To Castellammare de Golfo: On the road again

April 23, 2016

Note: as of March 2023 I think this route over Monte Pellegrino is no longer possible. The road down the west side is totally barricaded at the top, apparently because is either so damaged from slides or at risk from rockfalls.

We packed up and left our hotel early (for us at least - about 9 this time), happy to be on our bikes after yesterday's fright, anxious to get started before Palermo's traffic picks up. After the unnerving taxi drive from the airport we've been worried about how this would go. It turned out to be just fine though - there is a primitive bike lane (translation: a somewhat irregular, somewhat poorly maintained sort-of sidewalk) along the harbor, which carried us most of the way to our turnoff to the road up Mount Pellegrino.

On the western edge of town we had a lovely quiet stretch along a residential road that parallels the coast highway; but we soon found that it dead ended - the first of a series of navigation mistakes that cropped up throughout the day. On this road we were harassed by a loud, insistent dog loose in the road and indignant that we were crossing his domain. It was nice that we could entertain him again on our way back from our dead end.

In spite of this though, leaving Palermo was much easier than either of us expected. No big deal at all, and no reason that we saw to avoid it. Along this route at least it went quickly, and within five miles we left the city and traffic behind and entered the large protected parkland encompassing Mount Pellegrino.

Leaving Palermo, westbound for the climb of Mount Pellegrino. There's an easier and shorter way west, along the coast beneath the mountain, but don't take it. If you're going our direction, don't pass up this wonderful climb.

The climb up Mount Pellegrino is wonderful. The bikers from Palermo (and we saw many on this climb) are lucky to have it so close to the city. Just five miles away, and you're in a totally different world - quiet, peaceful, green, beautiful. The fifteen hundred foot climb to the summit is very consistent, very gradual - a steady 3-4% grade that switchbacks up the east side of the mountain, with the views back across Palermo improving with each bend. The predominant vegetation at lower elevations is eucalyptus and pine, but soon cactus is prominent. At the summit, a short spur veers off to the north, ending at an overlook with beautiful views of the Tyrrhenean Sea and the next ridge to the west.

A great climb; easily the second best part of the day.

Looking back at Palermo, still low on the climb of Mount Pellegrino.

Maquis and prickly pear, Mount Pellegrino

Overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea from the belvedere at the top of Mount Pellegrino

Returning from the belvedere, we rejoin to the main road and start down the west side. Immediately we come to a barricade - this side is closed to cars! We (the bikers and hikers, for we have company) have the road to ourselves as the road drops steeply through a series of crazy-tight switchbacks that cross under themselves through a short tunnel - it reminds me of the descent from Rocky Butte back in Portland.

If anything the views on this side are even better than on the east, overlooking Mondello sprawled across the valley with Capo Gallo rising above it. After passing through the tunnel, the road hugs the base of high, sheer reddish cliffs; at their base, once we leave pass the lower barricade and start seeing a few cars again, teams of rock climbers are preparing for an assault. Soon enough we bottom out and coast into the outskirts of Mondello.

A supergreat descent; easily the best part of the day.

Rachael rounding the bend of the next switchback below.

Mondello blankets the valley between Mount Pellegrino and Cape Gallo.

Dropping through the tunnel where the switchbacks cross under themselves.

On the descent of Mount Pellegrino. The ascent was wonderful, but the descent is even better. Great views west of the mountain, spectacular cliffs, spaghetti road. Best of all, the top half is closed to cars. Awesome.

Looking back on our descent of Mount Pellegrino. The three large bands on the mountain are retaining walls beneath sections of the road.

For the rest of the day we work our way west along the coast, skirting south of Cape Gallo and then passing through a string of resort villages. Navigation is fairly confusing through here, with the auto route, the secondary highway and local village streets all snake through the narrow band of flattish land along the coast. I had our planned route mapped out on the GPS, but the plan broke down in a few spots - once due to a road closure, and once due to an apparently nonexistent road at the end of a two mile spur. Rerouting added about five miles to our planned distance, but it was all good - beautiful scenery, spectacular coastline, rugged ridges that remind us of Greece.

The trunk of a capok tree. I think this is the best defended tree species I've ever seen.

A close up of the trunk of a capok tree. It makes me curious how these trees were harvested in the past.

Capok will be best known to some as a stuffing material, such as for children's toys. I don't know if it is still used this way or if it's been completely replaced by synthetics.

I should have kept better track of where we were along this stretch of the coast. I think this is taken from just west of Sferracavallo, looking across its bay to the headland of Capo Gallo, but I'm not certain.

This must be San Cataldo or nearby. I don't see a name on the map for the cloud capped formation behind it, but I'll keep looking.

I think this beautiful red gneiss cliff is just west of Trappeto. It was soon after here that we began having navigation issues and wasted five or six miles chasing down dead ends.

At the Piazzetta Hotel. Hooray, a new first for us! After all these years of touring, this is the first time we were given the womens restroom for our bike storage.

We finally make it to our hotel a bit after 6:30 - just in time to clean up and head off to the waterfront for dinner. We have a terrific (and inexpensive - everything seems quite inexpensive so far) meal, starting with an amazing Santilian antipasto plate, followed by swordfish, Sicilian style. The appetizer plate was especially good - sun dried tomatoes, eggplant, spinach, cheese, peppers, chickpea fritters. I could have happily made a full meal of just the appetizers.

It is dark when we left the restaurant. We walk along the waterfront for a bit, but not too long - the wind has picked up considerably, and it feels chillier than the sixty degrees it actually is. Soon enough we head back to the room and crash for the night, still working our systems onto the local time.

Days since the last crisis: 1!

Cumulative elevation gain: 3,800'.

Overlooking the harbor at Castellammare Del Golfo

Today's ride: 61 miles (98 km)
Total: 61 miles (98 km)

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