Reflections: About Sicily - Our tour of Sicily - CycleBlaze

May 27, 2016

Reflections: About Sicily

We have nothing but praise for Sicily as a bike touring destination. About three days into our ride we started fantasizing about returning some day; and by the end of the tour we were talking in terms of when, not if. This is such a diverse island, and appealing in so many different ways - it feels like a distillation of all of our favorite things about cycle touring in Europe.

If you've followed along on the journal, you've of course seen already much of what we saw - the range of spectacular historical and cultural attractions, the striking landscapes, the rich network of all but deserted minor roads through the interior. I won't go through that again, but here are some overall impressions to add, in no particular order.

We found the people here to be very open, helpful and warm. I can't think of a single frustrating personal encounter, but a number of very positive ones come immediately to mind.

By Western European standards, this is a very inexpensive place to visit - more so than other places in Italy we have toured. Cost-wise, it feels similar to Greece and Iberia. I think it would be quite easy to fashion a very budget oriented tour that stayed in low cost but satisfactory B&B's or inns, ate out of markets and so on. We aren't really budget travelers, but just to use our own experience as an example: we stayed primarily in B&B's, and the typical cost for a double with breakfast was about 70 euros. In smaller and less touristy spots 50 euros was about the norm. We were staying at highly rated places that could be booked online, so I assume that less expensive options were generally available also.

In general we found the lodging quality to be very high. Many of our stays were in interesting centuries-old structures, often recently renovated, in the heart of the historical part of town. A number of them had exceptional spreads for breakfast, but the norm was more typical Italian breakfast fare - coffee, croissants, sweets, fruit, the usual. We would return to nearly all of them, but these in particular stood out as ones we recommend:
Realmonte: Villa deal Saraceno
Licata: Grangeola B&B
Enna: Antica Dimora Hotel
Piazza Armerina: Antichi Quartieri Hotel
Taormina: Hotel Victoria
Siracusa: Salotto di Maria Pia
Petralia Soprana: Hotel Rezidenza
Randazzo: Ai Tre Parchi Bed and Bike
Mazara del Vallo: Cortile Sant Agustino B&B
Palazzolo Acreide: Kalura B&B

If you do stay at any of these, you might show them our photo, say hello for us, and let them know we recommended them:

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Comment on this entry Comment 13
John ElsonHi Scott and Rachael
I thought I had posted a question on your site but I can’t see it now - the usual techno incompetence!
Briefly, I was alarmed to see your Sicily account disappear from CGOAB just as we were planning to emulate it; a little research in the forums there and I think I understand your migration to Cycle Blaze. Your journal looks great here - but I miss the maps. Any chance they’re lurking in ridewithgps or somewhere like that?
Regardless, thanks for approximately a life time of cycling inspiration for us and our little Bike Friday’s!
Cheers
John and Chris
Campbell River
Vancouver Island
Reply to this comment
6 years ago
Scott AndersonTo John ElsonI miss the maps myself, John. I think they’re an important component of the journal. They didn’t come across when the older journals were ported over from Crazy Guy, although I have them in the unloads I made before dropping my account there. CycleBlaze doesn’t support maps yet, although I understand plans are in the works for it. I’m waiting for that before doing anything with my older tours.

On the only tour I’ve blogged from scratch here (Around a Pretty Big Island), I included links to maps on RideWithGPS. I’ll probably continue with that solution until Jeff implements map support as part of the app.

And thanks for the kind words! And why did this comment come up on the Sicily journal - are you thinking of going there? If you aren’t, you should be! It’s an amazing place. Let me know if you’re wanting to see them for your own planning purposes, and I’ll post them somewhere.

And Campbell River! We’re neighbors - we should pop in sometime.

Cheers,
Scott
Reply to this comment
6 years ago
Scott AndersonTo John ElsonOh - if only I could read! I see you are planning on going to Sicily. Lucky you! How soon are you going? I’ll start posting the maps into the journal, as links from ridewithgps.
Reply to this comment
6 years ago
John ElsonHi Scott,
We leave for Sicily on March 12 for 4 weeks. We’re probably pushing the season, but living in the PNW means one has good rain gear!
If you had a chance to post links to the maps we’d be grateful - albeit a bit guilty for not doing the extensive research ourselves. I don’t like our chances of finding those little roads in your photos on our own (at least not intentionally).

We enjoyed your Big Island journal a lot. It’s been on our short list for a while, but we were encouraged to see that there were accommodation options for every night. And, of course, your latest adventure takes the cake.

Anyway, thanks for your kind help and keep posting great journals. As you say, we’re effectively neighbours and I hope our paths cross before too long.
Cheers,
John
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6 years ago
Scott AndersonTo John ElsonSeems like you should be fine that early, as long as you know what to expect. We’ll be anxious to see how it goes for you, because it’s in our plans also - next Spring. We’re thinking we’ll head there about the first of March, bike east through Basilicata and Puglia, and then head north through the Balkans.

I’ll start working on the maps when I can find the time over the next week or two, so just keep track on the journal to see how it’s progressing. I’ll do it from memory because it will be faster than funding and opening up the download, but it should be pretty accurate.

Scott
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6 years ago
John ElsonTo Scott AndersonThanks, Scott!
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6 years ago
Scott AndersonTo John ElsonSo I’ve started, and l8nked in the first 5. I suspect it will take about a week to complete, I imagine. It doesn’t take long, but I’m spacing it out. Let me know if you see any obvious errors, such as linking in the wrong map. Also, be forewarned - these aren’t tracks - they’re routes drawn from memory. They’re pretty accurate though, I think.
Reply to this comment
6 years ago
John ElsonTo Scott AndersonThat’s brilliant, Scott - I hope it isn’t an epic task. It will be a huge help to us to have this beta; maybe we can stay off the autostrada for once! I feel a little less guilty thinking that it will be helpful to others, too.
Grazie mille,
John
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6 years ago
Scott AndersonTo John ElsonDone! Burn viaggio!

Ciao,
Scott
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6 years ago
John ElsonTo Scott AndersonFantastic, Scott! We won’t have quite the time you had (and quite possibly not the legs) but these routes will be really useful! We’ll let you know how things transpire; in the meantime, good luck with your next cycle/life adventures.
Wishing you nothing but tailwinds,
John
PS We spent a bit of time touring S Italy off season - “Three weeks in Italy” on CGOAB if you’re interested
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6 years ago
Scott AndersonTo John ElsonHey, John. Did you make it to Sicily? How did it go?

Cheers,
Scott
Reply to this comment
6 years ago
John ElsonTo Scott AndersonHi Scott,
Indeed we did - you and I have even had a short email conversation about it but I can no longer find it. It must be attached to another page in this journal. In short, it was great! We did a truncated version of your route, riding for just 20 days. It was unseasonably wet and cool but warmed up for the last week or so. We were so grateful for your route advice (those maps!!) and found ourselves in agreement with so many of your observations.
Now, of course, we have dreams of Greece and Albania. Thanks to you we have an even longer list of objectives to meet in a shrinking window.
Looking forward to following your next adventure!
Cheers
John
Reply to this comment
6 years ago
Scott AndersonYes, you definitely should consider Greece and Albania. If you’ve never been to Greece and can only go once, I’d probably start with western Crete.

I reread the whole thread, and saw that you were interested in the Big Island. I’d say you missed your chance on that one for awhile, unless you avoid the southeast. I can’t believe our luck on the timing of that ride - I recognized some of those lava-split roads in the news reportage.
Reply to this comment
6 years ago