Day 36: From the Toaster House to wilderness.

September 24, 2024

We woke up this morning at 6 and cleaned up our stuff in the Toaster House and prepared breakfast. We were the first up and then another rider woke up. We tried to be quiet for the others still sleeping as they told us the night before they don’t get up until 7. It was an interesting experience being there. I never really felt that comfortable because it was similar to a youth hostel arrangement but in someone’s home. You were told to ‘make yourself at home’ but it just all felt a bit odd to me. And this is all completely in my head because everyone there was nice and enjoying either the hiking or the biking trail.

We talked a bit with the German hiker who was there the night before. He was seemingly hiking solo and he had been on the trail already for 4 months. At one point I thought it was a distant possibility I’d try the PCT (Pacific Crest Trail) but seeing how long it takes and how I now feel after just 37 days away I couldn’t do it. The hikers all look the same. Incredibly lean like a marathon runner. And the guys all have huge beards. They remind me of the kid on Into the Wild.

We went out to pack our bikes at 7 and found Peter’s rear tire nearly flat. He noticed several thorns and pulled one out. That caused another leak and the sealant wasn’t taking care of it. He worked away and tried to plug it with bacon without success; the hole was too small. After pumping air in several times trying to get a seal he ended up adding more sealant and that did the trick. It sure makes you feel good that the preparation made a difference.

We started riding at 8 and that was fine because we didn’t plan to ride as far as yesterday. We knew talking to another rider at the Toaster House headed north that we wouldn’t find reliable water until 160 km. Our goal was to get close enough that we could evaluate our water at camp and potentially delay breakfast (oatmeal/coffee) until we got there.

It was another great day weather wise. It was cold enough to start with a coat but that came off quickly and there was no need for the winter gloves. After a couple hours we met a hiker so we stopped and talked for a few minutes. This lady was hiking solo and 69 years old. She said she no longer can do the distances of a 20 or 30 year old but she routinely hikes 12-15 miles per day and she’s doing the trail in sections with her husband picking her up. We both were impressed and wished her well.

I’m very happy that the scenery has continued to change and we’ve been spending time in forests. I enjoyed the time in the deep desert but I think I’d tire of it if we had to continue. It’s challenging enough worrying about water but out there you see no one and feel incredibly isolated.

The morning riding was very scenic. We did pass a small pond that we could have taken water but it was early and I’d only started my first bottle. We each had 6 L to start the day. We passed a lot of ranches and some ruins of either old settlements or old farm buildings. We also had some climbing this morning but it was in the forest and wasn’t that significant compared to other climbs we’ve done.

We stopped for lunch under some trees and thinking about our water we made sure to eat something not requiring any rehydration.

The afternoon riding was on a rougher surface (more washboard) and we got dusted a lot more by passing vehicles. Some were great slowing right down before going by us. That makes a huge difference because you don’t get the trailing cloud of dust. With others we weren’t so lucky.

I was dreaming of a cold drink. Yet another trail angel.

At just after 3 a truck was approaching and going very slowly. They rolled their window down and asked if we were okay and if we had enough water. At that point we each had 2 L, plus what was in our drinking bottles up front. We knew we’d be okay but we love having some margin. I said we were okay unless they had a jug on the go. They both jumped out and the guy got in his cooler and dug out 4 bottles for us. Then he hands us each 2 beers. It was so nice! We talked with them for a bit and learned they were elk hunting guides. They were really friendly and before they left he grabbed a water bladder with another 2 L and filled more bottles.

I downed one of the cold water bottles straight away and then said let’s have a beer now while they are cold. This did break my no alcohol streak but it felt absolutely worth it sitting in the warm sun after riding 90 km and enjoying a beer. It reminds me in some way of the guys sitting on the roof drinking a beer after some hard work on Shawshank Redemption.

After the beer admittedly the rest of the ride seemed to drag on further than the 16 km we logged. The terrain changed to ponderosa forest again and we saw two female elk which was exciting. Earlier in the day we saw more pronghorns. And we saw a herd of goats as well.

We arrived at camp at almost 6 pm and got set up quickly. It’s a luxury having enough water that we could eat a dehydrated meal and have breakfast tomorrow morning without fear of running out of water. While eating we could hear the elk making loud calls. And now in my tent I hear either coyotes or fox making a lot of noise. We are most definitely still far away from anything.

Tomorrow we’ll ride to the water source and hopefully arrive there by 9 or 10 AM and likely log 100 km. We only have 375 km left so we won’t have to do long days to finish in 4 days. Our last day will likely be 75 km based on there being a small town where we can sleep.

Another good day. I’m tired.

Highlights:

-Peter’s tire sealing with major work

-Great scenery

-seeing the elk and pronghorns

-the two cold beers and the generosity of strangers

-another nice wild camping spot

Elk - 2 (female)

Pronghorns - 20?

Alcohol - 2

Distance - 118 km / 1125 m elevation gain

Today's ride: 118 km (73 miles)
Total: 4,107 km (2,550 miles)

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