August 17, 2016
Day 2: Trail of the CdA: Heyburn State Park - Plummer - Harrison - Pinehurst
Pee in the River
Jeff swam in the lake, we drank our beers, then fell asleep early last night. This morning, after I splashed cold water on my face, we packed our tents, sleeping bags, and gear, then descended the steep dirt path from the hillside campground to the bike trail at the edge of the lake.
Our plan involved riding the last few miles of the trail west to its terminus in Plummer. From there we intended to make a U-turn and ride back to the lake, Harrison, and beyond.
Other than the easy ascent into Plummer and quick descent back to the lake, that meant we simply retraced most of yesterday's route. That was okay, because the trail proved just as inviting when eastbound as it had when westbound. In addition, we met river-loving locals and more riders today, including four long-distance tourers, among them a pair of crazyguys. All in all, Wednesday was another delightful day of riding on a smooth trail through picturesque landscapes in warm summer weather.
We had a couple of possibilities in mind for camping, and we continued to solicit opinions from people we met along the way.
We ended up in Pinehurst at the By the Way RV park. The facility included about four tiny tent spaces on the lawn, surrounded by gigantic metal monsters, most of which were parked for the entire summer. On the upside, Dave—the campground host—was an affable fellow, his facilities were spotless, and our neighbors were perfectly quiet, without a generator to be heard. On the downside, the nearby Interstate highway, on-ramp, and Pinehurst's main street delivered a constant roar of traffic all night long. Note to self: Next time, bring earplugs and/or more beer.
Summary
Date: 17 August 2016
Time: 8:00 - 5:00
Weather: 60-90° F
Route: From Chatcolet campground at Heyburn State Park west to Plummer, then back toward the east through Harrison, Cataldo, and Enaville to Pinehurst
Distance: 60 miles
Bike: Surly Long Haul Trucker
Riders: Bill and Jeff
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Veterans Memorial Park of the Coeur d'Alene Tribe in Plummer serves as the western terminus of the Trail of the Coeur d'Alenes, which Jeff and I reached after about eight gradual but steady uphill miles from the Chatcolet campground at Heyburn State Park.
The park is a touching, lovingly maintained tribute to Coeur d'Alene warriors and veterans who have served, fought, and perished in conflicts spanning more than a hundred years, in some cases defending the tribe against the encroaching United States, and in some cases defending the United States in wars overseas.
Jeff at Veterans Memorial Park of the Coeur d'Alene Tribe in Plummer.
Bill at Veterans Memorial Park of the Coeur d'Alene Tribe in Plummer.
Photo by Jeff.
Jeff and Bill at Veterans Memorial Park of the Coeur d'Alene Tribe in Plummer.
The eastbound trail begins by passing under US Route 95 at the edge of Plummer.
Plummer occupies the center of the Coeur d'Alene Reservation, which extends almost all the way to Harrison and includes a significant part of the trail. The tribe has been active in the development and management of the route.
Plummer includes at least one motel, grocery store, etc.
The bicycling couple from Seattle who we met in Kellogg on Monday evening told us they left their vehicle here when they started riding the trail. "The lady at the motel had a shotgun, so I gave her ten dollars and asked her to watch the car for a few days."
We made a quick stop at one of the hardware stores in Plummer so Jeff could pick up a roll of Gorilla Tape for a minor bike repair.
As we were leaving Plummer on the trail in order to ride back to where we started by the lake this morning, we met a woman on a bike who rode along with us for awhile. She and her husband own a summer cottage at Rocky Point on the lake, and she was heading there after working out at the wellness center and gym in Plummer. I neglected to get her photo.
After the long, gradual climb from the lake up to Plummer, the ride back down was fast and easy. We sailed along at about 25 MPH without much effort. The woman returning to Rocky Point was right there with us.
Back at the lake after returning from Plummer.
Chatcolet campground is up the hill to the right.
After riding west to Lake Coeur d'Alene yesterday, then to Plummer and back to the lake this morning, it was time to retrace our route on the trail to Harrison and beyond.
That gave us the opportunity to ride across the Chatcolet Bridge again.
The southwestern shore of Lake Coeur d'Alene.
I could tell it was still morning, because my towel still flapped off the back of the Surly.
Jeff studied the rising rollers on the Chatcolet Bridge.
Bill readied himself for riding up the roller coaster.
Photo by Jeff.
The Surly at the top of the Chatcolet Bridge.
Old Grumble-Face snapped a selfie on the Chatcolet Bridge.
Jeff's Trek contemplated screaming down the rollers.
Farewell to the Chatcolet Bridge.
The trail cut through rocky obstructions to get around the lake at a couple of places.
Jeff spotted something along the trail and stopped.
What's that munching on lunch in the marsh by the trail?
The moose is loose!
