August 26, 2024
Day 8: From hard time to a slice of heaven.
Ovando to Llama Ranch.
Today started great. You’d think doing hard time in the jail would be terrible sleep but apparently that’s not the case in Ovando, Montana. We got up at 6 again but had less clean up so we waited for the Stray Bullet to open for breakfast at 7 AM.
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We were the first in and it didn’t take long for our cups to be full of coffee and omelettes ordered. The restaurant started to fill up and talk was that fall was in the air and what’s happening with the filming. Out waitress Chrissy was talking with some other customers about school just starting and hunting season approaching. We met someone from the crew who lived where Yellowstone was filmed and she was on the crew. Breakfast was delicious and we lingered waiting for the grocery store to open at 8. Filled up with groceries for a day and a half we were on our way by 8:30.
The first 30 km of riding was beautiful starting on quiet paved roads and turning to flat gravel through picturesque farmlands.
Then it was into climbing again for over 600 m. Along the way up the hill we finally came upon other riders. We’ve felt like we have the trail completely to ourselves. We talked with them for a bit while riding and learned they were from Idaho and planning to do the entire route. We passed them and continued up the trail stopping for lunch at the peak of the climb at 11:30. We had a repeat of wraps for lunch and that may become a staple. Our new friends arrived and we formally introduced ourselves and Peter shared and learned some intel about the trail.
After lunch we enjoyed the descent and then rolled into a town called Lincoln to grab a few more groceries. Coincidentally we met Molly and Alan there as well.
We continued on because we knew there was a big climbing afternoon. I noticed we had cell service so I made a call while riding. I’ve done this 3 times now and it’s a better experience for me than the other end. I’ve been told it sounds like I’m in a creek while riding downhill.
The climbing started easy and ended with a 1.5 km hike-a-bike up rocky hard pack. It would be possible to ride it fresh and without a loaded bike. It was pretty exhausting! But with every good climb you there’s another great descent. And we knew at the end of the descent was a great treat because we’d arrive at the Llama Ranch.
The Llama Ranch is legendary on the Great Divide trail. John and Barbara own the farm complete with 7 or 8 cabins, outdoor showers, outhouse and free beer, drinks and sandwiches. It’s out of this world hospitality! Each cabin has beds, blankets, and food. And all for free. All they ask is that you pay it forward.
It’s been a very special experience that’s not yet over. We made pancakes slathered in peanut butter and topped with multiple servings of syrup. So delicious after a hard day of riding.
Tomorrow we’ll get up and have a breakfast repeat and be on our way to Helena. If you are following the maps that will end section 2 (all maps are interactive if you click on them).
Highlights:
-Meeting Molly and Alan from Idaho
-Ovando - everything about it was fantastic
-Morning ride in the valley
-descent after lunch
-John and Barbara at the Lama Ranch and the amazing hospitality
Distance- 99.5 km with 1534 m of elevation gain
Today's ride: 100 km (62 miles)
Total: 931 km (578 miles)
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