To Talarn: Over Port de Perves

September 28, 2017

The last few days have taken a bit out of us, and we have some challenging days ahead as we cross over into France. We're taking it easy today - short, relaxed, just the one obligatory pass - a virtual rest day.

Breakfast was announced last night as starting at 8 in our hotel - unusually early for the region. That was just an approximation though - it wasn't really available for another half hour. When it came, it had an odd presentation: a few slices of toast and a large pitcher of juice arrived, and we started in thinking this might be it but hoping there might be coffee. A few minutes later, a plate of meats and cheeses. A few minutes later, some tasty warm croissants. Finally, after we were almost done with what ended up being a generous spread, she took our coffee requests.

We didn't hit the road until nearly eleven and we're surprised to find that it was still cold outside when we weren't in the sun. As was the case for the first several miles of the road, as we biked up a narrow valley not yet lit by the sun. We kept wondering if we should layer up, when at last the sun broke the rim of the canyon and quickly warmed us up.

The climb to Port de Perves, factoring in the loss and gain between its two summits, totals to about two thousand feet. It's not a bad climb, with only about a two mile stretch that breaks seven percent. Still, it's enough - I'm definitely feeling the need for an easier day. I wonder how I'll hold up in the series of harder days to come.

It's chilly when we start the ride, following a stream east up this narrow canyon. The sun didn't make it over the canyon wall until after 11.

On the climb away from El Pont de Suert. Finally the sun is high enough to impart some warmth on the road.

Looking back to the northwest as we near the summit.

Hydration break at the pre-summit. Looks like she's chatting on her phone, doesn't it?

At the real summit. Pretty busy name - it barely fits on the sign.

The ascent to Perves was pleasant but not especially dramatic. The descent down the east side though was exhilarating, as we zipped down several miles of spaghetti road through a series of tight hairpins. One of the most fun descents of the trip, with one exception - hen we were stopped at one point for a photo break I realized my lens cap was missing. Presumably it was dropped at the last photostop, three or four switchbacks above us - close enough to be worth considering, for an item important enough to be worth the work. So, I biked back up the pass for about a half mile; but it was an exercise in futility. Hopefully I can find a replacement in a camera shop somewhere, but I'm not optimistic. I'll just have to be careful not to damage the lens for the next several weeks.

The south facing wall at the summit was crawling with tiny lizards, about two inches long. A pretty difficult photography subject - as soon as you spot one, it dashes into the shade or a crevice between the stones. I'm pretty sure I saw a green one also, but Rachael lost patience with me so I couldn't wait any longer.

Looking down from the summit on the village of Perves

Rachael on the spaghetti descent from Port de Perves. I'm standing at the spot I thought I lost the lens cap, which I discovered was missing at about the farthest spot the road is visible below. I biked back up looking for it, but without success.

I lost count, but we passed through at least six tunnels, all short, on today's ride.

Down from the pass, we continued coasting toward our planned lunch stop at Pobla en Segur. It was a bit early for lunch though, so we marked time for a bit by turning off onto Route 503 for a few miles. This is one of the access roads into Aiguestortes National Park, another worthy-looking destination. I considered routing us that way in this tour, but lodging options are pretty rare. It looks like it would be a great ride if you were camping though.

The few miles we rode here were very pleasant, but the most interesting feature was passing through the village Pobleta de Bellvei. The narrow street was crowded, alive with midday diners and their dogs. More interesting though we're all the signs and flags supporting Catalonia's vote on independence. The election is this Sunday, and is of course highly controversial. We've been wondering what it would be like to be here at this time, and even if there is a threat of violence.

At about 2:30 we arrived in La Pobla en Segur and poked around its center looking for the most promising spot for lunch. We're eating here because we aren't really sure what we'll find this evening in Talarn. We did very well, finding a very satisfying bar/restaurant with an appealing menu.

Entering the tiny village of La Pobleta de Bellvei. The yellow and red sash is in support of Catalonian independence - the vote is this Sunday.

Stringing up Catalonian flags in preparation for the coming vote.

On D503, one of the access roads to Aiguestortes National Park. We road up it for a few miles to check it out, and turned back when it was time for lunch.

In La Pobla de Segur, our lunch stop for the day

We ate here, and enjoyed a delicious lunch - one of our favorite meals of the tour. Rachael had cannelloni and I had gaspacho to start, and then we both had lomo with pesto sauce. That and two glasses of wine set us back 21 euros.

Talarn is a very smalll hilltown just outside of much larger Tremp. I don't recall now what led me to book a room here rather than Tremp, but it's certainly very quiet. We're staying in what is essentially a youth hostel, although we have our own room. The town is an ancient place, as is the building the hostel occupies. According to our host, it was built in 1060 an was used as a convent for many years. Our room is on the second floor, and our window opens onto the wall of the adjacent building. The eaves shelter half a dozen gently cooing doves, causing me to wonder if our sleep will be disrupted by them tonight.

For dinner we elect the bar-restaurant across the street from the hostel. It's an Italian place, and we order a salad and a plate of spaghetti to share. As our server warned us, both were huge. It was a great meal - together with lunch, this was probably the best eating day of the trip. We enjoyed our meal on the outside deck overlooking the valley, watching the sun go down, the moon ascend, and a few bats spasmotically flit through the sky.

Here's Rachael's video of the descent from Perves.

Total elevation gain: today, 3,800'; for the tour, 49,900'