We finally met one of these big herbivores along the trail. At least I think they don't eat cyclists.
The trail follows another railroad cut beside the lake.
Looking west across Lake Coeur d'Alene.
Within a few miles we reached Harrison.
This photo shows just about the entirety of downtown, including the Harrison Trading Post on the left.
We pedaled up the hill to the Cycle Haus where Jeff bought a roll of handlebar tape.
A wall in downtown Harrison.
Note the artsy representation of a bicycle and rider.
One-Shot Charlies, with a row of bikes parked out front, seemed to be doing a booming business. Lots of morning drinking around here.
Jeff and I chose to eat lunch at the bandstand in the grassy park in Harrison, where we found shade, a cell signal, and convenient electrical outlets for charging phones.
From our picnic table we looked down at bikes on the trail with marina, convenience store, restaurant, and municipal RV park at the edge of the lake.
After lunch we pedaled a few miles east along the trail to the Springson trailhead. By the trailhead, a quiet road crosses the trail and then crosses the river on this one-lane bridge, which isn't part of the trail. We saw the bridge yesterday while riding west.
Today a few bicyclists, including Jeff, ventured onto the bridge where a local family was busy securing a long yellow rope to one of the girders.
What's up with that?
With the rope secured, one-by-one the dad and his three kids began swinging from the bridge and sailing into the river. There goes one of the boys.
There goes the daughter, flying through the air and about to land in the river with a mighty splash.
Ah, big fun on lazy summer days along the Coeur d'Alene River.
As usual, I restrained Jeff from leaping off the bridge into the river.
We left Springson trailhead behind and continued pedaling eastward on the trail.
Raking hay into windrows.
A gentle bend in the river and the trail.
Along here, still fairly close to the lake, the river is wide enough and deep enough for powerboats, jet skis, and swamp boats. We saw plenty of them.
A ranch along the trail.
More trailside scenery.
As we learned yesterday, sometimes the trail runs on a raised bed through shallow lakes and swampy ground.
Water and lily pads to the right of the trail.
Photo by Jeff.
Water and lily pads to the left of the trail.
A typical sign along the trail, this one at the Medimont Trailhead.
The Surly rested against a trailside bench while the boys consumed snacks and drinks in the afternoon heat.
Round bales of hay in a field along the trail.
Another stop overlooking the river along the trail.
Jeff and I met crazyguys Randy and Meg Foltz along the Trail of the Coeur d'Alenes.
These experienced long-distance tourers—they have several crazyguy journals—were completing a fully-loaded 60-mile training ride in preparation for their upcoming ACA group tour on Route 66.
Ducks along the trail.
An unusual part of the trail.
The trail passed through a cut and a road crossed above the trail.
Rather than stop for the day and spend the night at the Kahnderosa campground in Cataldo, we decided to continue pedaling.
Other than the campground and post office, this looked like the only business remaining in Cataldo, and the sign says "owner retiring."
Last break for food and water before calling it quits for the day.
Another bridge along the trail on the way to Enaville.
Near here we saw four ten-year-old boys on bikes hanging out by the river.
"How's the water?" I inquired.
"It's great," one shouted back. "I just peed in it."
Jeff and I met Oleg along the Trail of the Coeur d'Alenes as he headed west to the Kahnderosa campground in Cataldo.
Originally from Ukraine, but living in Toronto for twenty years, Oleg—aboard a Surly Ogre with a broken Brooks saddle—was nearing the end of a long, winding cross-continental tour. He seemed very relieved that he only had a few more days of riding, and he entertained us with amusingly barbed comments about various areas he'd passed through, elderly RV drivers, and US politics.
As we learned yesterday, the road in Enaville is in the middle of a construction project, and the trail temporarily makes a slight detour. The flaggers made sure we were okay.
Rather like Cataldo, there doesn't seem to be much left in Enaville.
The Snake Pit might be the only reason to go to Enaville.
We talked to a couple of road construction guys who assured us the bar has an amply supply of cold beer. They seemed to be speaking from experience.
Jeff and I met this shirtless westbound rider along the Trail of the Coeur d'Alenes as we headed east toward Pinehurst.
He never quite told us his name—"I'm just a bicycling fool"—but declared he knew this trail and every other route in the country like the back of his hand. We didn't question him too closely about that. He seemed rather amused that we were riding real touring bikes, carrying real panniers, and aiming for a real campground.
Hey, Bicycling Fool, we're just old men collecting Social Security!
In Pinehurst we ended the day at the By the Way RV park in tent site number one, surrounded by a menagerie of oversized vehicles that dwarfed our bikes. Better, I suppose, to be so close to them here, where they're stationary, rather than jousting with them out on the road at sixty MPH.
Today's ride: 60 miles (97 km)
Total: 109 miles (175 km)
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