Our four day spell of perfect cycling weather passed in the night when a small weather disturbance passed through and brought a bit of rain to Cefalu. It sounded more serious in the mountains to the south where we would be cycling today though, so we decided to wait around in the hotel lobby as long as possible hoping it would pass through in time. By noon it looked like the rain was just stopping, so we started off. Our timing was perfect - as we cycled along the lungomare the last of the open umbrellas began to furl.
Our ride begins by backtracking along the coast to the east for five miles or so. When we arrived in Cefalu we didn't care for biking through its tunnel beneath the face of the Rocca, so we decided to leave town close to the water through the small streets of the old town, joining the highway on the other side of the tunnel. It is a bit of a slow go, especially because the easiest grade is going the wrong way up narrow, cobblestoned Via Emannuelle. We pushed our way through about a quarter mile of this because the street was busy with pedestrian and car traffic and the stones were still wet and slick. A bit of a nuisance, but it felt well worth it to avoid the tunnel.
Almost as soon as we left the coast and began climbing into the mountains, it began raining again. It was about lunchtime anyway, so we decided to look for a dry spot to have lunch and hope that it would pass on in the meantime. The only place we could find was on the narrow shoulder of the highway, beneath a railroad overpass. Not so scenic, but it worked - by the time we started riding again the rain had stopped.
We loitered around at our hotel in Cefalu all morning waiting for the rain to pass by. When we left just after noon the last umbrellas were just being furled.
We left Cefalu through the back door, passing through the old town and staying by the water to avoid a tunnel on the coast highway. Here we are cycling by what remains of the megalithic Greek walls, dating from the fifth or fourth century BC.
Soon after leaving the coast we caught up with the rains again so we stopped for an early lunch beneath a railway overpass, the only shelter we could find. The milk bottle in the road is an alert to drivers rounding the bend to give us a wide berth. Contrary to appearances, I don't usually haul along a liter of milk or a safety cone. This one is a substitute for a water bottle that disappeared a few days back.
For the next few miles, to about Castelbueno, the weather was marginal. We were right at the edge of the receding rains - behind us to the north, the skies were clearing; and ahead they were still dark. It felt like we were hauling the good weather uphill with us. At one point we caught up with the rain again and sheltered under a small overhang in a driveway. Within about two minutes it had stopped, and after that we were dry for the rest of the day. By the time we reached Geraci Siculo, the sun broke out all around and riding was very pleasant.
After steadily but gradually climbing for about twenty miles, we peaked out at about 3,500'. The remaining few miles until the final climb into Petralia Soprana were beautiful rolling along in the sun, back on SS120, the road we so enjoyed riding west from Randazzo. Because of our late start, we arrived late - after six, with just enough time to check in, shower, and head out for a meal.
Petralia Soprana, at an elevation of about 3,700 feet, is the highest town in Palermo's district. It has a belvedere with massive views, including to Mount Etna. Not tonight though - we had to be content with views of the surrounding valleys filled to overflowing with clouds and fog.
