was sunny and warm and she was insistent that I go see the lighthouse. She also asked if I wanted to book another night and invited me to join her for dinner that evening at the local restaurant. As rain was predicted for tomorrow, I agreed with her on both counts, I gobbled down a late lunch and headed off, this time on Vivien George. It was about 18 miles to the lighthouse, including one or two wrong turns through villages and an unexpected construction detour. It was a Saturday on a holiday weekend, so the bike roads were quite busy. There was a bit of bobbing and weaving through bike traffic, but I had a pretty nice run up the island.

First lit in 1854, the lighthouse sits in the Parc des Baleines, which includes the older, shorter tower and a museum. I climbed the spiral staircase 60 meters to the top Le Phare, taking in views of the shoreline and the surrounding sea and countryside. I wandered a bit about the Parc and then indulged in a double scoop ice cream cone before heading back to the apartment. The bike path to and from the lighthouse passes through the salt marshes of Ile de Ré, an interesting and sometimes colorful landscape usually full of sea birds. Unlike yesterday, I skirted all of the towns and made it back home in time for a little rest and clean-up before dinner. Dominique and I walked the short distance into town and spent a wonderful evening exchanging stories of our past and present lives.

Heading up the spiral staircase to the top of Le Phare des Baleines

Looking east from the top of Le Phare des Baleines

Looking toward the northwest from the top of Le Phare des Baleines

I was a bit surprised to see actual piles of salt laying on the ground - guess I need to re-read Jacquie Gaudet's journal to learn more about the process

Evening view over Sainte-Marie-de-Ré from Dominique's balcony

Evening view toward the sea from Dominique's balcony

Sunday, September 22

Today was a rest day – the first bike free day. I spent the morning planning my route for the next few days. While I’m not comfortable going wholly by the seat of my pants, I am definitely enjoying the freedom and surprises of a flexible itinerary. About mid-morning, Dominique stopped by and invited me to join her and a friend for lunch on her balcony. But of course! And it was a very proper and delicious 5-course French Sunday lunch: melon; prawns; pot au feu (a stew in a heavy cast iron pot made by Renaud and transported here on his bike); cheese; and apricot compote – followed of course with coffee. Renaud is an architect and is building/rebuilding a house in town from what was formerly a stable with a hayloft. He invited us over to take a look after lunch, when his daughter was helping him lay pavers for an outdoor patio. Walking back home through the town and the vineyards, I reflected on the good will and warmth of those you chance to encounter while touring. If you are open to it, these encounters can develop into lasting friendships. I thank Dominque for her generous spirit and her friendship.

Dominique and Renaud ready to tackle the second course: prawns

Renaud's stable to house conversion project

Thank you Dominique for sharing your island with me

Though I have thoroughly enjoyed my stay on Ile de Ré, and know full well that there is much more of the island to explore, I’m ready to get back on my bike and hit the road.

Today's ride: 55 miles (89 km)
Total: 414 miles (666 km)

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	5
Comment on this entry	Comment	2

Kathleen JonesEnjoying the heck out of you enjoying the heck out of your travels the last few days. Great photos too. Thanks.
Reply to this comment
5 years ago

Susan CarpenterTo Kathleen JonesThanks Kathleen - it's always nice to hear from those who are enjoying the postings. I know I'm having loads of fun! -Susan
Reply to this comment
5 years ago