Beam me up Scotty

June 20, 2023

Only rode 39 miles today, from West Fork Campground to West Yellowstone. This is a constant uphill with elevation gain of about 2000 feet or so. The few steep sections I rode with no more than five or 6% grade and the rest was flat or 1 to 2%. Problem was I again had a headwind or sometimes a nasty cross wind.
There are several places where one might get food and drink along this route however, none of them were open. I did stop at a little café that is part of a cabin rental facility. It was right on the Madison River. So the store was open and had snacks and fishing supplies for the many fly fisherman that frequent this area, the café was closed until tomorrow. The proprietor said that she could not find anyone to work. Sounds like the rest of the country. She’s open Wednesday through Saturday only

This place was a kick back to the 50s. The cabins were all neatly arranged in a wooded and grassy area right along the river. It would be a great place to stay for a week or two. The café/store was paneled with old tongue and groove pine with fishing memorabilia dating back to at least a 50s. There was a radio playing 50s crooning music. If the guy sitting next to me didn’t have his laptop open, I would swear in my delusional tired state that I had been transported to another decade.

I had a great conversation with the gentleman who works in the flyfishing supply area. There were thousands of hand tied flies to select from as well as materials to make your own. Some of the rods and reels were incredibly expensive. I think the most expensive reel was $850. The cheapest was around 250. We discussed expensive fishing costs here and on the Chesapeake. I’m always amazed at the folks at home who spend thousands and thousands on boats, trailers, pick up trucks to go fishing and catch just a few fish each year. This gentleman, a fly fishing company rep, thought it was a bit crazy for the fly fisherman who frequent these streams and rivers to spend thousands of dollars to catch fish that must be released. You can’t keep anything you catch here. Anyway he makes a decent living from those folks.

Speaking of flyfishing, these rivers and streams are full of fishermen, either standing in the middle of the water, or floating down in drift boats. I’m amazed at the number of people out here fishing, especially today when it was cold, Windy, and cloudy. Of course, here I am riding my bike up and down these crazy hills, while the cold wind tries to blow me backwards and sideways.

The most interesting geologic feature of the ride today, other than the incredible snow capped mountains visible in every direction, was an area of landslide that dammed the Madison river, causing a lake and destroying a campgrounds and roadway. This happened some years ago at Reynolds pass. Back in 1860 Mr. Raynold explored the area and remarked how flat this Pass was compared to other passes through these mountains. He was probably correct because the Madison River has cut a nice channel through the mountains, causing a fairly flat pass. However, the earthquake that caused a landslide that caused the lake and took out the road also caused the state of Montana to build a crazy 6% grade Hill to get around this new obstruction. But all in all it was the easiest pass I’ve gone over thus far.

So tonight I am resting in an old fashioned motel room that is now an Airbnb. I’m in the town of West Yellowstone, which is incredibly expensive. It’s a tourist location due to the proximity to Yellowstone national park. The town must have no zoning regulations as there are new fancy motels and homes intermingled with rundown, mobile homes and campers serving as houses. And it’s kind of like being in Ocean City only instead of having the boardwalk or the main drag there are blocks and blocks of restaurants, casinos, bars, and junk shops. Tomorrow I make my way through the park heading east towards Cody Wyoming. I have thus far seen no bears or bison. I’d like to see bison before I leave, but Montana can keep their bears.

PS: there was a sign on the side of the road today that read drive carefully, animals on roadway. I didn’t say what kind of animals. Were they ducks crossing the road? Antelope? Coyotes? Wolves? Bears? Were they herbivores or omnivores? Where they maneaters? I mean here I am on a bike, unprotected by steel and glass as other vehicles were, and there’s a sign that basically says I may be meeting my doom just up the road, around the corner. They could at least provide a clue as to what kind of animals I may be eaten by. But, alas, I saw only Osprey, geese, and great blue herons on the lakes I passed.

PPS: I crossed a milestone today. I finished the ACA TransAm map #4. Moving onto map #1 of Parks,Peaks,and Prairies, Yellowstone to Gillette, 398 miles. Not sure I like the Peaks part of this one. And hoping for a tail wind through the Prairies.

Today's ride: 39 miles (63 km)
Total: 869 miles (1,399 km)

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