August 25, 2024
Day 7: Headed to Jail
Wilderness to Ovando
Last night the temperature dropped steadily throughout the night. That makes things challenging because we are both using summer sleeping bags rated to 1 C. We did this because there is a significant weight penalty for insulation. My bag weighs only 1 pound, whereas my winter bag weighs 3 pounds and it’s way bigger to pack. I added layers throughout the night and this is likely to happen throughout our journey. The camp was at 1200 m.
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We ate sugary quick oats for breakfast and hit the trail bundled up by 7:15 AM. We talked briefly about the next day and when Peter said it was 50 km I thought nothing of it. I figured it would be no problem and we’d roll into Seely Lake for coffee and breakfast. It turned out to be a very, very challenging climb after a big day the previous day. My hands and feet were cold but then my chest was sweating from the climbing.
We seemed to climb forever but after a very slow 29 km and nearly 1000 m of elevation gain we reached the peak. Most of the climbing was on gravel but the last push was up single track. Along the way we were pealing layers of clothing but when we got to the top at 2000 m it was chilly so we both layered up for the descent. We were rewarded with great scenery at the top.
On the descent we were on single track for a good section. I’ve seen so many different bike setups for this trip from gravel bikes with drop bars to various different mountain bike setups. For much of the riding I’d possibly prefer a gravel bike for the speed and reduced rolling resistance. On this descent I felt more at home and confident on my mountain bike. With 2.8” tires we are certainly giving up on speed for a bit more comfort.
It seemed to take forever to get to Seeley Lakes, partly because in my head I thought we’d be there just after 10 AM. I ate my last food at 1030 as we continued to push up the final descent. And we arrived at almost 12:30 and decided to find a place for breakfast. Unfortunately breakfast was over at Pop’s so we enjoyed burgers and oatmeal cookies. We need to recharge the groceries and find camp stove fuel which required a few stops.
Back on the bikes just before 3 pm we still had 50 km to Ovando. The morning was certainly draining but the afternoon lifted my spirits after filling up at lunch. The ride was all gravel but very scenic with a fantastic descent with beautiful pastures, horses, cows and continuous mountain views.
We arrived to a treat in Ovando. Free accommodations at the local jail. We also could have staying in the covered wagon or the teepee. I’m guessing that riders significantly contribute to the economy of 50 people and 100 dogs.
Sadly, in 2021, sadly a woman was mauled by grizzly bear in Ovando while biking the Great Divide and right in town. The bear evidently was habituated and raiding chicken coops in the area. Looking around the town and countryside it seems like the least likely place for this horrible incident. We are taking all precautions to avoid any contact with bears.
The town shows the effect of the incident with bear caches and signs. The people are very friendly. When we arrived Skip from across the street quickly came over, welcomed us, and gave us the run down on the accommodations, breakfast spot, water location and restrooms. There is a movie shoot happening nearby so the little town is truly hopping compared to a very quiet existence I imagine.
Tonight we hope to enjoy our sleep in the jail, up for breakfast at the Stray Bullet for breakfast, load up again with groceries and start our ride for Lama Ranch which promises to be another big climb. We are now a day ahead of our plan.
Highlights:
-Ovando is a really cool little town and we feel very welcomed
-Lunch at Pop’s
-Afternoon descent and views
Snickers count - 5
Wildlife - deer and more deer
105.5
1569 m
Today's ride: 106 km (66 miles)
Total: 831 km (516 miles)
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