In Erice: Loop ride to Trapani

April 25, 2016

We awoke to a clear, cold, windy morning in Erice, 2500' above the sea below. We briefly discussed whether it wouldn't be a great day to sleep in a bit, take a hike on the mountain and poke around the town (my idea, not Rachael's of course), but shook it off and chose to stay with the plan - a 50 mile circuit of Mount Eryx (the one we slept on last night and that gives Erice it's name), with a stop to look around Trapani along the way.

First then, breakfast, which was great. We were the only diners this morning, and from all evidence the only guests at the hotel. Late April is still off-season here, which works well for us - fewer crowds, quieter roads, and lower rates (an aside: this is proving to be a very inexpensive vacation, even by our extravagant standards. A more frugal traveler could visit Sicily very inexpensively and very well at this time of year).

First though, a humerous incident from yesterday's breakfast in Castellammare that I omitted in yesterday's post. Before breakfast, Rachael and I were looking through photos on my iPad together. We then walked to the dining area, roughly 30 feet from our third floor room. Before sitting down, I walked out on the balcony to take in the beautiful view of the bay.

After breakfast we returned to our room and I reached for my iPad. Not in sight. I asked Rachael where she'd hidden it, but she claimed innocence. So, thinking I might have taken it to breakfast, I returned to the dining room, looked around, but didn't see it anywhere. Back to the room and Rachael, for another look. No luck. A bit of panic ensues - maybe I left it in the dining room and someone absconded with it?

Back to the dining room, this time bearing Rachael's iPad as a visual prop. I flashed it around, and two gents sitting on the balcony looked up, startled, and handed mine to me. They apparently found it on the table when they sat down, mistook it for a coaster or something, and plopped their ashtray on it. Luckily they left no cigarette burns.

So, back to today. We began our day by stopping at the balcony overlooking the sea and coastline to the northwest. Stunning.

After that we took the plunge, dropping off the mountain in a cold, exhilarating descent of the road we had climbed up last night. It was a challenging ride because of the strong gusting winds that wrestled with us for control on every switchback. After dropping 2500' in seven miles, we arrived at the coast and turned south toward Trapani,

Trapani juts out on a narrow peninsula, about eight miles down the coast from us. The first mile or two was on an unpaved path right next to the water, where we progressed slowly, cycling against a strong northwest wind, stopping often to admire the effects of the wind - churning waves, gulls kiting above, surf pounding the rocks and blowing spray into the sky. In spots the shore was lined with a dense, bushy, thin bladed seaweed of some sort. The waves splashing against it rose up like dark mud or chocolate, filled with tiny shards of shattered seaweed that were forced aloft and then floated down again.

Unfortunately this didn't last though, and we were back on the road for several miles - two lanes, shoulderless, a bit tight in spots, a bit uncomfortable - the urban planners need to improve this stretch a bit. It's a beautiful ride when you can look up and around though, with the blue/white sea to the right and Mount Eryx rising to the left.

The last bit was the best, on a paved seaside promenade atop the seawall that protects the city from the sea. We didn't see any other bikers this morning, but there were many people out enjoying the morning - strollers, runners, photographers trying to capture just the right effect of the wind and waves.

Erice, from below by the coast. Yesterday, the top of the mountain was totally fogbound.

For a short while we enjoyed this pleasant walking path, imagining it would carry us all the way to Trapani; but it ended after a mile or two and left us on busy, narrow Via de Mare most of the way to the city.

I have no idea what these ruins are, but they're just offshore a bit north of Trapani.

The brown airborn debris is scraps of seaweed. Waves crashing against the shore would blow them aloft to drift down after the wave had receded.

Trapani. Riding into the city from the north this morning was arduous but thrilling. Propelled by winds gusting to 30 mph, wave after wave of breakers crashed continuously against the shoreline and sea wall.

The sea wall guarding the northern shore of Trapani's peninsula.

We arrived in Trapani a bit before lunchtime. After wandering through its attractive old town for a bit, we were lured into one of the many eateries lining its pedestrianized main street. We shared a collection of small plates - a small sandwich, a cheese and rice ball of some sort, and caponata. This is the third time we've had caponata now, a traditional Sicilian eggplant side dish. It's been a bit different each time, but always delicious. We're still waiting for the Sicilian meal we haven't thoroughly enjoyed.

The astronomical clock on the oldest gate to the city, Trapani.

The main street through the old city, Trapani.

For Bill Stone's viewing pleasure: team selfie, Trapani.

When we came out from lunch, the weather had changed significantly. It was overcast, chilly, and looked like it could rain at any minute. For the next ten miles we raced inland through flat fields of grain, gliding along at about eighteen miles per hour before a terrific tailwind. A few sprinkles made us anxious that we would get caught in a sudden downpour, miles from the nearest tree or shelter. By the time we turned northward again though, conditions improved immediately; and within minutes we were back in the sun, biking through the same lovely hills east of Erice that we had traversed yesterday. Before long we were again at the foot of the mountain, repeating yesterday's long climb to the summit.

Rachael's video clip of the descent from Erice and along the coast

Cumulative elevation gain: today, 3,600'; total, 12,500'

A few poppies in the mix, east of Erice.

Mount Eryx (the peak upon which Erice sits), seen from the southeast.

A switchback on our second ascent to Erice. I took a photo from this same spot yesterday, but it didn't really work then - too late in the day, and too many shadows.

The Norman Castle at Erice; also known as the Venus Castle

In Erice, walking back to our room after dinner. What this photo doesn't show is how cold it was. Within two blocks of leaving the restaurant we both had the shakes.

In Erice, walking back to our room after dinner. What this photo doesn't show is how irked Rachael is with me for stopping for one last shot. Too cold!

Today's ride: 50 miles (80 km)
Total: 147 miles (237 km)

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